Eneos Sustina 0W20 6,646 8,917 13 FRS

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Is there a VOA on this oil?

Would be great if you could trend this one out (more UOA) and see how well it does. Maybe it'll be good to 10k?
 
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Its tough to gauge wear in such a new engine but this oil looks good and appeared to hold up just fine. I would go with M1 0w20 because it is more proven and a little cheaper but looks like this stuff can do 8k OCI's.
 
Why would you not use TGMO? The 0W20 is an awesome oil. High VI and a great additive package.
 
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Engine is still breaking in so I wouldn't be too concerned with wear metals at this point. The 6.7 cSt seems low but I believe this oil is a bit thinner then most 0W-20's (upper 7.X range new).
 
I'm going to assume the 575 Zinc is a Blackstone error...

I can't seem to dig up a VOA on this oil to compare either.
 
This engine is still breaking in.
Silicon leaching out of the RTV gasket materials alone tells you that.
I wouldn't be worried.
 
Thanks for posting! Looks ok considering the driving conditions in this direct injected high revving engine, IMO.

Now tell us about your engine mods. Is this about right for the ECUTek?

Increased TQ Limits
Adjusted overall AFR Mixture
Optimized Timing
Optimized Cam Angles
Added 2Step Launch Control
Increased REV Limit
Speed Governor Removed

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If the Si doesn't drop after a couple more oil changes (you've already had a few), it could be from your CAI. Will be very curious to see the next uoa so please post it!

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-Dennis
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Looks like Eneos Sustina 0W20 is not an extended drain oil in this Toyota. I would not go much more than 8k miles.

Attached is a 10,000 mile UOA in a Hyundai:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2757852&page=1

I said "this Toyota", I didn't say "Eneos Sustina 0W20 is not an extended drain oil in any engine". I should say "this Toyota and this driving condition".

TBN is down to 2.0 after only 6650 miles, it may be down to below 1.0 at 10k miles.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: tig1
You might want to switch over to M1 0-20.

Why?


For a new Toyota I4, using M1 0-20 will give equal performance IMV, very easy to purchase, and cost probably is less if that is a factor.
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: tig1
You might want to switch over to M1 0-20.

Why?


For a new Toyota I4, using M1 0-20 will give equal performance IMV, very easy to purchase, and cost probably is less if that is a factor.

It won't give equal performance since it's a heavier oil and massively so on start-up plus it's more shear prone. If one wants to run an oil with greater high temp' protection (I'm not saying it's necessary for street use) than the spec' high VI 0W-20 simply add a pint or two of M1 0W-40. This will give you a higher HTHSV than M1 while still being lighter on start-up.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: tig1
You might want to switch over to M1 0-20.

Why?


For a new Toyota I4, using M1 0-20 will give equal performance IMV, very easy to purchase, and cost probably is less if that is a factor.

It won't give equal performance since it's a heavier oil and massively so on start-up plus it's more shear prone. If one wants to run an oil with greater high temp' protection (I'm not saying it's necessary for street use) than the spec' high VI 0W-20 simply add a pint or two of M1 0W-40. This will give you a higher HTHSV than M1 while still being lighter on start-up.


All those numbers are interesting, but frankly I really don't know the differance when I see them. To say one 0-20 oil is "massively" better than any other is well, interesting also. I guess the only way to really know is to run one oil against another under equal terms, for lets say 200K (miles not KMs) and tear down the engines. I for one, don't see any reason to mix oils, as todays oils are so efficient their's one for every type of engine. However no harm either.
 
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