Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: beanoil
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
If you are planning to take this bike on the highway then you better off with synthetic. You will be operating in its high rev range on the highway.
Oh boy, more hearsay. The Ninja 250 has a 14k rpm redline. Even if you are turning 6k at highway speeds, this is not in it's "high rev range" (what ever that is), but at less than half of it's max rpm, and most likely near the meat of the powerband. Synthetic is NOT necessary unless you have temperature extremes. As said, if you are riding in the Alaska winter, grab the blue bottle. For any reasonable temperature, white bottle is more than adequate. Both oils are going to shear from the shared sump, so a change every 3 or 4 thousand is probably good practice.
You either really bad in math, ride like granny, or don't know jack about the Ninja 250R. The 250R top speed is 110mph close to the redline (14K) so if you do 80mph (75mph speed limit) on the highway you are above 10K. Realistically, if you have ridden a 250R then you would know that at 80mph you are closer to 11K than 10K rpm. Here in Arizona the temperature is north of average and I usually do closer to 90mph on I-10 or I-8 to California. Who in their right mind would buy oil for reasonable temperature, below speed limit, half the rpm range riding conditions?
Moot point. The bike is liquid cooled. It will operate in a specified temperature range which can be handled by any decent HDEO.
Many air cooled two cycle engines spin just as fast, generate much more heat and don't have the benefit of liquid cooling. Some how they seem to survive with scant amounts of dino two cycle oil mixed with their fuel.
A liquid cooled engine running in an oil bath or pressurized oil system is in the lap of luxury compared to a two cycle engine.
The Ninja will be just fine with any quality HDEO.