0w20 vs 5w30?
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I think the problem is that many of the API 10W-30's are also loaded with VII, if Mobil's examples are any indication
As I've said before, the narrower spreads just allow the companies to use cheaper bases and increase profits. This is compounded by grades like 10W-30 being obsolete and not having to be approved for things like dexos if we are talking PCMO applications.
While offerings from boutique companies will indeed leverage the same high dollar base oils in their narrower spreads (AMSOIL SS, HPL, Redline...etc), decreasing VII content, that's unlikely with any of the majors who, as long as they can meet the performance requirements, will gladly just use a cheaper base oil blend and the same VII content as they do with a 5W-30 for example.
So...... In plain English does this mean that Full Synthetic 0W-30 is a better quality oil lubrication wise, than the same oil in a 10W-30 grade?
The only way you have even a remote prayer of having anything covered under warranty is if you restore it to the same configuration it left the factory before you take it in for service. Once they see your mods then it’s all on you.
I think this may be true for conventional oils, but historically, I don’t think any oil does worse than M1 0W30 from a viscosity loss standpoint. Even M1 10W30 would be an upgrade.I think the problem is that many of the API 10W-30's are also loaded with VII, if Mobil's examples are any indication
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As I've said before, the narrower spreads just allow the companies to use cheaper bases and increase profits. This is compounded by grades like 10W-30 being obsolete and not having to be approved for things like dexos if we are talking PCMO applications.
While offerings from boutique companies will indeed leverage the same high dollar base oils in their narrower spreads (AMSOIL SS, HPL, Redline...etc), decreasing VII content, that's unlikely with any of the majors who, as long as they can meet the performance requirements, will gladly just use a cheaper base oil blend and the same VII content as they do with a 5W-30 for example.
OVERKILL
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Just depends on how it is formulated. A lot of folks think that if they go with a narrower spread, they are avoiding VII, but you don't need a lot of VII to make a cheap base thicker, and that keeps the formulation cost down. If all things were equal, then yes, going from a 0W-30 to a 10W-30 or 15W-30, within a given slate of base oils, you will incrementally reduce VII content, like shown here by Mobil:
In reality though, they aren't blended that way. A readily available example are the Castrol 0W-40 and 5W-40 siblings. The 0W-40 is around 50% PAO, the 5W-40 has none. Why? Because Castrol could skip the PAO once they didn't have to worry about meeting the 0W-xx Winter rating, as PAO is expensive.
Here's a 5W-30 with 11.74% VII:
Yet the PAO/Yubase blended 0W-30 here has only 5.7% and the 0W-40 has almost the same VII content as the 5W-40 shown earlier:
So, to answer your question, "it depends". In all likelihood, the 0W-30 is going to carry dexos and maybe some other approvals that the 10W-30 won't, so you do have the added benefit of additional performance requirements placed on the 0W-30.
OVERKILL
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The problem is that we don't have a lot of GC data to show us that viscosity loss isn't being driven by fuel, since most of the examples on this site are from Blackstone. That's why I've been imploring people to start using Polaris/OAI or other labs that do properly measure fuel, as then it's easy to look at it and be like, well, there's only 0.5% fuel here and it has dropped into the 20-range, that's clearly mechanical shear.
Historically, we've had Paul Reshear running down the cobblestones screaming "the shear is here!" at the top of his lungs when we see a big hit in visc on a Blackstone UOA and nobody points out that the flashpoint is at 385F and that fuel may be a more significant driver.
Typically, blenders strive for a balance between visc loss and oxidation, so that those two things roughly balance each other out. You introduce fuel and that changes things.
My oil cap says 0w-16, so i drained it and poured in 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP. I don't believe in 0w motor oil.
If only there was such a thing.
I just checked, and I have 4 jugs of 0W-30 Mobil 1 on hand. So that's what she's going to get every 6 months, for the next 2 years. After that I'll reevaluate. Perhaps by then another miracle oil will have hit the market.
Schaffers ultimate for $20/quart!
Shel_B
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Would you say that of M1 ESP 0W-30?
ESP 0W30 is a different product altogether. I was referring to the API spec AFE 0W30.
Shel_B
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Thanks. Just needed clarification.
OVERKILL
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M1 0W-30 was my oil of choice for our old Expedition. It didn't consume, offered great winter performance and was readily available.
What’s wrong with rat 504??
There are likely hundreds of posts on that topic here with several long and technically detailed threads. Perhaps find and read some of those for that information. Bottom line is that it’s complete and utter nonsense with no value or worth whatsoever. The website is garbage.
I'd go with specified cold rating and not worry much about the operating temperature one. Driving style determines the later.
Redline 0w20 is my first choice because it’s 9.1 at 100C vs 8.33 on the QS Fully Synthetic.
HT/HS is where it's at...not KV @100C. Forget about KV @ 100C.
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