0w-30 safe in an engine spec'd for 5w-20?

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Originally Posted By: Firehawk409
i doubt the car feels more responsive going from a 30 to a 20.

So would I, but it's been that way every time I've gone from an Xw-30 to Xw-20 in the Honda (QS 5w-30 and two rounds of M1 0w-30). It's unnoticeable on the highway, but in the city there is a change in feel.

My shifting sucked when going to the 30. I rev match, and the rpm dropped more quickly with the thicker oil so that I had to make a conscious effort to shift more quickly or blip the gas sooner. This was less pronounced as the engine warmed up.

On the other hand, the engine was a heck of a lot quieter above 4,000 rpm at WOT when warm. That's one reason I tried the 0w-30 a second time. I definitely don't beat on my car. But sometimes I'll go WOT to pass someone or avoid death on a freeway merge. The engine sounds a bit like a motorcycle with 0w-20 and 5w-20 at higher rpms, and it sounded like a car with the heavier stuff.

I dunno. Maybe I was misunderstanding the whole 0w concept, as it seems it doesn't make much of a difference if you don't live on Hoth. I've seen posts where people got flamed for calling an oil "free-revving." But that's what the lighter grades feel like in my Civic.

Free-revving, responsive, louder-at-high-rpm, etc.: M1 0w-20, Pennz YB 5w-20, PP 5w-20, QS 5w-20 (dealer bulk).

Tight, muted, measured, quieter-at-high-rpm, etc.: M1 0w-30, QS 5w-30.

I guess I'm at the end of the viscosity experimentation phase on the Honda. Now I get to obsess about the brand of oil instead. By the time I'm ready to drop the current fill maybe the engine will have worn in enough for the UOA phase to start.
 
Well I changed my oil yesterday. I dumped the Motorcraft 5W-20 and refilled with Motorcraft 5W-20. This discussion has moved me to consider the use of a higher viscosity because I intend to keep the car for a long time. By the same token, I figure there is no harm or neglect towards my engine by following the manufacture's specs. The sad part is that I misread my log book and dumped the oil with only 2600 miles on it.
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I hate throwing money away. Oh well, there is nice fresh oil in there for the long road trip next week. The other sad part is I am actually elated that gas prices have dropped down to the extremely low price of $3.88 a gallon just in time. Heck, I might even be able to budget in a round of mimi-golf with the kids.
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Originally Posted By: quick_16
Originally Posted By: tropic
In a nutshell: am I doing any harm to my engine by running a 0w-30 motor oil rather than the 5w-20 Honda specs in the U.S.?


I used Wally-world Super Tech 5W-20 on my 1st fill just a few months ago. 2008 Fit. It's was like $2/qt. Buddy of mine is a Honda Master Mech and swears by it. I'll test it soon and find out. I asked him about using 0W-xx oil and he said not a good idea. Said the clearances are designed for it and you'r taking a pretty good risk.

Unless you have some data that proves it save lots of fuel, I'd look harder for an affordable decent 5W-20


Let us know how that UOA looks. My girlfriend just bought her Fit about 6 weeks ago and now has 1200 miles on it. Factory fill oil will stay in until about 4500 miles or so and I am undecided what oil to use next. I have a stock-pile of 49 cent after MIR Shell 5w30 from Checker , but will likely figure out a 0w20 or 5w20 to use.
 
20 and 30 products are so close in final visc it's silly. The difference in cold visc between 0w-30 and any w-20 or 30 is almost non-existant.
 
BrewcityR I will post it in the UOA area. I'm at 7500 and oil life meter says 70% left hmmm. I dumped my factory fill at 4800 or so. It's one here under UOA. I think I'll take this fill to 7000 delta. With the P&G and FAS the run time is small for the miles lol At the time I did my 1st change I asked on here and the feeling was Motercrap was a good low end oil. I have run lots of the Shell Clean (other strret car) and it's good stuff. In fact amazing for the $$$'s.

Got 55mpg every day this week in my Fit. 53 for the tank so far. I want to break my 530mile range and get a 600 mile tank.

Back on topic. A simple mans test. I shook a bottle of 0w-20 and the 5W-20 and I could tell the diff easy. The 0 sounded like water and the 5w sounded like 3-n-1 oil lol. To each his own. I follow the OEM book for now. It clearly says 5W-20 plus my Master Honda mech recomended it.
 
I've run 30 weight in my CR-V most of its life. The first year I owned it new in 2002, I couldn't find 20 weight anywhere. Fianlly Autozone began stocking 0W20 M1 in my area in about mid 2003. So I ran that and M15W20 until I became a bitogger and insanely addicted to closeout oil. Since I never find any in 20 weight, I've run 30 weights in my Honda again since 05. I'm at around 95k on it now. Never had a hiccup from the engine and I never noticed any gain in FE while runing the 20 weights. Now, if I didn't like to buy closeout oil, M1 0W20 would be my oil of choice.
 
Originally Posted By: FrankN4

2005 was my last high mileage year. According to my records, I changed oil and filter 8 times and transmission fluid and filter 1 time. This cost me $257.05. I consider that reasonable for 100% mechanical reliability and peace o mind.


Not to mention what many including myself find to be a truly enjoyable relaxing hobby. These days with modern cars' complexity and ability to go long miles without maintenance, it seems like fluid and filter changes are some of the few remaining opportunities to share quality time with your beloved vehicle while spinning wrenches. This is why I think detailing has become so popular.
 
I own a 2005 Mazda RX8 (Rotary 1.3l engine) and it says to use 5w-20 only. I am stationed overseas, and finding that oil here is impossible. However, I can get 0w-30 no problem. My question is, does anyone know if that, or another, oil is ok to use in my vehicle? Keep in mind, it's rotary. Does this make it a big deal, or is it safe? Thanks in advance.
 
the lower the viscosity the lower the bearing temperature and the cooler everything stays because of better flow (less restrictive)
Bottom line is if the engine manufacture recommends 5w20 use it because that engine was built for that viscosity and they can and will void the warrantee
We have a 2007 dodge hyundai that the owner used 20w50 oil and it now needs a crank weld and grind and bearings under 25,000 miles..
The bearings show they were oil starved.. This car was not abused but loved to death per say customer thought the thick the oil the better the protection WRONG!
 
Originally Posted By: quick_16
BrewcityR I will post it in the UOA area. I'm at 7500 and oil life meter says 70% left hmmm. I dumped my factory fill at 4800 or so. It's one here under UOA. I think I'll take this fill to 7000 delta. With the P&G and FAS the run time is small for the miles lol At the time I did my 1st change I asked on here and the feeling was Motercrap was a good low end oil. I have run lots of the Shell Clean (other strret car) and it's good stuff. In fact amazing for the $$$'s.

Got 55mpg every day this week in my Fit. 53 for the tank so far. I want to break my 530mile range and get a 600 mile tank.

Back on topic. A simple mans test. I shook a bottle of 0w-20 and the 5W-20 and I could tell the diff easy. The 0 sounded like water and the 5w sounded like 3-n-1 oil lol. To each his own. I follow the OEM book for now. It clearly says 5W-20 plus my Master Honda mech recomended it.


I am jealous about your 55mpg readings. I thought I was doing good when I was getting 45.54 @ 63.5 mph/2300 rpms 5w-30 Pennzoil yellow bottle on a 1400 mile trip in my Saturn. At 55 mpg you are soundly beating the Yaris, Rio, heck everything on the market. Are you driving strictly 55mph, windows up, turning engine off at every stop or what? Inquiring minds want to know.
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