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I'm the proud owner of 2 German vehicles and and concerned about oil as is anyone who is viewing this on this site. Both my Audi's are v6 30 valve engines, with one being NA (2.8l) and the other being a twin turbo variant(2.7t). I experimented with oil on the 2.8 since it doesn't require a 502...

I get extra engine noise out of both my Audi's if I run M1 0w-40. If I stick to GC 0w-30 then the engines are smooth and quiet. I live in a northern climate so not dealing with the extreme heat, but it is 90F this weekend and they are still quiet on the the GC.

A 2.0l 4 banger with 500 hp. I wouldn't run the shear prone M1 either. I'm thinking a 5w40 oil like RT6 or various other Euro speced oils out there where the HTHS # is strong.

Not crazy. With the exception of a 4.0l Ford V6, I have found M1 to make all my engines more noisy. The 2 best oils I have found for smoothness and quietness are GC and Amsoil Euro in my German cars. PP or PU in domestics.

That oil should have been changed out about 5k miles ago. Only a UOA will tell for sure, but your taking a chance on hurting a perfectly good motor. If you do get a UOA make sure you post it. Will be very interesting to see the results.

A 5w-xx or 0w-xx oil would be better for cold winter starts, but running 10w30 is not bad and is not your problem. You didn't mention the year, but check this out and do some diagnostics for battery drain: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/118vt-03-lincoln-navigator-just-put-new-battery.html

Don't forget about RT6. It's not a Mobil product, but a great syn diesel oil for good price. One other thing to consider is what happens if one of your customers has a engine failure? They will probably come after you with a blood sucking lawyer so some sort of insurance will be a good idea...

Tacoma sounds fine on the M1, but extend the OCI based on the results of the UOA. My guess is you could easy go 8k mile OCI's, but that depends on driving style and UOA result. Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra is a favorite around here, so if you wanted to change then go for one of them. The BMW...

I've used M1 products in 3 different cars with different results. In a 4.0l equipped Ford Explorer I ran M1 5-30 for 8k mile OCI's with no problems and the engine didn't seem to know the difference. The oil seemed awfully thin when it came out, but all was good. In a 2.8l equipped Audi I ran...

Is this for the 2011 Jetta? Hard to believe it is out of warranty, so must be a different VW. Can you get some GC or Castrol 5w-40 or RT6 if is out of warranty.

So you will support GM with their charging to put a 'dexos1' label on oil bottles that already meet the specs anyway, but won't use Amsoil due to their tier system? Just run some PP in a weight that suits your climate and driving conditions/style and stop being so paranoid with the rules. BTW...

Originally Posted By: gvken I have 4 qts of Castrol Syntec 5w40, by car takes 8 qts. Is it safe to mix brands of the same weight? Say 4 qts of Syntec and 4 qts of Penzoil Ultra of the same weight? Can't find Syntec anymore since they switched to Castrol Edge.... RT6 would be a better choice...

Originally Posted By: eljefino There is no need to change oil just because it was sitting on a lot for six months. The reason for the "or X months" interval is if you use something every day for short trip driving and don't rack up the miles. Then you get byproducts of cold engine combustion...

Why would anyone who spends thousands of dollars on a turbo vehicle even think about going cheap on oil to save a few bucks. Just run good syn and be confident that you are running the best oil for a turbo. Nuff said!

Don't cheap out on the oil with the 3.0l engine. They are cam eaters and if you haven't replaced a cam yet, you will. Stick with a VW502 approved oil like GC or M1 0w-40 to maximize life and avoid long OCI's. They don't cost any more than other syn oils and can be found for $6/qt on sale. RT6...

Pretty much worthless gauge hence the term idiot light or idiot gauge. In Fords defense there are other vehicle makes that do the same thing. Gauge never moves regardless if hot or cold, idling or at redline.

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL Does this engine require a BMW spec oil? Does the Pennzoil Ultra meet that spec? The Mobil 1 oil guide says to use their 0w40 in it, which has an HTHS greater than 3.5 and meets the BMW LL-01 spec. +1 Technically you should probably be running a 'Euro' approved...

Just keep using GC. You have great UOAs on it. It is still available just hard to find right now. Castrol is changing the bottles to all be called 'Edge' now, so it is just the switchover that is making it scarce. If not GC then use M1 0w40, which is just as good. Stick with Euro specs as that...

IIRC GC 0w-30 has little to no vii's in it so may fit the bill and still leave you with a multi-weight oil.

Both my Audi's have oil temp gauges. Generally it takes 8+ min of driving just to get the needle to move off the minimum 150F reading on the gauge. Coolant temp gauge is already to normal temp by this time. It takes another 5-10 min to reach normal operating oil temp on the gauge. Basically I...