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I just found PU at my local Walmart on a clearance cart. $21 for the 5 qt jug. I bought all they had. Why are they clearing house of PU?

I'm glad I found this thread! I just got a 2011 Ridgeline and was debating on the FF OCI. After that UOA! No debate. I am a PP user and will probably do the suggested 2k change of the Factory Fill and use PYB for two-3k changes before I use PP for my longer intervals. I plan on passing this...

Thanks Jim! I have given the block heater much thought in the past and look to purchase one in the near future. It totally makes sense about the open loop scenario as it pertains to my short, cold trips.

sounds great!

I would need to try something else in a full syn because for some reason, no one sells the full syn except the dealer in this area. At least I haven't found it in any stores.

Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe That car wasn't specified to run 5W-20, was it? This is a 2003 TL. Owner's manual and the oil cap state "5W20"

What do you guys recommend? Running 6000 then doing a UOA or running 7500 and a UOA

I was thinking 6-6500 miles. If I am spending the extra money on synthetic oil, I want to know if I am changing it too early so I can get the most out of it.

Yea, that's just it. I make some very short trips. The moisture is rarely evaporated from the oil. Especially in the late fall and winter months. The big problem is I work 24 hours and I am off 48 hours etc... so the truck sits 24 hours every three days. The driving habits will always be the same.

76000 miles on the car. I ran PP the previous oil change. The change before that I ran M1 EP. Always use PureONE filters.

It's funny you should ask. I changed it on the Nov 30th, same day as the oil. It looked pretty rough. Totally makes sense. Thanks

This along with the Acura post, this was my first run of reports. The fuel dilution scares me. As they stated city driving, which is my bread and butter, could be the cause. I take trips on the average of 3-6 miles. In the winter, the truck doesn't even get completely warm. I have the tan cream...

Mostly city driving, about 12 mile trips. This is my first uoa. I wanted to extend my drain intervals. What do you guys think?

Hello, I ride a 2006 YZ450F and I will be switching to Rotella 15W40. Does this oil do well in comparison to the expensive Motorcycle specific oils? I am worried about the shear stability when it comes to the combined sump. I need to educate myself a bit more when it comes to the uoa's because I...

Thanks! Great information. This site rocks!

These oils won't cause clutch slippage?

I am sick of using the expensive "motorcycle Only" oils for my bike. I have a 2006 Yamaha Yz450F and I ride pretty aggressively. It calls for a Jaso Ma rated oil due to the wet clutch. Is there a cheaper alternative? I've heard a lot of buzz about the shell rotella 15w40. Is this ok for a wet...

I currently use the motorcraft Fl-820S filter. I don't want to stray from the 5w20 because the variable cam timing operates on oil pressure and damage could result from a thicker oil. (I had the VCT phasers replaced when I bought the truck, Free of course). I may try the PP and see what...

I have a 2004 F150 with 38,000 miles. I recently switched to YB at my last change. The modular ford engines were notorious for leaking down the oil during the long sit times, therefore they would experience a dry start-up. My Ford also suffers that problem. The cam chain tensioners leak down oil...

Thanks Jim, Where in Ohio do you live? I do currently use Motorcraft 5W20. The Walmart on 37 has it in 5qt jugs for $12.50! They are currently out of course. I also have been using the Motorcraft filter (also a great value at Walmart). I think I am experiencing cam chain tensioner leak down...