Polyolester basestock or PAO/Ester combo

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What re the differences in a Polyolester basestock or PAO/Ester combo.

Is it true that Amsoil is not a Polyolester basestock oil and this makes it not as good as Redline?
 
I was also told that Redline use a ton of organic molybdenum compaed to Amsoil. Is that true? Does Moly still have a bad name amoung some people?
 
I was also told that Mobil 1 and Amsoil are about as close as you can get to each other. Both are about 85% PAO based.

Where REdline is very different to the two.

Was also told that Amsoil's known problem is oxidative thickenning.

Tell me people are there any truths to these?
 
Mobil1 and Amsoil almost the exact same, not so sure.

Redline is a Polyolester based oil and great in super hard running apps and decent on the street once cleaned out. But not as long lived on street engines as Amsoil.

I have seen numerous reports of Amsoil thickening out of grade instead of shearing out of grade lower where Mobil1 does not so they are not the same.

Recent examples do not seem to thicken as much.


All are good.
 
I found all that info from typing in Polyolester basestock on google and going through a few pages.

I change my oil often (I go by colour) so it would be lucky to see 2000kms. It's in a 350 Chev flat tappet cam with Roller rockers.

Now I was under the belif that while I'm changing it so often there is no benift to go for a Synthetic oil, but latey I have been reading some info from well respected engine builders that are telling me that the high end syn oils are the go. So this is why I'm asking.
 
Whoah....hold on a sec.

POE's (Polyol esters) are the best base stocks you can use for high temperature situations. This is why they are the only base stocks that can withstand Jet Engines. You have to use some PAO though in the blend to offset seal swell for passenger cars. All of the reps I've spoken with said POE's are overkill for passenger car motor oils. ex.(Redline)

Amsoil is a primarily PAO based oil (possibly some Grp III IMO) with esters. They don't use POE's though. IMO, Amsoil's approach makes more sense for long drains and driving conditions most of us experience. Also more economical.

You can make a great oil with any base stock if formulated properly.
 
You would be foolish to waste syn oil on frequent oil changes. Usually syn oil are a waste of money unless your engine manufacture recommends syn oil .The advantage of syn oils is they standup to heat better and cold better. POA is really a copy of an oil molecule I just can't get real exited about pao's unless it is super freezing cold. Polyolester and diesters stand up to heat better and have some interesting properties over pao base stocks. Using syn oil is usually like using a 20 meter rope to get you out of a 3 meter hole ,lots of uneeded rope .Lets all hope moly is good because most of the oil brands use it with great success. All the oils are good .They have somewhat different properties and advantages.You pay your money and you get your choices. Where synthetics are worth the extra $$$ is in the trans and differential. Except Delo esi gear lube is the one oil to use in the differential if you don't want to use syn.in the differential.
 
Ewetho says it pretty well.

steves
"Lets all hope moly is good because most of the oil brands use it with great success"

It is.

Buster "You can make a great oil with any base stock if formulated properly."
Whoa.. Got to disagree with you there.
 
Francis.
Tell me more about this high end syn's being the go.
Must be an aussie term.
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Steve is correct. Synthetics are only needed for severe high temps/cold/long drain intervals.

salesrep, I should have said other than group I. Havoline is a Group II+.
 
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