- Dyson Analysis
Customer Name : Dyson Analysis Test Oil Brand/Weight : Redline 10w-30
Type Equipment : 01'Toyota Avalon 3.0L V6 Miles/Hours on oil : 7000
Total Miles/Hours : 42065
Results ppm/% Comments (blank=normal)
Wear
Copper 10
Iron 12
Chromium 0
Lead 2
Aluminum 4
Silicon 7
Tin 5
Additives
Molybdenum 693
Sodium 13
Magnesium 18
Zinc 1678
Potassium 5
Phosphorus 1574
Calcium 4731
Physical Properties
Water negative
Fuel negative
Antifreeze negative
Soot 153 Host oil is being read as a solid. NA
Oxidation 33 17%
Nitration 22%
Sulfur 24
TBN 9
Vis@100 C 10.1 30w
Final Comments : This is a consolidated(mutilple lab) test with a 50/50 mix of in town and highway driving.
MPG affected somewhat by vis stability of Redline. No precursers of sludge formation detected.
oil filter Motorcraft FL-793, original Toyo air filter. Nil,0 oil consumed. Capacity 5 qts.
Terry
[ December 05, 2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
01' Toyota Avalon 3.0L V6/Redline 10w-30
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That's a nice, clean result after 7,000 miles ...especially from an engine known to really tear up oil. Thanks for posting.
--- Bror Jace
--- Bror Jace
Thanks for the post. I always enjoy looking at them.
***
Thanks for posting the Redline analysis. It looks like this oil works very well in this engine. Do you have an estimation of when would be a good time to change it? It seems as if
there is a fair amount of service life left in it.
After mulling over the specs and formulation of Redline and knowing a bit of how the Toyota V6 is hard on oil, I decided to use it. I started out with the 10W-30 but went over the the 5W-30 when the fuel economy was poorer with the former. It was a seat of the pants decision, but it looks like I was lucky to be reasonably accurate. The engine was run on Mobil 1 before. I will be sending in some of the 5W-30 (third round on this oil) for analysis pretty soon. I've been changing at 5K until I have had enough information to safely go further.
What is this 'oil extreme' additive?
Thanks again!
slider, this is your car?
Knowing what we know about Toyotas, I wouldn't push it. If it were my car I'd use 7,000 miles (OK, maybe 7,500) as a good, safe drain interval.
These motors are thoroughly thrashing some "conventional" oils in less than 3,000 miles.
--- Bror Jace
Knowing what we know about Toyotas, I wouldn't push it. If it were my car I'd use 7,000 miles (OK, maybe 7,500) as a good, safe drain interval.
These motors are thoroughly thrashing some "conventional" oils in less than 3,000 miles.
--- Bror Jace
Slider, have you been driving this test vehicle without permission !
Your seat of the pants was accurate, the HTHS value of redline is incredibly stable, acting like a thicker oil at stress points under load. Please post your results here for comparison. Use a good analysis service
I would say 10,000 mile intervals would be safe but I'd need to make sure we weren't cooking up any sludge at that point.
Oil extreme is a trademark name for a overbased calcium carbonate additive, that is quite expensive but works very well, Friction Modification expires at about 3000 miles in normal use. Check it out on the internet site.
[ December 05, 2002, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
Your seat of the pants was accurate, the HTHS value of redline is incredibly stable, acting like a thicker oil at stress points under load. Please post your results here for comparison. Use a good analysis service
I would say 10,000 mile intervals would be safe but I'd need to make sure we weren't cooking up any sludge at that point.
Oil extreme is a trademark name for a overbased calcium carbonate additive, that is quite expensive but works very well, Friction Modification expires at about 3000 miles in normal use. Check it out on the internet site.
[ December 05, 2002, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
Originally posted by Bror Jace:
[QB]slider, this is your car?
Oh no. I've been changing at 5K just to be on the safe side until more information was gathered.
I'll be sending in an analysis soon though. Should be interesting. I'll post the results.
Thanks!quote:
Originally posted by Terry:
Slider, have you been driving this test vehicle without permission !
lol!
Your seat of the pants was accurate, the HTHS value of redline is incredibly stable, acting like a thicker oil at stress points under load. Please post your results here for comparison. Use a good analysis service
You'll probably be hearing from me fairly soon.
I would say 10,000 mile intervals would be safe but I'd need to make sure we weren't cooking up any sludge at that point.
Point well taken.
Oil extreme is a trademark name for a overbased calcium carbonate additive, that is quite expensive but works very well, Friction Modification expires at about 3000 miles in normal use. Check it out on the internet site.
Terry,
This analysis shows low nitration for the Toyota 3.0 V6. Could nitration be affected by the Redline or the oil extreme? I thought it had more to do with external factors such as heat and incomplete combustion. I've been mulling over how to keep the nitration lower in my Camry.
BTW, I'm only a couple of months from sampling the Schaeffer Blend 5w30 in the Camry.
JJ
[ December 05, 2002, 05:54 PM: Message edited by: jjbula ]
This analysis shows low nitration for the Toyota 3.0 V6. Could nitration be affected by the Redline or the oil extreme? I thought it had more to do with external factors such as heat and incomplete combustion. I've been mulling over how to keep the nitration lower in my Camry.
BTW, I'm only a couple of months from sampling the Schaeffer Blend 5w30 in the Camry.
JJ
[ December 05, 2002, 05:54 PM: Message edited by: jjbula ]
Nitration was low for both oil tests, Redline and Exxon Superflo/Extreme.
This is one tight motor( perfect ring and valve seal) and burns very efficiently. So I don't think nitration in this engine is influenced initially by the oil, in past tests nitration dropped using 91 oct or higher premium, cooling combustion temps.
We are using Odis Beaver's Fuel Power(FP) fuel add to run 87 oct with seemingly similar results to 89 -91 oct fuels. A very nice trade off for less than a dollar of FP per fillup.
We are currently testing Superflo 5w-30 with 3 oz Auto-Rx.
This is one tight motor( perfect ring and valve seal) and burns very efficiently. So I don't think nitration in this engine is influenced initially by the oil, in past tests nitration dropped using 91 oct or higher premium, cooling combustion temps.
We are using Odis Beaver's Fuel Power(FP) fuel add to run 87 oct with seemingly similar results to 89 -91 oct fuels. A very nice trade off for less than a dollar of FP per fillup.
We are currently testing Superflo 5w-30 with 3 oz Auto-Rx.
I'll try and track down some of that Odis Beaver FP and look forward to the test with autoRx.
Thanks
Thanks
Try stepping up in spark plug heat range for a cleaner burn. The Automakers do not know if the car will be used in the desert heat of Arizona or the cold of Minnesota so the spark plugs are a little too cold for most ambient conditions,,higher octane will only cost more money imo and is not desireable for some motors,,I'll post a read on it for you.quote:
Originally posted by jjbula:
Terry,
This analysis shows low nitration for the Toyota 3.0 V6. Could nitration be affected by the Redline or the oil extreme? I thought it had more to do with external factors such as heat and incomplete combustion. I've been mulling over how to keep the nitration lower in my Camry.
BTW, I'm only a couple of months from sampling the Schaeffer Blend 5w30 in the Camry.
JJ
EDIT:
Often a replacement plug is not the exact heat range another brand might be. A guy can also widen the gap of a plug for better burn to hit the sweet spot if a one step hotter plug is too hot. You have to ease into this step and listen for detonation or spark knock,take a few plug readings in these modern cars you will most often just hear a snap before the knock sensor goes to work and retards the timing
[ December 05, 2002, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
dragboat
I changed to NGK Iridiums in both vehicles. I can thoroughly recommend them. Plugs do make a difference IMO.
I changed to NGK Iridiums in both vehicles. I can thoroughly recommend them. Plugs do make a difference IMO.
Terry,
How close were the Redline wear results to the Superflo/Oil Extreme wear results? Even though the latter produced the lowest wear values ever for this engine, was the Redline close? How do you feel the Redline did in these tests overall (your opinion)? Thanks.
Kyle
Superflo/oilextreme had lower overall wear values( low single digits) but oil was changed at 5600 miles vs 7000 on Redline. Nitration was better on Redline meaning better combustion efficiency. A second change on Redline I "suspect" would have garnered better wear values.
If you can afford OilExtreme used in a high end synthetic you may be able to achieve the best of both worlds, low wear very stable base oil. But that would be a 'brew' type thing
Oil extreme FM wears out in about 3000 miles of driving. TBN retention/boost lasts full drain. The stuff does settle some in the bottles. We were able to turn Exxon cheapo oil into 11 TBN +.
I like Redline because the stuff works, some of what is read as wear is the adds that we have discussed elsewhere here. The key to using RL is that you need to be careful not to go too thick with it because it is so shear stable. Ie the 10w-40 is more like a 50w oil to your engine oil pump and bearings.
And no RL never gave me a race suit. Wouldn't even send me free oil to test !
[ December 15, 2002, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
If you can afford OilExtreme used in a high end synthetic you may be able to achieve the best of both worlds, low wear very stable base oil. But that would be a 'brew' type thing
Oil extreme FM wears out in about 3000 miles of driving. TBN retention/boost lasts full drain. The stuff does settle some in the bottles. We were able to turn Exxon cheapo oil into 11 TBN +.
I like Redline because the stuff works, some of what is read as wear is the adds that we have discussed elsewhere here. The key to using RL is that you need to be careful not to go too thick with it because it is so shear stable. Ie the 10w-40 is more like a 50w oil to your engine oil pump and bearings.
And no RL never gave me a race suit. Wouldn't even send me free oil to test !
[ December 15, 2002, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
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