Try running a bottle of VSOT, it caused my 3 vehicles with catch cans like above to dramatically decrease the oil amount that was caught. I posted my findings in more detail in the general auto section today. I also use the same style catch can as the above picture. When I first started I could get the above in about 1K miles, now I can't get half that in 4K miles. I used the VSOT with 5W20 so it wasn't the effect of thicker oil that helped. Also I found the oil stays clear much longer now.
PCV Catch-Can and Oil Consumption
- Thread starter VelociRacer
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Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment - has monster amount of Boron and Moly
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=42;t=002368
Something else I am seeing is right after I change the oil, the catch can will pick up faster for the first tank of gas or so then settle back down on all the cars.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=42;t=002368
Something else I am seeing is right after I change the oil, the catch can will pick up faster for the first tank of gas or so then settle back down on all the cars.
mjo: i took out the filter element this weekend. it seems like it is too restrictive once it gets dirty/saturated. at first i'm sure it works fine, but after a few thousand miles i wouldn't trust it to flow well enough. thanks for the heads up about it.
Update: After 1000 miles, there is not even 1/2" in the little bottle. Leading me to conclude that in my engine, oil consumption =/ oil collected in can. Oh well, at least I know my engine runs fractionally cleaner that way. I also noticed the higher revving I drive, the more oil is collected in there, slightly more. Blow-by is at play here. And the PCV system is doing its job.
Here are some pictures of the install for y'all DIYers, no pictures after 1000 miles yet:
Catch-Can Isometric View
Catch-Can Front View
SOHC VTEC Valvetrain @ 131.5k miles
Valve Cover @ 131.5k miles
Slightly more varnish than after end of 2 AutoRX treatments 10k miles ago. About to start LC and FP maint doses. Compression as of 10k miles ago was 170/160/160/160psi. Before AutoRX, Cyl3 was only 140psi. Will take another reading at the beginning of LC/FP useage and then after 10k miles.
[ October 22, 2005, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: VelociRacer ]
Here are some pictures of the install for y'all DIYers, no pictures after 1000 miles yet:
Catch-Can Isometric View
Catch-Can Front View
SOHC VTEC Valvetrain @ 131.5k miles
Valve Cover @ 131.5k miles
Slightly more varnish than after end of 2 AutoRX treatments 10k miles ago. About to start LC and FP maint doses. Compression as of 10k miles ago was 170/160/160/160psi. Before AutoRX, Cyl3 was only 140psi. Will take another reading at the beginning of LC/FP useage and then after 10k miles.
[ October 22, 2005, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: VelociRacer ]
Just to mention that I had a leak through the bottom of the catch can because I'm using synthetic motor oil. The remedy was easy, all I did was unscrew the bleed valve, cleaned out the oily "can" with solvent, and filled the hole with epoxy.
I have the same catch can as the picture above and no leaks after 9 months with synthetics on 3 vehicles.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRO...oryZ6763QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Since the product does not come with an instruction, can anyone explain where is the small blue part with two clamps on it installed (located at the upper left in the product photo)? What purpose does it serve?
Since the product does not come with an instruction, can anyone explain where is the small blue part with two clamps on it installed (located at the upper left in the product photo)? What purpose does it serve?
Along with PCV Catch-can there is a product that is much the same that is called a "Condensator"the company makes wild claims about power/mileage/ and how clean the engine is. I have seen them but dont know anyone who has installed for more info see there web site: condensatorsales.com
i choose the accurate mach works catch can its all alum. has a stainless steel wire mesh inside a container within the main container that catches the filtered vapors..it really comes out super clean and dry on the end to the throttle body not even any residue inside the hose..the price has gone up from 95 bucks with all the hardware to 165 bucks i bought three for my vehicles.
Says who?
100s have installed them and never had a problem. The failure rate for the ebay ones is on par with the failure rate for your over-priced gouging catch cans which do the same job that you seem to push in this thread.
Everyone knows that there is no difference between the $20 ebay ones and your US$100+ variety.
You saying that the ebay units fail is just pure baseless opinion backed with zero fact.
Those cheap $20 catch cans on eBay are very likely to leak under high pressure, which will do more harm than good.
Check out the PCV oil catch can made by Boomba:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2559082#post2559082
It costs $115 a piece. It has a clear window on the can unlike the other cheap cans with a clear outside tube that will leak.
Check out the PCV oil catch can made by Boomba:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2559082#post2559082
It costs $115 a piece. It has a clear window on the can unlike the other cheap cans with a clear outside tube that will leak.
try 10 inches of vacuum instead of PSI
Actually it would see a peak of around 30" of vacuum with engine braking.
Actually it would see a peak of around 30" of vacuum with engine braking.
using www.onlineconversion, 30" of Hg is approximately 14.7 PSI - not much at all
I haven't paid as close attention to it yet, but it does seem that way with my car on 5-6k OCI with Mobil 1. Seems to collect a lot at first, then the level barely changes for the rest of the OCI. I wonder why?
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