getting carburetor gaskets not to stick and use more than once

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on holleys they have the blue gaskets between the bowl and metering block which are for the most part reusable. You can pull the carb apart numerous times to do whatever, and not have to buy a new gasket or a set of. A wonderful idea.

On the p.o.f.s. mercarb on my 3.0L in the boat the one "main" gasket between the bowl cover and body, which is all you ever really pull apart to service carb to adjust float, rejet or clean is only available in the rebuild kit at $26.
It's the typical black dark gray color paper type gasket. I've tried coating both sides with white lithium grease, in addition to having the metal surfaces clean as can be, but after time and so many heat cycles the thing ends up sticking to the metal and tearing. Anybody have any solutions?
 
for picture of what I'm talking about:

http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/

go to parts for merc marine products,

use 0M085483 for serial number

use 06418 for zip code, select any shop. birbarie works for me.

model # will be 4111021N2

select carburetor, mercarb. Carb casting is 807504N if it matters.

#28 in picture is what I'm talking about
 
Others will surely start running for the hills screaming the sky is falling, but for any gasket (other than a head gasket) I apply anti-seize. Just a light film. It will never stick again. This was a must do on all our industrial surfaces that needed infrequent, but repeated, service. In our case it wasn't the gasket we were saving, it was the time to clean off the old one and prep the surface.

Just don't get sloppy with it and leave any that the fuel can wash off on the exposed edges. It doesn't take much. Just a dab smoothed out over the gasket. You can even attempt to wipe it dry after the application and it will leave enough on there to do the trick.

If you're an "artiste~" ..the next time you get a new gasket, buy some appropriate mil gasket material (probably a roll would be a bit much) and trace the gasket out with a fine tipped marker and grab your X-acto knife and go to work. That and a pair of fine scissors, in the right hands (not mine), can produce some really good facsimiles.


This doesn't appear to be a complex gasket.
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quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Others will surely start running for the hills screaming the sky is falling, but for any gasket (other than a head gasket) I apply anti-seize. Just a light film. It will never stick again. This was a must do on all our industrial surfaces that needed infrequent, but repeated, service. In our case it wasn't the gasket we were saving, it was the time to clean off the old one and prep the surface.

Just don't get sloppy with it and leave any that the fuel can wash off on the exposed edges. It doesn't take much. Just a dab smoothed out over the gasket. You can even attempt to wipe it dry after the application and it will leave enough on there to do the trick.

If you're an "artiste~" ..the next time you get a new gasket, buy some appropriate mil gasket material (probably a roll would be a bit much) and trace the gasket out with a fine tipped marker and grab your X-acto knife and go to work. That and a pair of fine scissors, in the right hands (not mine), can produce some really good facsimiles.


Not me. It was common practice many years ago to coat paper gaskets with a light film of grease before assembly. An uncle of mine rebuilt and restored vehicles in the 50's and 60's and showed me this.

A very thin film of RTV left to almost dry before assembly will accomplish roughly the dame thing.
 
wrong picture above, that is of a rochester. Mine is a mercarb, gasket is #28 in the middle:
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