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No load on engine to push the rings out is your cause of the blue smoke
When redlined...
- Thread starter coleyork250
- Start date
You mentioned the engine has blowby, so you know the rings are worn. Worn rings let oil into the cylinders, which is the cause of your blue smoke.
Originally Posted by 5AcresAndAFool
I remember in my dealership tech days doing crank angle variation relearns, part of the process was to bounce the engine variation learn fuel cutoff which on many was over 5k rpms.
I would wager that 5000 RPM was below redline on those engines.
I remember in my dealership tech days doing crank angle variation relearns, part of the process was to bounce the engine variation learn fuel cutoff which on many was over 5k rpms.
I would wager that 5000 RPM was below redline on those engines.
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Originally Posted by 5AcresAndAFool
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Originally Posted by coleyork250
What would cause a car to burn oil and smoke blue when revved to redline while sitting still? Also black and some slight white smoke is emitted as well. What is causing it?
Redlining it while sitting still? Who does that?
Scott
I remember in my dealership tech days doing crank angle variation relearns, part of the process was to bounce the engine variation learn fuel cutoff which on many was over 5k rpms.
Curious, did the official procedure require the engine to be at operating temp?
Scott
I believe you had to get the ECT over 160 iirc
Originally Posted by 5AcresAndAFool
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Originally Posted by coleyork250
What would cause a car to burn oil and smoke blue when revved to redline while sitting still? Also black and some slight white smoke is emitted as well. What is causing it?
Redlining it while sitting still? Who does that?
Scott
I remember in my dealership tech days doing crank angle variation relearns, part of the process was to bounce the engine variation learn fuel cutoff which on many was over 5k rpms.
Curious, did the official procedure require the engine to be at operating temp?
Scott
I believe you had to get the ECT over 160 iirc
Originally Posted by DGXR
Originally Posted by 5AcresAndAFool
I remember in my dealership tech days doing crank angle variation relearns, part of the process was to bounce the engine variation learn fuel cutoff which on many was over 5k rpms.
I would wager that 5000 RPM was below redline on those engines.
I believe on the 3800 engine the procedure cut fuel at 5200 or 5300 rpm. Redline was 6k or so but I believe they shifted at 5400 normally at WOT.
Originally Posted by 5AcresAndAFool
I remember in my dealership tech days doing crank angle variation relearns, part of the process was to bounce the engine variation learn fuel cutoff which on many was over 5k rpms.
I would wager that 5000 RPM was below redline on those engines.
I believe on the 3800 engine the procedure cut fuel at 5200 or 5300 rpm. Redline was 6k or so but I believe they shifted at 5400 normally at WOT.
- Joined
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Originally Posted by coleyork250
What would cause a car to burn oil and smoke blue when revved to redline while sitting still? Also black and some slight white smoke is emitted as well. What is causing it?
Oil blowby past the rings / valve guides. It's not good on an engine freewheeling like this either.
What would cause a car to burn oil and smoke blue when revved to redline while sitting still? Also black and some slight white smoke is emitted as well. What is causing it?
Oil blowby past the rings / valve guides. It's not good on an engine freewheeling like this either.
What is the remaining life expectancy of an engine in that type of shape?
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Originally Posted by coleyork250
What is the remaining life expectancy of an engine in that type of shape?
Have a compression test done on the engine.
What is the remaining life expectancy of an engine in that type of shape?
Have a compression test done on the engine.
Originally Posted by coleyork250
What is the remaining life expectancy of an engine in that type of shape?
There is no way anyone here or anyone who isn't the owner of that car or someone the owner has given permission to inspect the engine, could possibly know that. RazorsEdge is right, good first step is compression test to see what you're working with, then from that point on make sure engine doesn't get any more unnecessary wear, make sure everything is up to date on maintenance (especially for things that can end an engine's life like timing belts), then just maybe the engine will have a long life.
What is the remaining life expectancy of an engine in that type of shape?
There is no way anyone here or anyone who isn't the owner of that car or someone the owner has given permission to inspect the engine, could possibly know that. RazorsEdge is right, good first step is compression test to see what you're working with, then from that point on make sure engine doesn't get any more unnecessary wear, make sure everything is up to date on maintenance (especially for things that can end an engine's life like timing belts), then just maybe the engine will have a long life.
