Napa Silver or Supertech oil filter?

Originally Posted by 4WD
No, no, no … you don't get it. The idea here is to buy a 20k filter and run it 5k … or buy a 10k filter and run it 30k with 20w60 oil …



I think you are on to something here
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Cost shouldn't be more than $4 including taxes, must exceed the Toyota OE filter's efficiency and should survive 5k OCI.

My oil changes are 95% of the times right at 5k, with the others being a few hundred miles longer if I'm out traveling.
 
That's what I read on an older thread. I'm aware that these basic filters are cellulose media.

I've debated doing the 10k ultra filters because the synthetic oils are certainly capable. But the owners manual states every 5k miles. So I'm not sure if I can go for the extended 10k OCI?
 
Originally Posted by Jackson_Slugger
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Originally Posted by Jackson_Slugger
Some K&N Pro-Series oil filters are on sale at Amazon, check your application.


What thread type is that? Need something to match a 6607 or 7317 (honda cars). For $4 I'd buy a few of those if I knew they'd fit my cars.


Then go onto Amazon or K&N and enter your vehicle...


Here, I helped you!

Help
 
Originally Posted by jsean
Cost shouldn't be more than $4 including taxes, must exceed the Toyota OE filter's efficiency and should survive 5k OCI.

My oil changes are 95% of the times right at 5k, with the others being a few hundred miles longer if I'm out traveling.


Well, pretty much everything is probably equal or better than the OEM Toyota filter efficiency.

Cost of no more than $4 including tax and/or shipping is going to leave a pretty small group to choose from.

Another option is to use a filter rated for long use and leave it on for two or three 5000 mile OCIs.

Ultras are $8.97, so that would be $2.99 + tax per 5000 mile run. The cheapest Fram PH is $3.88 + tax. SuperTechs are $2.97 + tax, so looks like that's your answer if you're not into running a filter for multiple OCIs.
 
Sounds like ST or Nap Silver are ok. Interestingly, the Napa Silver seems to have better construction than the PF1233 that came out. Although I know both are paper/cellulose media.

For my next oil change, can I use the Fram XG/Ultra with ST full synthetic and do a 10k oil change? 10k OCI would be twice the recommended OCI in the owner's manual.
 
One thing I've been wondering and can't find anecdote, does the Silver use a combo valve or separate dome bypass and adbv. If the former, I'd give the edge to the ST4386 with separate bypass. If not I'd think the Silver the better filter. For 5k mi. oci though, both should be fine.
 
I only make that determination based on the individual filter. What applies to one part number filter will not on another, which makes blanket statements on this topic kind of useless.

For instance, I find that aftermarket oil filters for Nissan and Subarus, regardless of grade "silver, gold, platinum, etc.." tend to have a media can in them that is much smaller than the OEM filter. Even if the OEM filter uses fiber end caps, I'd rather have more media surface area in there than less.

The whole "micron rating" or "synthetic media" thing is all marketing hype to me. A full-flow filer like this is only going to do so much.
 
Is there a way to find this without cutting open the filter? The Silver has a metal inner cage vs the AC Delco which is a plastic cage. So the Silver is already ahead IMO
 
Originally Posted by jsean
For my next oil change, can I use the Fram XG/Ultra with ST full synthetic and do a 10k oil change? 10k OCI would be twice the recommended OCI in the owner's manual.


Or keep with the 5k oil changes and run the Ultra for two OCIs. Or maybe better yet, split the difference and go with 7500 mile OCIs and use the Ultra twice which would put it at 15K which is still below it's max rating of 20K miles. Doing that you'd still be saving time and money compared to 5K OCIs with $4-5 filters every time.
 
That sounds like a reasonable path going forward.
FWIW, for anyone reading this thread, I did my oil change at 5,582 miles. The AC Delco PF1233 that came out had already popped the bypass valve
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…..The AC Delco PF1233 that came out had already popped the bypass valve.....
I'm not sure what that reference means. Looking at an image of that filter once posted on bitog, looks like it uses Champ blue button bypass and flat compression spring combo. Never seen any complaints here previously about that bypass. The current Super Tech 6607 and other small ST filters use it and can be seen in front of the can in first pic. Very common bypass in Champ made filters with dome bypass.
 
I guess I should have started my last post by saying that I'm admittedly a noob when it comes to oil filters and their construction. It's been eye opening to read the threads on here.

What I was trying to say was - that when I took out the old filter, the bypass had popped (I could take a screw driver and easily push it back out and away from the threaded end) despite the car having been driven to operating temp prior to changing the oil.

So the question is: does that mean that the filter was in by pass or is it just exhibiting normal behavior?

The Napa Silver seems to use a single coil spring instead of the leaf spring that the Delco and ST used.
 
When I get parts for my 4Runner, I go through the parts website at a local dealer. The prices are discounted from regular price when doing an internet order and you go to the parts counter, tell them your name and they bring out your order. I just looked at the oil filter price: list - $5.41, internet price - $4.00. Heck, give them a call...they can ship to you and depending on that cost, you may be saving some cash. My filter: Right Toyota
 
Saw open the delco and look for yourself because the delco has metal end caps. The bypass button is controlled by a spring. When you get the filter open you can see how it works. The st is virtually identical it's even blue. The Delco probably used their own media but I cut a 1233 open and it was thin media. The Toyota at $4 advice above is the best. You get the latest factory updated part and know it is the right filter.
 
Originally Posted by jsean
What I was trying to say was - that when I took out the old filter, the bypass had popped (I could take a screw driver and easily push it back out and away from the threaded end) despite the car having been driven to operating temp prior to changing the oil.

So the question is: does that mean that the filter was in by pass or is it just exhibiting normal behavior?


Are you maybe meaning the ADBV (anti-drain back valve)? As others have said, the bypass valve is way down inside the center tube on the dome end of the filter.
 
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