Buying a cheap, beater bicycle

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A lovely bike trail opened up in my county. The trail is wide, paved, mostly flat, and runs alongside a canal with amazing views. I have not ridden a bike for about 50 years now, but, would like to give it a try. The only bike rental in my area rents specialized bikes for $100 per day, so, renting a bike is out.

Is Craigslist a good source for a $150 maximum bike?

When looking at a used bike, is there anything to check aside from tires, brake and shift function, and how it rides?

I was even thinking about a $100 Walmart special, but, these bikes have a lot of bad reviews on Walmart.com.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Is there a bike shop in your area? Should be able to get a decent new one for $150 if you bargain a bit. Agree with
your comment on Walmart bikes. I've bought from both. Best of luck, great way to stay active.
 
Check out your local Goodwill store. After 50 years you might not enjoy it as much so you won't lose a lot of money if that's the case. Mine always has plenty of used bikes, though with the Christmas season upon us there might be slim pickings.
 
You should really spend $200 and get this from Bikes Direct. Get the size that fits you instead of the one size fits most approach from Target/Walmart/Meijer... .

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/eclipse-city-bikes.htm

[Linked Image]
 
^Good choice for casual paved bike trail riding. A flat trail really doesn't need gears, a 1 speed might work and the simplicity is great. Get a bike that's the right frame size and get some help from someone who knows bikes getting it adjusted for you. Nothing like riding a decent bicycle to put a smile on your face. Lots of great bikes to be had on Craigslist.
 
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+1 on the Dawes Eclipse City from Bikesdirect. I got one six months ago and it has been great on rides around the neighborhood and an occasional 20 mile bike trail in my town. Really a nice ride for 50+ casual riders. Assembly was easy but had to true the wheels a bit.
 
I'm heavily into bikes. Road, Mtn,. Fat I love em. Build em and work on them. IMHO at about 1k is where you want to be or, again MHO you will end up with repairs out the butt. Bikes are seriously expensive if you are going to actually put miles on em. If you are going to do 500 miles or less a year whatever you get is a ok. If you are going to truly ride, the return of a 1k bike will be worth it in the end.
 
Originally Posted by BISCUT
I'm heavily into bikes. Road, Mtn,. Fat I love em. Build em and work on them. IMHO at about 1k is where you want to be or, again MHO you will end up with repairs out the butt. Bikes are seriously expensive if you are going to actually put miles on em. If you are going to do 500 miles or less a year whatever you get is a ok. If you are going to truly ride, the return of a 1k bike will be worth it in the end.


Well put and me too but he might want to dip his toe in the bike waters before he spends 1k on one.
 
Originally Posted by BISCUT
I'm heavily into bikes. Road, Mtn,. Fat I love em. Build em and work on them. IMHO at about 1k is where you want to be or, again MHO you will end up with repairs out the butt. Bikes are seriously expensive if you are going to actually put miles on em. If you are going to do 500 miles or less a year whatever you get is a ok. If you are going to truly ride, the return of a 1k bike will be worth it in the end.


Craigslist etc. are full of $ 1000 bikes ONLY RIDDEN A COUPLE OF TIMES ...

You don't start with a $ 1000 bike. You decide if you like to ride, THEN upgrade if you want.
 
Bought a $5 yard sale 18 speed 3 years ago ans ride occasionally. It aggravates a chronic back problem so will try something more upright. Something to consider.
 
CL is perfect for bikes, the ones that last are Trek 800-900 series steel frame & 6000-7000 series aluminum frame mtn bikes,
my Trek 6000 went over 30,000 miles, till the rims showed cracks from brake pad abuse.
Plenty of decent Treks out there with less on them, may need tires, new saddle, pads, drive chain, shift cables every two years but they
go decades with no cracks, great QC on the welding. I would still get a mountain bike even for the flats, for the gears & big tires, more pedaling
less tube patching. More exploring.
 
Originally Posted by BISCUT
I'm heavily into bikes. Road, Mtn,. Fat I love em. Build em and work on them. IMHO at about 1k is where you want to be or, again MHO you will end up with repairs out the butt. Bikes are seriously expensive if you are going to actually put miles on em. If you are going to do 500 miles or less a year whatever you get is a ok. If you are going to truly ride, the return of a 1k bike will be worth it in the end.


Around the turn of the century, I purchased a new closeout Fuji Thrill for 169 dollars at a Performance Bicycle shop. I put about 40k miles on it before someone finally stole it. I did all the repairs/maintenance. Dirt cheap per mile.
 
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by BISCUT
I'm heavily into bikes. Road, Mtn,. Fat I love em. Build em and work on them. IMHO at about 1k is where you want to be or, again MHO you will end up with repairs out the butt. Bikes are seriously expensive if you are going to actually put miles on em. If you are going to do 500 miles or less a year whatever you get is a ok. If you are going to truly ride, the return of a 1k bike will be worth it in the end.


Craigslist etc. are full of $ 1000 bikes ONLY RIDDEN A COUPLE OF TIMES ...

You don't start with a $ 1000 bike. You decide if you like to ride, THEN upgrade if you want.


Your perspective is logical, but I would counter that a crappy bike might make one think they don't like to ride. There is something about a more refined drivetrain and proper fit that make a bike exponentially more fun to ride.
 
CL and other free listing services like FB Marketplace are all over the map. Trying to say if it's "good" or not is pointless. It might, in your area, have a screaming good deal one day, and rubbish for a month after that.

You need some idea of what you're looking for. I've had good luck with 90's/early 2000's era Mountain Bikes from Trek or Specialized. Fuji is also a good brand. I normally have to replace all the tires and brake pads, as the rubber has aged-out, re-lube the wheel bearings and give it an overall adjustment and tune-up. My family uses them for rail trail biking, so I replace the knobby off-road tires with mud tires, less rolling resistance and better on roads and sidewalks, but good enough to go through the puddles on the packed rail trails.

If you're not willing to work on your own, be prepared to pony up more money for either a better new bike or someone to fix up on old one.
 
Originally Posted by skyactiv
You should really spend $200 and get this from Bikes Direct. Get the size that fits you instead of the one size fits most approach from Target/Walmart/Meijer... .

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/eclipse-city-bikes.htm

[Linked Image]





That bike would be OK IF it has a freehub. Not clear if it is, probably just old school freewheel type. I always bend/break the axle right quick on freewheel type hubs and the bearings/races are shot in very little time.

Modern freehub is the way to go. With proper maintenance they last a long time.
 
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I picked up a used Giant Cypress a bit over a year ago for $250. Nice comfy bike for those rides where I'm not looking to go 20+ MPH

Check Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for some name brand used bikes. Giant, Specialized, Trek, etc.

I have the Giant for those rides with the wife going from winery to winery. I have a Specialized Roubaix Expert for when I want to ride faster with my MAMIL group.
 
Those who pretend you need to spend $1K or get a used bike formerly worth $1k new are delusional.

There is very little benefit between a $400 bike and $1K besides the weight difference, if you shop wisely.

What you should look for buying used off craigslist or any local avenue, is that the bike is adjusted properly and operates smoothly so you don't need to pay a bike shop (if you can't DIY which you probably can't without a learning curve after so long without riding) to get it adjusted well. If you want to tackle that learning curve, GREAT, it will benefit you in the long run, but I should back up and mention that buying used meant a major brand, which doesn't have to be some $1K MSRP bike, just something main brand with recognizable components.

It does not need to be single speed or any other niche idea that someone else considers nirvana. It just needs to be solid major brand with major brand components, that is either adjusted right and ready to use, or priced low enough that paying someone or DIY is reasonable for what you're getting.

As far as what to look out for, it is fairly straightforward. You know you need tread on your tires so if they are worn out, or cracking from dryrot, add that expense, or I should write deduct it from the value. Grips that are worn, are another small expense. Gears sprockets with worth away teeth or a rusty chain or one with much slack in each link is also a little more expense to nickle and dime you, and yet it is not unreasonable to expect to spend a little money to get a used bike back to good shape and will still save a lot of money over buying an equivalent bike new. You know what unworn components look like, and any that are worn, may need replaced soon. Anything can be replaced, unlike a motor vehicle this is not a make or break deal depending on small parts unless the frame itself is substantially damaged. Even then, some people buy new frames but I digress, this is not a starting-over thing to do. The point is that a major brand, median quality bike is modular and can have any components replaced with same or upgraded parts depending on your needs and budget.

"proper fit" has nothing at all to do with how much money you spend. Do go to a local bike shop and try a few on for size, and do pass on any bikes used you find wherever, that don't feel quite right.

Like anything else, there are the two extremes that you should avoid at this point, off/no-name department store bikes, and overpriced luxury bikes in the $700+ price range. Get a median priced used bike then go from there deciding what more you need if anything.

Remember that if you get a major brand using standardized components, you can upgrade individual components as you see the need or from failures, do not need to spend top dollar for overkill everything just to ride some paved bike paths. That is not at all the same scenario as a road biker putting on several tens of thousands of mi/yr or a MTB rider who needs to survive doing jumps. Or just look kewl to his peers.
wink.gif


In any case, budget for a good helmet and lighting if riding after dusk. You are more valuable than the bike.
 
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