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Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Blink7] #5282450 12/01/19 09:58 PM
Joined: Jul 2016
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Kemanorel Offline
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Wow, I'm disappointed in all this naysay on taking bearings apart to change the grease out. I just did this right now and would love to re-open this thread with some real facts and pictures.

I am a retired master mechanic, and am always sad to see a concept called "preventative maintenance" becoming a scarce thing, with instead "expected failures" as a result. As if anyone here has seen a super high quality grease inside even a Timken bearing?

https://electricalfundablog.com/identify-bearing-number-calculation-nomenclature/

and

https://www.ahrinternational.com/[censored].shtml

should make this post worthwhile. That's the nitty-gritty for just what goes into bearings, and trust me, the usual lubrication is a joke. Bearings aren't built to last forever, but you sure can help them get there.

Let's look at this grease found in most bearings, even high-quality Turkish units found on a high-end Audi. I just finished cleaning it out with chlorinated solvent-- use this so it doesn't attack the plastic cages inside. Then direct high pressure air through the bearing afterwards to remove the remaining residue. Do this outdoors or in a well ventilated area since this is toxic stuff.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


As you can see here, the grease which is from 2008 has completely ceased flowing, and the bearings were completely dry. They had no lubrication. This is on a low mileage well-stored vehicle, and the price of these parts far exceeds the time it tooks to simply remove them and pop the seals out, clean them and regrease them and then expect an extremely long life. This was done as preventative maintenance while the intake valves were decarbonized (1st gen direct-injection engine carbon problem.) Seals can easily be opened without damage using a tiny flathead screwdriver pried from the inside.

Videos on how to do it are abundant, as high-end bearings for skateboards etc all are sealed units and people want to open them up to change the grease to something else etc.

As for the comments about grease mixability, yes it is true that white lithium grease will cause all sorts of problems with sodium-based greases, but if you're using something like Mobil 1 synthetic grease then you shouldn't have to worry, right? In any event, chlorinated solvent can be used to safely clean out a bearing without harming any of the races, without leaving any residue of any kind. Find it in an auto parts store as electrical parts cleaner or alternator cleaner. It is non-flammable.

Grease can be packed in, depending on the size, with your gloved palm and just push. It's readily apparent when the grease pushes out the other side, you've done the job well. Pop the seals back on with nothing but your fingers, and everyone can enjoy a bearing that will now last forever.

I like Redline CV2 grease, not really sure there is much better, but hopefully, my first real post to BITOG is a good one and not a firestarter. :P

Have a safe holiday!

Kemanorel

Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Blink7] #5282889 12/02/19 12:28 PM
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A_User55555 Offline
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I'm all for repacking bearings, but the problem I have is when I remove the existing seal, It gets deformed just enough to have the new grease seep out.

If I could buy bearing seals, I would try and repack them


2011 Cadillac DTS. No the headgaskets have not blown.....
5W-30 Napa Full Synthetic with a Carquest 85522 (Wix) Filter
Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Kemanorel] #5282952 12/02/19 01:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2017
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Dave9 Online Content
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 1,101
Originally Posted by Kemanorel
As for the comments about grease mixability, yes it is true that white lithium grease will cause all sorts of problems with sodium-based greases, but if you're using something like Mobil 1 synthetic grease then you shouldn't have to worry, right?


No, not right. M1 synthetic is in no way some kind of compatible-with-everything grease.

Repack bearings when you can get new seals (those designed to be serviced). Replace bearings when you can't, or if they are inexpensive enough (from a major brand) that it's not worth the bother.

FYI your picture of the bearing packed with M1 had WAY too much grease in it. Try using about 1/3rd that much.

Last edited by Dave9; 12/02/19 01:33 PM.
Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Blink7] #5283429 12/02/19 09:00 PM
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Ctopher Offline
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I don’t see the point of pulling seals, cleaning and repacking on a easily available bearing......especially with the chance of failure and the labor needed to replace it. Yeah doing that on a skateboard doesn’t have a huge penalty for labor to get to the bearing again.

Now when you are talking about something that is unattainiumn and no longer made that is a different story.

Apparently people have unlimited time on their hands are are stupidly cheap to replace a replaceable bearing.

Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Blink7] #5286976 12/06/19 02:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
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nthach Offline
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The bearing manufacturers are usually tight-lipped about what grease they use in sealed bearings. The Japanese suppliers(Koyo/JTEKT, Nachi, NTN and Nachi) do have a code that corresponds to whatever grease they use at the factory for 6000 series bearings and they use Li-complex greases from Shell, Kyodo Yushi or polyurea XOM Polyrex for bearings going into electrical motors. They don't disclose for sealed wheel end bearings.

It's safe to assume the OEMs spec Li/Ca-complex greases but getting the seal to work as intended after prying it out and popping it back in is another story.

Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Blink7] #5287281 12/06/19 09:40 PM
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Mainia Offline
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I repack bearings at work 90% of the time. I work for a med sized printer. I use a combo of Mobil 1 Polyurea and Schaeffer's 714 Aluminum Complex. I use just Polyurea on some, both in a cocktail and just #714 depending on speed and bearing load. Clay based greased bearings I leave as OEM filled. I DO NOT let anything Lithium in the building for the last 8 years. Even though they are rated as non compatible I have not had an issue I can see. Even Schaeffer's says you need to test the grease compatibility chart in some cases has very large wiggle room. I found the two that work good together.

As far as the above bearing it is packed way too much. I agree with the poster who commented 1/3 less, but that could be pushed to 1/4 less then the picture.You have to have room for grease expansion and grease push away in the bearing travel path. I spin up all my bearings and side load them with a 1/2 drill on #2 speed, with the nose nips extended. Then I clean the grease IF it comes out of the seal. I use a razor blade and take the edge off on sandpaper or cement. Or lately I use a micro flat bladed screwdriver in the inside part of the seal. You get good at popping the seals out with minimal distortion with practice. My bearing now last a lot longer, close to double on high use heavy loaded bearings and some would still be going now even with low use machines with OEM grease amounts. I see it is worth doing this on most all bearing we use.


2018 Lowered Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T
2014 Toyota Rav4 AWD
2005 Honda Civic
Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: A_User55555] #5287284 12/06/19 09:48 PM
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Mainia Offline
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Originally Posted by A_User55555
I'm all for repacking bearings, but the problem I have is when I remove the existing seal, It gets deformed just enough to have the new grease seep out.

If I could buy bearing seals, I would try and repack them


I don't see this as a problem after using 10 bearings as a seal popping trainer session. After practice you don't do much if any damage to the seals.


2018 Lowered Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T
2014 Toyota Rav4 AWD
2005 Honda Civic
Re: Grease for repacking a new sealed bearing? [Re: Mainia] #5290696 12/10/19 05:52 PM
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nthach Offline
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Originally Posted by Mainia
I repack bearings at work 90% of the time. I work for a med sized printer. I use a combo of Mobil 1 Polyurea and Schaeffer's 714 Aluminum Complex. I use just Polyurea on some, both in a cocktail and just #714 depending on speed and bearing load. Clay based greased bearings I leave as OEM filled. I DO NOT let anything Lithium in the building for the last 8 years. Even though they are rated as non compatible I have not had an issue I can see. Even Schaeffer's says you need to test the grease compatibility chart in some cases has very large wiggle room. I found the two that work good together.

I always thought polyurea grease is the red-headed [censored] child of the greases - loved by motor makers for its low noise and long life and the Japanese OEMs are a fan of it for high-temp and water resistance but it's the least compatible of the greases.

And isn't Mobil 1 Grease a lithium complex product? Unless you're referring to Mobil Polyrex EM which is a polyurea grease. As I understand from that chart, it's OK to mix lithium complex greases with most other greases, WD-40 was touting that ability with their True Multi-Purpose Grease that's calcium sulfonate based with their Li-complex ones.

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