I was wondering has anyone tried using one of those hand pumps that they sell next to where they sell the oil and gasoline containers to remove their atf before?I was thinking about sticking it through the dipstick and pumping it out.And if someone has tried this, did the plastic hold up and how many quarts did you get out compared to draining? Thanks.
pumping out atf instead of undoing drainplug?
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I've never used one of those pumps for sucking the ATF through the dipstick hole, but I think it would work okay.
Any AT I've had the pan off I can see the dipstick hole and the end of the dipstick so I think if you shove the small diameter pump hose down there until it bottoms out you should be able to suck out nearly as much fluid as removing the drain plug.
Of course, you won't get the old fluid out of the torque converter via the drain plug nor by the suction method.
Any AT I've had the pan off I can see the dipstick hole and the end of the dipstick so I think if you shove the small diameter pump hose down there until it bottoms out you should be able to suck out nearly as much fluid as removing the drain plug.
Of course, you won't get the old fluid out of the torque converter via the drain plug nor by the suction method.
I use the vacuum oil extractor all the time to replace the ATF, PS oil and Brake oil, on all my cars. It is really easy and makes no mess at all. Just insert the pipe into the Dip stick or reservoir, pump the tank a few times to create vacuum and you are done, it will suck out the oil.
The best part is that the pump extracts the same quantity of ATF, as with draining the oil through the drain plug.
I don't remember where I bought it from, it was an online store but you can Google "Oil Extractor" & you will find tons of places selling these. They come in different oil capacities and you can choose the size that best suits you. The one I have has a 6 liter capacity
The best part is that the pump extracts the same quantity of ATF, as with draining the oil through the drain plug.
I don't remember where I bought it from, it was an online store but you can Google "Oil Extractor" & you will find tons of places selling these. They come in different oil capacities and you can choose the size that best suits you. The one I have has a 6 liter capacity
We have done this once with an old 92 Grand Am that we used to have and the tube went down and seemed to bottom out and it only pulled 2 quarts out when we had got 4 quarts from a pan drop. We had a hard time with the pan drop of that car so we decided to use the dipstick method, we ended up swapping 2 quarts of transmission fluid for every oil change we did. Just had to put that out there.
What I don't understand is if it has a plug as opposed to requiring a pan drop to replace fluid, why don't you just use the plug?
What I don't understand is if it has a plug as opposed to requiring a pan drop to replace fluid, why don't you just use the plug?
I use a small battery operated pump made for changing oil in my boat while it is at sea. It comes with different size hoses for diff applications. Stuff it down into the dipstick and click it on. 2 mins later it's sucked out 5-6 qts from a total of 12 qt system.
I do this once a year and change the filter every other year.
I do this once a year and change the filter every other year.
i guess the only reason i would pump the fluid out is to minimize the mess made when dropping the pan to change the tranny filter.
Kestas
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If you have tools available to you, it would be easier and simpler to install a drain plug after the first pan drop, than to keep an extractor laying around.
I have a motor operated vacuum pump that pulls through a one quart jar. The greatest thing since sliced bread. I routinely change transmission fluid through the dipstick in my Cavalier (along with vacuum bleeding brakes and changing ps fluid). Note however that some dipsticks have a "wiper" at the base and won't allow you to insert a tube for suction.
I also use the extractor method. What a great way to change oil, PS fluid, and ATF. And I really don't care if I get every last drop out(as if you used the drain plug) because I change the fluids often.
I use a vacuum extractor that came from Griot's Garage. It works very well to extract ATF, PS fluid, brake fluid; I've even used it on differentials. Vacuum pumps are very useful on anything without a drain plug.
It helps to cut the tube end at a slight angle, to prevent the suction from pulling the tube against the bottom of whatever you're draining.
It helps to cut the tube end at a slight angle, to prevent the suction from pulling the tube against the bottom of whatever you're draining.
I used to use a siphon pump on my cavalier too, but that was very messy, as the fluid (atf, etc) would have to pass through the pump. It would keep dripping for weeks after.
Also I recall that brake fluid would swell the rubber valve and piston in the pump and that gave the pump a one way trip to the garbage can.
I have made a vacuum Extractor with a mity vac hand pump, some aquarium tubing and old juice jug. I take one cap and pierce two holes in it for the tubing. One long tube that will go to the bottom of the jug, and the other just stuck in the top about 2cm.
Connect the vacuum pump and it will gradually suck the fluid out, but not need to contact the fluid. A sturdy jar is great.
Also I recall that brake fluid would swell the rubber valve and piston in the pump and that gave the pump a one way trip to the garbage can.
I have made a vacuum Extractor with a mity vac hand pump, some aquarium tubing and old juice jug. I take one cap and pierce two holes in it for the tubing. One long tube that will go to the bottom of the jug, and the other just stuck in the top about 2cm.
Connect the vacuum pump and it will gradually suck the fluid out, but not need to contact the fluid. A sturdy jar is great.
If you have a Civic its probably like my '89 Accord and '05 Ody, ATF drain bolt has a square recess that a 3/8" ratchet drive fits right in. There is absolutely no good reason not to drain the ATF using this drain bolt while doing an oil change.
Filling, that's a different matter. On the Accord a long neck mechanic's funnel works fine for the fill/dipstick bolt. On the Ody, it's not too accessible. I fashioned a funnel with a necked down tube that fits in the dipstick hole.
Being able to easily drain and refill the ATF is a beautiful thing on a Honda (not that Honda hasn't had some AT problems which they have done a pretty good job of going the extra mile and standing behind their product - ie. their 5 speeds prior to '05 - sure hope its fixed on the '05
).
Filling, that's a different matter. On the Accord a long neck mechanic's funnel works fine for the fill/dipstick bolt. On the Ody, it's not too accessible. I fashioned a funnel with a necked down tube that fits in the dipstick hole.
Being able to easily drain and refill the ATF is a beautiful thing on a Honda (not that Honda hasn't had some AT problems which they have done a pretty good job of going the extra mile and standing behind their product - ie. their 5 speeds prior to '05 - sure hope its fixed on the '05
ex_MGB, where are your drain plugs located? The manual tells me how to drain and refill but it doesn't say where the plug is. Also, will I get three quarts or more of ATF out if it is on jack stands?
My '89 Accord gets 3.2 qts out, my '05 Ody gets 3.5 qts. I run the front up on rhino ramps and use a floor jack on the rear. after jacking up I use jack stands on rear as back-up. I put a level on the door sill when on garage floor, note position of bubble and when I jack up the rear try to get bubble position about the same.
The drain bolt (there is only one) is obviously on the transaxle down low in a small recess, (probably less that 8" from the oil drain bolt). It will be the only bolt with a square insert where you can fit a 3/8" ratchet drive into (in other words no socket needed). Just look around with a shop light, you'll find it.
Finally, the bolt will be magnetic so get the metal off it (fine grey sludge) and be sure not to lose the washer (a perfectionist would buy a new one from the dealer).
Obviously, as in all drain/fill procedures, make sure you've got the fill part covered before the drain
The drain bolt (there is only one) is obviously on the transaxle down low in a small recess, (probably less that 8" from the oil drain bolt). It will be the only bolt with a square insert where you can fit a 3/8" ratchet drive into (in other words no socket needed). Just look around with a shop light, you'll find it.
Finally, the bolt will be magnetic so get the metal off it (fine grey sludge) and be sure not to lose the washer (a perfectionist would buy a new one from the dealer).
Obviously, as in all drain/fill procedures, make sure you've got the fill part covered before the drain
after changing filter, if you have one, and cleaning pan....
drain old ATF it out the tranny cooler return line from radiator tank cooler with engine running and fill normal hole...do 2 quarts at a time...never run empty...until you've exchanged the full capacity of tranny
does gentle flush of valve body, TC and pump
would you just change 1/2 of your engine oil at a time?
no special tools needed, cheap, clean and simple
if you have screen type filter, only need to check every 100k miles
drain old ATF it out the tranny cooler return line from radiator tank cooler with engine running and fill normal hole...do 2 quarts at a time...never run empty...until you've exchanged the full capacity of tranny
does gentle flush of valve body, TC and pump
would you just change 1/2 of your engine oil at a time?
no special tools needed, cheap, clean and simple
if you have screen type filter, only need to check every 100k miles
As MN Driver said you will only get about 2 quarts out of GM vehicles. If you have a ramp and can wait for warmer weather..you can use a siphon to get it going. With clear tubing you can avoid swallowing it.
Probably bad idea, but I do it.
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