This is my first Nissan Maxima and I am concerned that I may get air trapped in the upper area of the heads and create a hot spot there and damage the heads. My Honda had a vent I could open to release most of the trapped air, but I don't see one on the NIssan. I plan on flushing the system with distilled water so I have to go thru this trapped air problem twice. Anyone here have a method that insures no or little trapped air?
How to change out the coolant on my 2007 Maxima?
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The Lisle funnel is awesome
Originally Posted by GZRider
Vq35DE (longitudinal variant) had a bleed screw near the rear of the intake manifold. You can find some good Youtube videos, your engine should be layed out transversely but have the same valve.
And as already mentioned, raise the front end so that the radiator is at the high point (use ramps, jack stands, a sloped driveway, or whatever).
From my reading, it appears these engines are notoriously tricky to bleed the air from the coolant system. I'd be curious to see how a dealer tech does it (as they'd have the most experience probably). The FSM for my G35 really only refers to adding coolant very, very slowly. No other things to do special....
Vq35DE (longitudinal variant) had a bleed screw near the rear of the intake manifold. You can find some good Youtube videos, your engine should be layed out transversely but have the same valve.
And as already mentioned, raise the front end so that the radiator is at the high point (use ramps, jack stands, a sloped driveway, or whatever).
From my reading, it appears these engines are notoriously tricky to bleed the air from the coolant system. I'd be curious to see how a dealer tech does it (as they'd have the most experience probably). The FSM for my G35 really only refers to adding coolant very, very slowly. No other things to do special....
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My old VQ35 Infiniti had a water rushing noise behind the dash after my indy replaced the radiator. I suspected he didn't fully bleed out the air, so I did the steps I listed above and the noise went away. I didn't mess with bleed screw or use any special funnel.
VQ35 usually has two bleed points, one on the pipe leading to heater core, the other on the radiator assembly. If you want to do it correctly, you must check the service manual. They usually specify an order for when to close which bleeders, usually keep both open, fill then when it starts to overflow from the first one, close it, then continue filling until it overflows from second, then close it. Then after you're "done" warming up the car, you turn the heater valve on and off and listen for sounds behind the dash, if so you repeat the steps for the bleeder screws.
Hi:
I have a 95 with the VQ30DE. I believe yours has the VQ35DE. I have done the job many times with ease since new and always use the genuine Nissan coolant by the way. There are instructions in the owners manual or you can find even more detailed instructions in the factory service manual found here on pdf.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-maxima-factory-service-manuals.html
My engine has no bleeder screws and I have done the job with a regular funnel since new but it is messy. Based on advice here, I purchased on the Lisle funnels recommended in this thread and am looking forward to using it next time. It is important to idle and periodically race the engine until the radiator fans turn on a few times. Then, after it cools down, I put the cap back on and check both the reservoir and radiator. Inevitably, it will draw a bit out of the reservoir after the first heat cycle. While the car idles with the heat and fan on, I keep a close eye on the temperature gauge too. In the past, I have had the blower fan on high but have since learned it is probably best to have it off or on low to allow the block to come up to temperature faster and therefore open the thermostat faster to get the coolant and air to the radiator sooner. By the way, there are two engine block drains (at least on my car) and the general consensus is not to mess with them. I think according to the last time I calculated this, you will get about 2/3 of the coolant out with a simple drain and fill. The service manual emphasizes VERY slow filling to avoid trapping air by just dumping in the coolant and I basically trickle in the coolant using a bucket with the 50/50 mix (use distilled) and never overwhelm how much it can take in at a time. Don't lose the little rubber gasket on the phillips head radiator drain by the way. Good luck. PS there is a great site called maxima.org that is not nearly as busy as this site and has dwindled over the years, but it is a good resource if you have specific questions about your maxima or just want to search the threads, look at the stickies, or other archived "how-to" instructions.
I have a 95 with the VQ30DE. I believe yours has the VQ35DE. I have done the job many times with ease since new and always use the genuine Nissan coolant by the way. There are instructions in the owners manual or you can find even more detailed instructions in the factory service manual found here on pdf.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-maxima-factory-service-manuals.html
My engine has no bleeder screws and I have done the job with a regular funnel since new but it is messy. Based on advice here, I purchased on the Lisle funnels recommended in this thread and am looking forward to using it next time. It is important to idle and periodically race the engine until the radiator fans turn on a few times. Then, after it cools down, I put the cap back on and check both the reservoir and radiator. Inevitably, it will draw a bit out of the reservoir after the first heat cycle. While the car idles with the heat and fan on, I keep a close eye on the temperature gauge too. In the past, I have had the blower fan on high but have since learned it is probably best to have it off or on low to allow the block to come up to temperature faster and therefore open the thermostat faster to get the coolant and air to the radiator sooner. By the way, there are two engine block drains (at least on my car) and the general consensus is not to mess with them. I think according to the last time I calculated this, you will get about 2/3 of the coolant out with a simple drain and fill. The service manual emphasizes VERY slow filling to avoid trapping air by just dumping in the coolant and I basically trickle in the coolant using a bucket with the 50/50 mix (use distilled) and never overwhelm how much it can take in at a time. Don't lose the little rubber gasket on the phillips head radiator drain by the way. Good luck. PS there is a great site called maxima.org that is not nearly as busy as this site and has dwindled over the years, but it is a good resource if you have specific questions about your maxima or just want to search the threads, look at the stickies, or other archived "how-to" instructions.
Every cooling system will trap air to some degree. It won't hurt anything. It will self evacuate as the engine goes through repeated heating and cooling cycles. Change it out. Run it until it's hot. Let it completely cool. Then check the coolant level. Chances are you'll have to add more.
After a few of these cycles it will fully evacuate all of the trapped air, and it will stabilize the level at full. Some take longer than others. It just depends on the engine, along with the amount of coolant it takes. Be sure to turn your heater on full once the thermostat opens. It will trap some air in the heater core as well.
After a few of these cycles it will fully evacuate all of the trapped air, and it will stabilize the level at full. Some take longer than others. It just depends on the engine, along with the amount of coolant it takes. Be sure to turn your heater on full once the thermostat opens. It will trap some air in the heater core as well.
You guys are really great! Your information is just what I was looking for. My biggest fear is running the engine with too little coolant in the top part of the heads and causing warpage of the heads or worse. My engine is young at 53,000 miles so I should get a lot of miles out of it if I don't mess it up due to improper service. This car is a hoot to drive and I appreciate all the time you guys spend posting these comments they help me a lot.
I have ordered a Lisle funnel and I think I will elevate the front end 8" and do a double distilled water flush then put in the Asian blue by zerex. I hope the double flush will get most all of the green coolant out. My only concern it that the coolant is already mixed 50/50 so if any of the flush is trapped in the engine it will dilute the strength to less than 50/50. It is supposed to be good for 5years/100,000 miles.
The only other thing I am concerned with is the hoses, the car is 12 yrs. old and it still has the OEM hoses on it. However the car only has 53,000 miles on the clock, I will check the condition as best as I can, but I don't want to have a leak on the road many miles from home. What do you guys think?
The only other thing I am concerned with is the hoses, the car is 12 yrs. old and it still has the OEM hoses on it. However the car only has 53,000 miles on the clock, I will check the condition as best as I can, but I don't want to have a leak on the road many miles from home. What do you guys think?
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