Just watched a utube 2014 equinox. Removed the lower trans line in radiator installed plastic line into radiator . Drained fluid from drain plug, reinstalled plug, filled trans with 5 qts. Started car plastic line drained fluid till it was sputtering shut engine off, refilled 4 qts started car drained till flow again was sputtering shut off engine. Refilled and checked level. My thought taking a.big chance of damage.
Flushing automatic trans
- Thread starter Fitter30
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I do this all the time. What's the problem?
I've done it on all the cars in my sig. Only thing different is that I drop the pan, and replace the filter. No issues on any of them
/KnockingWood
/KnockingWood
Last time I did mine I would only pump out a quart a time. I doubt running low is bad--but I don't know that--so it seemed wiser to just do one quart at a time. It comes out pretty slowly at idle, like it takes a couple minutes to pump a quart.
Originally Posted by Fitter30
Started car plastic line drained fluid till it was sputtering shut engine off, refilled 4 qts started car drained till flow again was sputtering shut off engine. Refilled and checked level. My thought taking a.big chance of damage.
Your thoughts are completely wrong.
Having been rebuilding automatic transmissions since the 1980's,
as long as you stop when you start getting bubbles - there will be no harm done whatsoever.
Started car plastic line drained fluid till it was sputtering shut engine off, refilled 4 qts started car drained till flow again was sputtering shut off engine. Refilled and checked level. My thought taking a.big chance of damage.
Your thoughts are completely wrong.
Having been rebuilding automatic transmissions since the 1980's,
as long as you stop when you start getting bubbles - there will be no harm done whatsoever.
I do it one qt at a time, pump 1 out fill one,, pump 1 out fill 1,, Been doing this for years!!!
initially I remove a line start car pump old out till sputters then pull pan there's zero mess that way.
initially I remove a line start car pump old out till sputters then pull pan there's zero mess that way.
Transmissions are not pressurized, like cooling systems for example, so even if the fluid starts sputtering with bubbles, it will purge air the moment the pan is full of ATF again. And since the vehicle is in P, no gear changes are taking place or solenoids activating, that would need ATF.
I've done numerous cooler line exchanges with no issues thus far.
I've done numerous cooler line exchanges with no issues thus far.
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I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
The one quart remove and fill is very conservative. Over the years the return line flush is exactly what the OP has penned.
Remove all ATF from inside the transmission till it trickles down to nothing - even then the transmission has 1/2 the capacity in the transmission.
Only if it can pull from the pan can it push out of the transmission.
Remove all ATF from inside the transmission till it trickles down to nothing - even then the transmission has 1/2 the capacity in the transmission.
Only if it can pull from the pan can it push out of the transmission.
Originally Posted by buck91
I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
Was the plastic line to get enough line to put into a container? I wonder if you needed a length of rubber hose and a real fitting so as to lengthen it.
Guess I've been lucky, I've had enough space under the car to shove the line into a container. I might have to jack up a bit but no extra hose required.
Although one time I did pull the wrong line and had a geyser... swap lines and all was well.
I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
Was the plastic line to get enough line to put into a container? I wonder if you needed a length of rubber hose and a real fitting so as to lengthen it.
Guess I've been lucky, I've had enough space under the car to shove the line into a container. I might have to jack up a bit but no extra hose required.
Although one time I did pull the wrong line and had a geyser... swap lines and all was well.
Utube 2014 chevy equinox trans flush Don Smith
Trans filter is built in, no pan and serviceable by removing trans.
Trans filter is built in, no pan and serviceable by removing trans.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
That is how I do my 4L80E. I just drop the pan when done. Change the filter and add what is needed.
Works really well. I have that transmission on pretty healthy schedule. With a fluid exchange as I described above every other year, with a drain and fill every other year as well.
Works really well. I have that transmission on pretty healthy schedule. With a fluid exchange as I described above every other year, with a drain and fill every other year as well.
You'd only be risking damage if you actually drive the car (trans under load) with low/no trans fluid. Sitting there idling and running the trans dry is no issue at all.
Originally Posted by DGXR
You'd only be risking damage if you actually drive the car (trans under load) with low/no trans fluid. Sitting there idling and running the trans dry is no issue at all.
What about the pump seals? The transmission pump is doing the work to move the fluid and build pressure to at least 90 psi or so (for GM older transmissions) so it's important that the seals aren't damaged.
You'd only be risking damage if you actually drive the car (trans under load) with low/no trans fluid. Sitting there idling and running the trans dry is no issue at all.
What about the pump seals? The transmission pump is doing the work to move the fluid and build pressure to at least 90 psi or so (for GM older transmissions) so it's important that the seals aren't damaged.
Originally Posted by supton
Last time I did mine I would only pump out a quart a time. I doubt running low is bad--but I don't know that--so it seemed wiser to just do one quart at a time. It comes out pretty slowly at idle, like it takes a couple minutes to pump a quart.
I try to be conservative . My thoughts pretty much go along with yours .
I read our Chevy 2015 Sonic 1.8l does not have a user serviceable filter . Not much point in dropping the pan .
The transmission case does have a drain plug and a fill to plug . In addition to a screw in cap on top to add fluid . No dipstick . :-(
Last time I did mine I would only pump out a quart a time. I doubt running low is bad--but I don't know that--so it seemed wiser to just do one quart at a time. It comes out pretty slowly at idle, like it takes a couple minutes to pump a quart.
I try to be conservative . My thoughts pretty much go along with yours .
I read our Chevy 2015 Sonic 1.8l does not have a user serviceable filter . Not much point in dropping the pan .
The transmission case does have a drain plug and a fill to plug . In addition to a screw in cap on top to add fluid . No dipstick . :-(
Originally Posted by buck91
I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
Same thing happened with the 4L60E on a 2005 Trailblazer I owned years ago. The line didn't blow off, but it pumped a 1gal jug full quicker than I could get back into the vehicle and kill the ignition. After that, I try to have a helper stay in the vehicle.
In regards to this process, I wouldn't want to keep the engine idling long if the transmission pumped itself until it's no longer pumping fluid, but like said, I think it would take a while running dry to do pump damage. Just stop when it starts to sputter/bubble to be safe.
I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
Same thing happened with the 4L60E on a 2005 Trailblazer I owned years ago. The line didn't blow off, but it pumped a 1gal jug full quicker than I could get back into the vehicle and kill the ignition. After that, I try to have a helper stay in the vehicle.
In regards to this process, I wouldn't want to keep the engine idling long if the transmission pumped itself until it's no longer pumping fluid, but like said, I think it would take a while running dry to do pump damage. Just stop when it starts to sputter/bubble to be safe.
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Originally Posted by JTK
Originally Posted by buck91
I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
Same thing happened with the 4L60E on a 2005 Trailblazer I owned years ago. The line didn't blow off, but it pumped a 1gal jug full quicker than I could get back into the vehicle and kill the ignition. After that, I try to have a helper stay in the vehicle.
In regards to this process, I wouldn't want to keep the engine idling long if the transmission pumped itself until it's no longer pumping fluid, but like said, I think it would take a while running dry to do pump damage. Just stop when it starts to sputter/bubble to be safe.
What I do to manage this is:
a) Use a long hose from the cooler line I tapped to a position ~4' outboard from the front left wheel. I can see it from the driver's seat and never leave the ignition while I watch an empty gallon milk jug fill.
b) brace the milk jug with a concrete block or such so that the fluid pressure doesn't turn it over. The jug also allow me to easily judge how much fluid has been pumped and turn the car off in time.
c) moving 3qts x 3 will get a healthy percentage of clean fluid into the unit. Way easier than multiple drain/fills over days, raising/lowering the vehicle each time, etc.
This works well for controlling the mess, judging the pump volume, etc. It's a gerotor pump and going to be coated with lube for a while even after suction runs dry - no risk of damage unless you start it and walk away and have lunch or something.
Originally Posted by buck91
I tried the plastic line method on a Tahoe... The line blew out every time I started the engine and made a huge mess.
Same thing happened with the 4L60E on a 2005 Trailblazer I owned years ago. The line didn't blow off, but it pumped a 1gal jug full quicker than I could get back into the vehicle and kill the ignition. After that, I try to have a helper stay in the vehicle.
In regards to this process, I wouldn't want to keep the engine idling long if the transmission pumped itself until it's no longer pumping fluid, but like said, I think it would take a while running dry to do pump damage. Just stop when it starts to sputter/bubble to be safe.
What I do to manage this is:
a) Use a long hose from the cooler line I tapped to a position ~4' outboard from the front left wheel. I can see it from the driver's seat and never leave the ignition while I watch an empty gallon milk jug fill.
b) brace the milk jug with a concrete block or such so that the fluid pressure doesn't turn it over. The jug also allow me to easily judge how much fluid has been pumped and turn the car off in time.
c) moving 3qts x 3 will get a healthy percentage of clean fluid into the unit. Way easier than multiple drain/fills over days, raising/lowering the vehicle each time, etc.
This works well for controlling the mess, judging the pump volume, etc. It's a gerotor pump and going to be coated with lube for a while even after suction runs dry - no risk of damage unless you start it and walk away and have lunch or something.
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