What Motul 2T 2-cycle oil and ratio for Dolmar chainsaws?

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j_mac

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I have some new Dolmar chainsaws I bought since Makita is doing away with the brand and moving everything to China. I want to use the best oil possible since I will be depending on these saws for the rest of my life. 5yrs? 25yrs?
Anyway, I've decided on a Motul 2T. The problem is there are two choices and I have no way of knowing a proper mix ratio. The two oils are their "Kart Grand Prix 2T" and "800 2T." Problem is the Kart oil is recommended all the way down to 16:1 for up to 23,000 rpm Kart engines. The other problem is the 800 2T is a motorcycle oil and I don't know if its primarily intended for 80cc or 500cc motorcycles and we know the ratio varies based on displacement.
I know neither is a chainsaw oil. But many of the hardcore chainsaw guys swear by Motul and it seems they prefer the 800 2T. But maybe a Kart engine is more similar to a chainsaw, so does the Kart oil make more sense? I know the Kart oil is intended for 100-125cc racing Kart engines.
Which oil should I pick and what ratio should I run in my chainsaws? They are 42cc, 50cc, and 61cc saws.
 
Kart oil is either castor based....or "de-gumed" castor based....you dont want that in your muffler...

800 smokes alot @3% (1:32)...I would recommend 2.5% mix (1:40)..

3% only if you will be limbing... (@WOT most of the time)
 
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Thank you Kamele0N. Thanks for the recommendations. Can you explain more on when to run 40:1 and when to run 32:1 with the 800 2T ?
Motul describes both Kart and the 800 as ester synthetics. Is Castor considered an ester? What if the spark arrestor is removed? The muffler comes apart very easily with 2 bolts and I am willing to clean it regularly. I love the castor smell anyway. Or should I just run the 800 because castor is too much of a hassle?
 
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I'd mix the 2t 800 and call it a day at 44:1 3oz per gallon. Fuel just as or more important E0 91+ octane or better yet as I do VPracing SEF or C9 storage and mix one mix in everything I own. BTW I use VPracing 2t oil 40:1 in everything Motul 710 is believed to be the oil.
 
Dave, thanks for the input. One thing you might want to look into is that when VP Fuels introduced SEF they stated that they used Motul as their supplier for the oil in their SEF pre-mix cans. But, if you read on the bottles of their new 2-cycle oils you will note it is described as "Full Synthetic." But, if you read on the can of their pre-mix SEF you will see that they describe the oil in the mix as "100% synthetic." So this would indicate that VP 2-cycle oil is a different oil than is used in the SEF pre-mix... right?
 
Motul 800 is a very robust 2 stroke oil. It (some portion of the oil) is designed not to burn in the combustion chamber and keep exhaust power valves from sticking by providing wet oil to them. Due to the nature of 800, it's a wet, Smokey oil and will often leave a mess on the muffler.

The requirements for power valve lubrication is not necessary in a chainsaw. Nor will an oil designed to lube power valves increase engine life.

For all my two stroke OPE, I choose a EG-D oil and mix at 32 to 1. Motul makes a 710t that would probably be a better choice.

As always, I like to bring up our ancient history two stroke oil testing in Mercury racing outboard engines. 32 to 1 (or more) was the ratio where engine life was maximized. 50 to 1 provided very slightly higher wear rates, and 100 to 1 resulted in significantly increased wear, regardless of oil choice.

8 to 1 provided the highest HP, but was too difficult to deal with. So 16 to1 was the HP "answer".

While outboards are generally considered low stress, we were making more than double the nameplate HP. Wear and stress were factors.
 
I'm gonna go get my fresh qt of Valvoline Multi purpose 2 stroke. $5.99 a qt at Auto Zone. Meets and exceeds NMMA/BA specs forTC-WII or TC-W3. I mix an oily 32:1. My old Stihl Farmboss loves being over oiled ,so do the 50:1 specc'ed Husq weed wackers. The mufflers drip condensed oil, but plugs don't foul, and exhaust is clear. 2 strokes love WOT Idling them can cause over heat. The Stihl doesnt have a chain brake. I lost the idle stop screw early on. If I don't blip it, it will die. I've gone through 3 starter dogs in 40 yrs. My brother has gone through 3 Stihls. I don't give a rodent's posterior for oils "so good you can run them at 100:1". Thats's just a slow form of straight gassing
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by j_mac
Dave, thanks for the input. One thing you might want to look into is that when VP Fuels introduced SEF they stated that they used Motul as their supplier for the oil in their SEF pre-mix cans. But, if you read on the bottles of their new 2-cycle oils you will note it is described as "Full Synthetic." But, if you read on the can of their pre-mix SEF you will see that they describe the oil in the mix as "100% synthetic." So this would indicate that VP 2-cycle oil is a different oil than is used in the SEF pre-mix... right?

I believe a play on words when I called technical I asked if bottled oil is same as used in SEF says yes but would not go into who's Vpracing bottled 2t oil is. I say it is Motul 710 as claimed and excellent be my go to pick.
 
I would vote for Motul 710 if you want full synthetic. The 800 has a higher flash point and is really designed for 2T bikes with power valves. I run 710 in my power valve equipped KDX200 as I ride more in the woods than wide open on a track. The 710 smokes a lot less. For my OPE I actually use the 510 which is a synthetic blend, mixed with VP C9. Great oil that burns very clean.
 
Originally Posted by ct70nut
I would vote for Motul 710 if you want full synthetic. The 800 has a higher flash point and is really designed for 2T bikes with power valves. I run 710 in my power valve equipped KDX200 as I ride more in the woods than wide open on a track. The 710 smokes a lot less. For my OPE I actually use the 510 which is a synthetic blend, mixed with VP C9. Great oil that burns very clean.
i like that combo C9 with 710 so clean what ratio you at on the OPE mix.
 
Please someone correct me if I am wrong....

But Motul 710 is the same oil as Motul Scooter Power 2T....just one is green (710) and another is red (Scooter)....everything else is the same if you are comparing its PDS
smile.gif
 
Are you really going to be running these saws enough to even think about wearing out an engine? I just buy the little $2 convenient bottles of Stihl/etc that make a gallon of mix. Those Dolmar saws are nice, I have a Made in Germany Makita.
 
hatt,
That's a good point you have there. The saws will be sitting around a GREAT deal of the time. Maybe my question should be "What 2-cycle oil leaves behind the best rust inhibitors for storage." They are likely to see more damage from atmospheric moisture than wear and tear. I'm not using the saws for work, just homesteading. Also any info on the best way to store a saw i.e. with a full fuel tank or drained and the carb purged of as much fuel as possible. Is there an after-run oil for 2 strokes? Fogging? What fuel? What oil? What procedure? ...etc.
Thanks for everyone's input
Opinions still wanted guys. Thanks.
 
Originally Posted by j_mac
hatt,
That's a good point you have there. The saws will be sitting around a GREAT deal of the time. Maybe my question should be "What 2-cycle oil leaves behind the best rust inhibitors for storage." They are likely to see more damage from atmospheric moisture than wear and tear.


Don't use Redline Racing Oil. That specific oil will actively promote corrosion. It's a very poor choice for your needs as the esters used are hygroscopic.

Just about any other oil choice will provide adequate protection against corrosion. In particular, any of the EG-D rated oils.

The suggestion above about using VP fuels C9 is a fantastic one. That fuel, combined with 710, for example, makes a long lasting combo. The fuel will never go bad, and you will never have fuel degradation in the saw. Here in South FL, it's available at the pump! But it's easy to order a 5 gallon pail of it. 96 octane, unleaded and designed to never go bad. VP claims 2 years. I've got some that's 10 years old and still fresh.

Note: another excellent oil is Castrol TT-S.
 
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I run the C9 510 mix at 50:1. I buy the C9 in 5 gal pails as the VP SE distributor is 30 minutes up the road. A pail will usually last me about 2 years of use in my OPE (trimmer, blower, edger, chain saw.
 
Originally Posted by j_mac
hatt,
That's a good point you have there. The saws will be sitting around a GREAT deal of the time. Maybe my question should be "What 2-cycle oil leaves behind the best rust inhibitors for storage." They are likely to see more damage from atmospheric moisture than wear and tear. I'm not using the saws for work, just homesteading. Also any info on the best way to store a saw i.e. with a full fuel tank or drained and the carb purged of as much fuel as possible. Is there an after-run oil for 2 strokes? Fogging? What fuel? What oil? What procedure? ...etc.
Thanks for everyone's input
Opinions still wanted guys. Thanks.

I store all my OPE with a full tank of non ethanol(50-1 Stihl syn oil in 2 stroke). I don't run the carb dry either. I haven't have a carb related issue since I started using non ethanol years ago. I might drain the gas if planning on storing something over 6 months or so.
 
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Cujet said:
TT-S doesnt exsist anymore....nowadays it is Power1 Racing... TT-S was castor based....


Castrol's website does not show any form of TTS. However, Castrol Power RS, TTS is readily available, both on Amazon and local shops. It is a full synthetic, non castor, EG-D oil.

I really can't determine if it's actually gone or not. But every place I checked has it in stock.
Click to expand...
 
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Makita recommends a 50:1 oil/fuel mix ratio. I presume the same requirements would be the same. Running a bit richer ratio such as 40 or 32:1 would be a good recommendation considering they will be stored more often then not. As for oil brand, have you looked into Klotz? I have heard great things about their oils in sleds and r/c engines.
 
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