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Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132120 06/12/19 07:49 AM
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Davejam Offline
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Yes, Idemitsu Type H Plus is specifically for Honda. Last time I needed it was in stock at advance.
Not sure how that price compares to dealer, but it is easier for me to get locally.

https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/idemitsu/atf/type-h-plus
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...fluid-1-quart-30040090-75000c/11837525-P

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: UncleDave] #5132147 06/12/19 08:19 AM
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parshisa Offline OP
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What would be recommendation for "more agressive" drain and fill routine? every 7500 or so?

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132162 06/12/19 08:38 AM
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Please read this discussion before making up your mind:

Honda DW-1 Discussion


"Dr. Larry Fleinhardt:
You know that it's considered unsolvable?
Charlie Eppes:
Well, certainly people who have failed to solve it might think that." From NUMB3RS
Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: madRiver] #5132167 06/12/19 08:41 AM
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Quote
Still under powertrain warranty? If yes DW-1 otherwise do what you feel is good.
This is good, "safe" advice. If there is one, leaves Honda one less out in worst case scenario.

As for Idemitsu H+, while it may advertise "specifically blended" for Honda, it is NOT the same as DW1 as proven by a member who had a VOA done as linked. Not saying it's not fine for DW1 applications, just not the same. Further, at the linked AAP price of ~$8/qt might as well go with DW1 imo.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4995272/voa-idemitsu-atf-type-h-plus-dw1

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132173 06/12/19 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by parshisa
What would be recommendation for "more agressive" drain and fill routine? every 7500 or so?



Something like that - your call entirely - as you are going off the Hond MM system

Your manual should tell you what the full interval will be and you can pick a halfway point to freshen up the batch with a mid-interval drain and fill and see if a few quarts of fresh fluid keeps the feel you like and returns an analysis you are comfortable with under your specific use.

Id bet with a top side changer and the right funnel a d&F is a 15 minute job.

Then you can do a full dump at the MM interval or create a schedule of continuous d&R.

Couple of ways to skin this cat.


UD


Uncle Dave
Cat 3126/2 MB3500/Titan/RX400H/17 Ridgeline
700HP V10/ 725HP BBC/ Raptor 700/ KFX450/ YZ250/Onan 8K/ Cat3011C
Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: Jimzz] #5132199 06/12/19 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimzz
I've used Maxlife in hundreds of Hondas/Acuras with great results. It holds up better than the Honda fluid, esp for the V6 SUVs/Vans.


As a guy that owns a Honda this is good information to know.
Emergency or every day alternatives are always good to know about.

Can I ask how it is that you've done this on hundreds of hondas/ acuras?

Do you own or work at an auto/lube or trans shop or something like that?

When you say it holds up better - is that based on 3rd party data on like vehicles or some other metric?

Thanks sir!

UD


Uncle Dave
Cat 3126/2 MB3500/Titan/RX400H/17 Ridgeline
700HP V10/ 725HP BBC/ Raptor 700/ KFX450/ YZ250/Onan 8K/ Cat3011C
Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: UncleDave] #5132204 06/12/19 09:32 AM
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parshisa Offline OP
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I guess my problem right now is that i can't really interpret the result of the UOA that i did get yesterday. I don't really know if 100ppm of iron accumulated over 11,000 miles on the fluid (changed at 19K on the factory fluid via 2xD&F with roughly 3.5qts being dumped each time) is too much or normal. Depending on this, I'd either have to continue what I do now (1xD&F at 10K intervals) or decrease the intervals or look into other options for the fluids.

Called the OA support and they said it's kind of normal amount of wear for Honda transmission. Searching online and on the forum gives a few UOA results but they seem to be quite lower on Iron compared to what i have. Really confused and looking for some guidance.

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132211 06/12/19 09:42 AM
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Davejam Offline
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Those are useful discussions thank you.
So, I guess back to the original question how does Maxlife compare to Honda.
And even though not asked, for my curiosity how does H+ compare to Maxlife then. If it were a choice between those 2.

On the frequency. I would say 7,500 mi is way overkill regardless of what you're using.
I think the Honda recommendation is 30,000mi, so if you did 15,000 or 20,000 that would be more than sufficient. But I wouldn't be concerned with 30,000mi if you did that from the start.

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132219 06/12/19 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by parshisa
I guess my problem right now is that i can't really interpret the result of the UOA that i did get yesterday. I don't really know if 100ppm of iron accumulated over 11,000 miles on the fluid (changed at 19K on the factory fluid via 2xD&F with roughly 3.5qts being dumped each time) is too much or normal. Depending on this, I'd either have to continue what I do now (1xD&F at 10K intervals) or decrease the intervals or look into other options for the fluids.

Called the OA support and they said it's kind of normal amount of wear for Honda transmission. Searching online and on the forum gives a few UOA results but they seem to be quite lower on Iron compared to what i have. Really confused and looking for some guidance.


Sorry cant be more help - I dont know this trans well enough myself to say what's normal or not, but its likely the analysis shop does.
Buffer that by the d&R and you should look better than " norm", but not necessarily.

Go pull down all the like trans UOAs you can find and take a look at where you are on the spectrum

Blackstone typically gives reasonable comparative data.

Trans detritus has a ton of iron it and isn't filtered very well - go look at anyone cutting open a magnafine.


UD


Last edited by UncleDave; 06/12/19 09:58 AM.

Uncle Dave
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700HP V10/ 725HP BBC/ Raptor 700/ KFX450/ YZ250/Onan 8K/ Cat3011C
Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: UncleDave] #5132229 06/12/19 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by UncleDave
Originally Posted by Jimzz
I've used Maxlife in hundreds of Hondas/Acuras with great results. It holds up better than the Honda fluid, esp for the V6 SUVs/Vans.


As a guy that owns a Honda this is good information to know.
Emergency or every day alternatives are always good to know about.

Can I ask how it is that you've done this on hundreds of hondas/ acuras?

Do you own or work at an auto/lube or trans shop or something like that?

When you say it holds up better - is that based on 3rd party data on like vehicles or some other metric?

Thanks sir!

UD




Use to be a mechanic, even ran my own shop at the end of that career. I used the Honda fluid when they got away from Dex3. But then saw issues in the V6 vehicles so looked for better fluids. Eventually Maxlife proved itself so I started to use it. Now I use that and most other LV Syn fluids with no issues.

Holds up better as did not burn up or break down, esp on the V6 accords, pilots, etc... that were burning their transmissions up under heavy usage.


I still use maxlife due to price point, but as said Castrol and other Synthetic fluids have seemed to catch up to maxlife in performance. But $18 for a gallon is hard to beat for maxlife.



Originally Posted by Davejam
Those are useful discussions thank you.
So, I guess back to the original question how does Maxlife compare to Honda.
And even though not asked, for my curiosity how does H+ compare to Maxlife then. If it were a choice between those 2.

On the frequency. I would say 7,500 mi is way overkill regardless of what you're using.
I think the Honda recommendation is 30,000mi, so if you did 15,000 or 20,000 that would be more than sufficient. But I wouldn't be concerned with 30,000mi if you did that from the start.


As someone else said H+ is not the same as what Honda sells. So I would lean toward it falling into similar performance as maxlife and most other Syn LV fluids.

30k seems to work for most Hondas. Only ones that may differ is the larger SUVs that tow/carry a lot of weight. Those I might do around 20k or so.


yup
Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: mclasser] #5132259 06/12/19 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mclasser
I used MaxLife in my Pilot (5 A/T) and didn't like it - weird flares and jerks. Went away as soon as I switched back to DW1.

OTH, ML is great in my Accord. Much snappier and positive shifts compared to lazy DW1. I'm of the opinion that ML is better suited for older Z1 applications, not DW1. 2cents


same issue in my 09 CRV. I actually thought I had a transmission problem until I replaced it with OE stuff.

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132303 06/12/19 11:49 AM
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MaxLife and Castrol Import Multi works fine in my Integra spec for Z1. It hasn't blown up yet at 265K miles.


"You keep asking questions PandaBear and you'll end up a vegetarian like my wife" - Camu Mahubah
Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132319 06/12/19 12:03 PM
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I heard Maxlife was good for Hondas, so I put it in my 2005 Odyssey at around 130,000 miles. It's at 230,000 now and still plugging along, not bad for a minivan transmission.

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: parshisa] #5132458 06/12/19 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by parshisa
What would be recommendation for "more agressive" drain and fill routine? every 7500 or so?


You certainly could and the transmission may go 300,000 miles without an issue, or at 90K you might total it and would have wasted all that time and money vs. the first change at 100K.

Re: Switching from Honda DW1 to Valvoline MaxLife [Re: PandaBear] #5132460 06/12/19 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PandaBear
MaxLife and Castrol Import Multi works fine in my Integra spec for Z1. It hasn't blown up yet at 265K miles.


Automatics rarely blow up. They usually start slipping or losing gears completely.

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