2007 Accord Advise

[maverickfhs]

So on my recently acquired Accord, at least from PO oil history is good. But for initial years, I have no clue.

So essentially I have no history for first few years, except whatever is showing up on Carfax report which is not much.

I have already done PS fluid, coolant, ATF(single drain and fill), brake fluid(fluid change from reservoir).

Have not replaced engine oil(5W20) yet, because it has some miles and life left based on OLM and oil change sticker. Is there anything I can do on engine? Like using fully synthetic(or blend or conventional) with short interval or seafoam or MMO or anything along those lines?

I have quite a few sorts of oils in my stash, including Royal purple, Valvoline platinum, magnatec, castrol edge, rotella synthetic, etc...

Thanks for the help and advise

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

IF (and it's an IF only you can answer) you are going to use anything in the fuel, use a cleaner with PEA. Techron, Gumout All-In-One fuel treatment, or Redline SI-1. Don't waste your money on Seafaux or MMO. Accord should take and run fine on any xW20, so pick away.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
IF (and it's an IF only you can answer) you are going to use anything in the fuel, use a cleaner with PEA. Techron, Gumout All-In-One fuel treatment, or Redline SI-1. Don't waste your money on Seafaux or MMO. Accord should take and run fine on any xW20, so pick away.

Yes, believe it or not Techron has already been done

 

[oil_film_movies]

Do 3 3,000 mile oil changes in a row, and it should clean out well enough.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Do 3 3,000 mile oil changes in a row, and it should clean out well enough.

I'll use conventional for it

 

[Phishin]

4 or 6 cylinder? If it has the Sixer.....need to change the timing belt most likely.
How many miles on it?

I'd suggest a 5w30 or a 0w30 for this application. Even M1 0w40 wouldn't hurt anything, or a nice cheap synthetic HDEO, like Rotella T6 5w40.

I'd do a few more D&F's on the ATF.

The coolant will need changed too.

Serpentine belt condition??

PCV Valve could probably used a replacement as well. Get one from Honda.

 

[KGMtech]

Changing the brake fluid from the reservoir is not exactly the same as a full fluid flush. What you could do is a gravity flush of the brake lines. Get the car up on 4 jackstands on level surface. Remove wheels. Spray some PB blaster or your favorite penetrating oil on the brake bleeders, wait 30 minutes. Fill up the reservoir to the top with the DOT per owners manual, place bucket at wheel, crack bleeder and let it flow for 10 minutes, always watching the level in the reservoir. Tighten bleeder valve, proceed to next wheel, repeat.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted by Phishin
4 or 6 cylinder? If it has the Sixer.....need to change the timing belt most likely.
How many miles on it?

I'd suggest a 5w30 or a 0w30 for this application. Even M1 0w40 wouldn't hurt anything, or a nice cheap synthetic HDEO, like Rotella T6 5w40.

I'd do a few more D&F's on the ATF.

The coolant will need changed too.

Serpentine belt condition??

PCV Valve could probably used a replacement as well. Get one from Honda.


Coolant is already been done, PCV is a metal one and I cleaned it well and can hear it 'clicking'

I4, miles are 151K, I have T6 5W40 laying around. Should I use that instead of 5W20 or 0W20?

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted by KGMtech
Changing the brake fluid from the reservoir is not exactly the same as a full fluid flush. What you could do is a gravity flush of the brake lines. Get the car up on 4 jackstands on level surface. Remove wheels. Spray some PB blaster or your favorite penetrating oil on the brake bleeders, wait 30 minutes. Fill up the reservoir to the top with the DOT per owners manual, place bucket at wheel, crack bleeder and let it flow for 10 minutes, always watching the level in the reservoir. Tighten bleeder valve, proceed to next wheel, repeat.

I have never done this gravity bleeding, can it push(if there's any) gunk inside those brake lines? I have plans to do full bleeding once weather warms up a bit

 

[SevenBizzos]

If the recent owner did well with the oil, then just continue with a 5W-20. I moved to HM when my Accord hit 120k for not other reason than I felt like it.

I know with the V6, 3 D&F were required to turn the ATF fully over. I did mine a week apart.

D&F the PS is probably good. Maybe do another next oil change.

I agree on bleeding the brakes. There's a lot of great YT video on how to DIY alone.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Originally Posted by SevenBizzos
I know with the V6, 3 D&F were required to turn the ATF fully over.


It's actually FOUR times; three is a common misconception (although not necessarily bad, it is not what the Honda procedure calls for). Official Honda procedure is below, pay close attention to steps 8 & 9. That's where the 4th drain and fill is found.

1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS for details. ** One D&F**
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won't shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to
Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into
Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.**D&F's #2&3**
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1. **D&F #4**

 

[KGMtech]

[/quote]
I have never done this gravity bleeding, can it push(if there's any) gunk inside those brake lines? I have plans to do full bleeding once weather warms up a bit

[/quote]

Doubt you'd have chunks in the lines for this age of Honda. Gravity bleeding is the least effective, but lowest cost way to change the fluid.

 

[maverickfhs]

For initial cleaning, I'll probably use PP Euro 5W30(meant for TDIs) and see if it clean up anything in 3K miles.

As going through Carfax, sometimes oil has been changed after like 11,000 miles no idea if a record is missing or something else. Maybe too late and it's just for peace of mind

 

[Railrust]

Aside from the fluid changes, it probably couldn't hurt to clean the throttle body...maybe get in the idle air control motor if you can. Honda also has a history of EGR tubes clogging up with carbon, maybe give that a clean if you can get to it.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted by Railrust
Aside from the fluid changes, it probably couldn't hurt to clean the throttle body...maybe get in the idle air control motor if you can. Honda also has a history of EGR tubes clogging up with carbon, maybe give that a clean if you can get to it.

Yes, I have cleaned EGR valve on my Civic successfully and will do it in spring/summer time. Great suggestion, thank you

 

[DejaVue]

Originally Posted by maverickfhs
For initial cleaning, I'll probably use PP Euro 5W30(meant for TDIs) and see if it clean up anything in 3K miles.

Is there anything to actually clean up? If under the oil filler cap looks at least pretty good, I'd just short OCI the first oil change with whatever regular oil you plan on putting in and see how things look after that.

If a certain oil is meant for TDIs, I'd need a good reason to put it in a non-TDI.

If you're bored, you can pull spark plugs and try to see how the tops of the pistons look. I've used Seafoam and things to clean piston tops, but wouldn't have bothered if they hadn't looked like a black asphalt driveway.