New Yamaha F25 motor...question on oil

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I just bought a new Yamaha F25 (25 hp) outboard less than a week ago. The motor came from my dealer with Yamalube M4 10w30 oil that I will use to break the motor in on. After 20 hours of use, it is recommended that the oil and filter be changed per the manufacturer. I will more than likely change the oil and filter somewhere between 10 and 15 hours based on how dirty it looks. My question is...should I continue with the Yamalube plain M4 10w30 oil or go with the Yamalube synthetic M4 5w30 oil. Does anyone have any experience with the synthetic in this or a similiar model motor? Is there any problems with the synthetic causing any problems with the seating of the rings or in causing the motor to make oil? I know that four cycle outboards can be prone to not seating the rings properly and/or making oil, but I wasn't sure if the use of a synthetic vs. plain oil had any effects on this. Thanks for any comments back.
 
Regardless of the oil, you should try to vary the RPM on a new engine. Rings not seating is on a boat motor is most likely cause by people who get out on the water and keep the throttle at the same position for extended periods of time.
 
From what I just read the synthetic you mention is recommend for their high performance V-6 and offshore engines. I question how big a benefit, if any, would be realized with the two cylinder 25. It is also recommended that you go the full 20 hours operating time prior to changing the oil & filter.
 
Agree with all the above reply"s. After about 10hr don't be afraid to use full throttle for a good period to seat the rings.
4 cycle outboards have a tendency to "make oil" if the rings are not seated. This motor is made to run full out.
 
Agree with all the above reply"s. After about 10hr don't be afraid to use full throttle for a good period to seat the rings.
4 cycle outboards have a tendency to "make oil" if the rings are not seated. This motor is made to run full out. Change the oil every year.
 
I'd use the dino oil for the first couple hundred hours at least. Better for setting rings and better for building up tribofilms. Then you can switch to synthetic if u want to.

Make sure to run close to WOT off and on throughout your break-in period to get those rings set. Think yamaha wants this done during first 10 hours.
 
Does the use of synthetic oil have any affect on the rings setting correctly? In other words, if you use a synthetic oil, do the rings have any more tendency to not seat correctly when compared to a dino oil? I know that this was a theory years ago, but as you know, a lot of cars come with synthetic oil from the factory and there doesn't seem to be any problems. But, I realize that an outboard can be a totally different animal than a car. Also, does the fact that outboards can make oil come totally from the rings not being seated correctly?
 
Originally Posted by BradleyB
Does the use of synthetic oil have any affect on the rings setting correctly? In other words, if you use a synthetic oil, do the rings have any more tendency to not seat correctly when compared to a dino oil? I know that this was a theory years ago, but as you know, a lot of cars come with synthetic oil from the factory and there doesn't seem to be any problems. But, I realize that an outboard can be a totally different animal than a car. Also, does the fact that outboards can make oil come totally from the rings not being seated correctly?



Who knows? All I know is that yamaha techs say to run dino for 1st couple hundred, that my rings set good using dino first 400 hours, and that some say using dino and/or 40 weight oil can eliminate making oil.

Other things can also cause making oil in yamaha outboards. Problematic injectors for example, or carbon build up from not using ring free, extensive idling, or low temp operation.
 
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