Best oil for the turbo DSM? Eclipse/Talon/Laser
- Thread starter elsmacko
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Depends on how hard you drive it, if you tracked it alot and had a bad lead foot I would say a 0w40, but in your case I would just stick with a quality synthetic 5w30/0w30 like mobile 1, Quaker state ultimate durability or pennzoil platinum (all avalible at walmart) at about a 7,500 mile OCI if your doing more highway than city. You didn't really give us a whole lot to go by either. But I wouldn't push more than 7500 miles with out getting a UOA to know you can safely go past 7k. just my 2cents though...
make sure you use a high quality filter too...
make sure you use a high quality filter too...
Well it's a daily driver,about 70-80 percent highway and 30 percent city. Varying from that to 50/50 depending on my commute at the time.
I want to stick with 10w30 because I don't want to go too thin for cold start ups in case I hit the boost before the oil gets up to temp, also 0 weight oils and 5 weight are too thin for the oil pumps in these cars I have heard.
Let me ask this; what is the walmart supertech currently made of and who makes it? I haven't been on here in a while. Turbos are hard on oil, so IMHO need a heavier oil with higher flash temps and sythn is the way to go.
I'm either gonna do a 2000-3000 mile change on budget synth or go 6000 on a higher-end oil.
So which is the best $20/jug choice from walmart or something like that for the 3k change interval? And then what would be the best for the 6000/6 mth interval?
I want to stick with 10w30 because I don't want to go too thin for cold start ups in case I hit the boost before the oil gets up to temp, also 0 weight oils and 5 weight are too thin for the oil pumps in these cars I have heard.
Let me ask this; what is the walmart supertech currently made of and who makes it? I haven't been on here in a while. Turbos are hard on oil, so IMHO need a heavier oil with higher flash temps and sythn is the way to go.
I'm either gonna do a 2000-3000 mile change on budget synth or go 6000 on a higher-end oil.
So which is the best $20/jug choice from walmart or something like that for the 3k change interval? And then what would be the best for the 6000/6 mth interval?
Hi,
elsmacko - You said this:
"I want to stick with 10w30 because I don't want to go too thin for cold start ups in case I hit the boost before the oil gets up to temp, also 0 weight oils and 5 weight are too thin for the oil pumps in these cars I have heard."
I respectfully suggest that you spend some more time researching the material concerning your comments readily avaiable here on BITOG
elsmacko - You said this:
"I want to stick with 10w30 because I don't want to go too thin for cold start ups in case I hit the boost before the oil gets up to temp, also 0 weight oils and 5 weight are too thin for the oil pumps in these cars I have heard."
I respectfully suggest that you spend some more time researching the material concerning your comments readily avaiable here on BITOG
Get a good synthetic that meets the HTO-06 spec for turbos like Mobil 1, Pennzoil...
Like Doug H hinted at, A 0w or 5w will not be "too thin at startup" just somewhat less too thick
"I want to stick with 10w30 because I don't want to go too thin for cold start ups in case I hit the boost before the oil gets up to temp, also 0 weight oils and 5 weight are too thin for the oil pumps in these cars I have heard."
Before oil gets up to normal temps it's thicker than 10w-30. Don't race the engine when oil is still cool.
You can run 5w in winter. You should run synthetic blend like Motorcraft or Valvoline Durablend for a budget o/c, and full synthetic like Mobil 1 Extended or Quaker State for higher end o/c.
Before oil gets up to normal temps it's thicker than 10w-30. Don't race the engine when oil is still cool.
You can run 5w in winter. You should run synthetic blend like Motorcraft or Valvoline Durablend for a budget o/c, and full synthetic like Mobil 1 Extended or Quaker State for higher end o/c.
Follow the manufactures oil weight recommendation. They have the data to back up their recommendation. I choice Pennzoil Platinum because it meets the Honda/Acura spec for turbo charged engines ( 5w30 wt only). M-1 also meets the Honda spec.
Your is first gen or second gen dsm ?
way before I move to american car, I own 3 dsm, 2 second gen and 1 first gen. 4G63 engine love 10w30 oil. STICK WITH 10W30 OIL WEIGHT AND NOTHING ELSE !
For your tranmission if it 5 speed, use 1 quart of redline shock proof gear oil and the rest is pennzoil syncromesh this is home made mix recomment by best tranmission builder john shepherd
or run Red Line Manual Transmission Lube MTL (Transmission)
Red Line Heavy weight Shock Proof Gear gear oil for X-fer case, rear diff ( if your is AWD version )
NGK plug ONLY and mitsubishi spark plug wire, I use to change plug every oil change. its very easy, 4 plug, and everything is coming from the top.
Get greddy turbo timming, and set it for 1 min after turn off the key, so the car still running 1 min after u take the key off
UNPLUG CLUTCH STARTER SWITCH IF YOU A SECOND GEN DSM ! start the car without using clutch to prevent crank walk ^^
check for boost leak every oil change, their a home made tool you can build at home depot for 10 dollar to check for boost leak.
DO NOT CHANGE OIL EVERY 5K+ CHANGE IT OFTEN ON THESE ENGINE, 4G63 is not like any other engine, I do not want get bash for recomment u change oil early as 3k miles, but I know it from owning these engine for few year, go to the forum below and speak with the peoples that know about these type of car, its require alot maintaince. Say Killa send you.
Go to this forum, I learn everything from that forum, many peoples are move on to different car now, but still have many still stay with dsm no matter how much money pit its. I still miss mind alot
I learn how to take care car and keep maintaince it because of the dsm, cause dsm need ALOT attention and maintaince.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=343
way before I move to american car, I own 3 dsm, 2 second gen and 1 first gen. 4G63 engine love 10w30 oil. STICK WITH 10W30 OIL WEIGHT AND NOTHING ELSE !
For your tranmission if it 5 speed, use 1 quart of redline shock proof gear oil and the rest is pennzoil syncromesh this is home made mix recomment by best tranmission builder john shepherd
or run Red Line Manual Transmission Lube MTL (Transmission)
Red Line Heavy weight Shock Proof Gear gear oil for X-fer case, rear diff ( if your is AWD version )
NGK plug ONLY and mitsubishi spark plug wire, I use to change plug every oil change. its very easy, 4 plug, and everything is coming from the top.
Get greddy turbo timming, and set it for 1 min after turn off the key, so the car still running 1 min after u take the key off
UNPLUG CLUTCH STARTER SWITCH IF YOU A SECOND GEN DSM ! start the car without using clutch to prevent crank walk ^^
check for boost leak every oil change, their a home made tool you can build at home depot for 10 dollar to check for boost leak.
DO NOT CHANGE OIL EVERY 5K+ CHANGE IT OFTEN ON THESE ENGINE, 4G63 is not like any other engine, I do not want get bash for recomment u change oil early as 3k miles, but I know it from owning these engine for few year, go to the forum below and speak with the peoples that know about these type of car, its require alot maintaince. Say Killa send you.
Go to this forum, I learn everything from that forum, many peoples are move on to different car now, but still have many still stay with dsm no matter how much money pit its. I still miss mind alot
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=343
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run a synthetic 5/30 like synpower, PP, or M1 with 5k oci
if your gonna rag on it step up to a euro 5 or 0w 40 with 3k oci
a 10/30 is not a good choice, especially if its dino
also its a good idea to put hoseclamps on every vacuum hose. i saw a guy pick up one pound of boost just from hoseclamps
if your gonna rag on it step up to a euro 5 or 0w 40 with 3k oci
a 10/30 is not a good choice, especially if its dino
also its a good idea to put hoseclamps on every vacuum hose. i saw a guy pick up one pound of boost just from hoseclamps
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M1 0w-40 is a perfect oil for that motor. Slightly thin for a 40w, and full of the good stuff. I don't know if I would go 6k miles on a turbo motor though.
I feel if the boost is stock the engine is normally very durable. It's only the guys who run the boost up to crazy levels that have issues with this motor. Normally a pretty good engine design.
I feel if the boost is stock the engine is normally very durable. It's only the guys who run the boost up to crazy levels that have issues with this motor. Normally a pretty good engine design.
I would not run any other weight oil than what's recommended by Mitsubishi, which is 10W-30. I wouldn't listen to the recommendations here other than MetalSlug. DSM engines are a different breed. I myself run Valvoline Maxlife 10W-30 Synthetic Blend in my stock, no mods, 1991 Eclipse GSX with around 5000 oil and filter change intervals.
Originally Posted by racerviii
Oh I know. Just for future reference in case any DSM owners out there happen upon this thread.
Which is you and about a dozen people. The truth is it does not matter as long as a modern 30 or 40 grade is used. Every API certified oil on the market is better than what was available nearly 3 decades ago.
Oh I know. Just for future reference in case any DSM owners out there happen upon this thread.
Which is you and about a dozen people. The truth is it does not matter as long as a modern 30 or 40 grade is used. Every API certified oil on the market is better than what was available nearly 3 decades ago.
Originally Posted by racerviii
Oh I know. Just for future reference in case any DSM owners out there happen upon this thread.
Which is you and about a dozen people. The truth is it does not matter as long as a modern 30 or 40 grade is used. Every API certified oil on the market is better than what was available nearly 3 decades ago.
Oh I know. Just for future reference in case any DSM owners out there happen upon this thread.
Which is you and about a dozen people. The truth is it does not matter as long as a modern 30 or 40 grade is used. Every API certified oil on the market is better than what was available nearly 3 decades ago.
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