Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Danno said:
Mobil1 0W-20 AFE, 8634 miles, 2011 Honda CR-V
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Originally Posted by Danno
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Danno said:PP may counteract that oil control ring concern.
What evidence is there that PP does anything more for cleaning ringlands than anything else, except Valvoline Premium Blue Restore (VVBR) of course, which is purposely formulated for just that effect? If anything, the high POE in Redline would get you cleaner ringlands, which is part of the patents and IP the VVBR is known for. .... PP is no better for cleaning ringlands than any other dexos1 Gen2 oil on the market, according to any evidence, which should count in a discussion.
Rings are a component of pistons - correct?
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/educ...LzIwMTZuZXdzbGV0dGVyLz9sb2NhbGU9ZW5fdXM=
I'm hoping you caught the part in that advertising fluff that states KEEPS clean, it's not B12 chemtool, it's not going to dissolve deposits that are already there. As for the Pennzoil fluff, I made this graphic years ago when this first started circulating:
![[Linked Image]](http://www.darkfibrecommunications.com/photos/PUM1.png "[Linked Image]")
Weird how Mobil actually shows us all six pistons and Pennzoil only shows one eh? It's almost like they cherry picked the worst one (top right) from the results to compare it to their best one, which looks like the middle-left Mobil piston, to come up with the number...
I will say one thing, their advertising works. Your comments prove it.
Don't tell me companies make exaggerated claims... Lol. Just waiting for a post like yours OK.
OP here...
Alot of good (and conflicting) advice given. Our 2011 CR-V so far has not exhibited any obvious problems or concerns so far (knock on wood) at less than 60000 miles. The engine still runs as smooth as the day I bought it and there has been no observable oil consumption. Therefore, I will stay the course and continue to use the Mobil1 0w-20 AFE. I ran out of my stash of OEM Honda filters (the "better A01). I will switch to the Fram Ultra and will definitely do another UOA on my next oil change to reassure myself that the lead levels are not going to spike up. Like I stated, I am likely going to trade this car in 3 years or so and my gut feeling is that the car will be OK for at least that long (likely for much much longer than that).
Anyways, thanks for all the replies!
Originally Posted by gregk24
The excessive oil consumption is caused by using poor quality fuels, and high rpm/load before engine fully warming up (per Honda). As long as you use top tier fuel and let your engine warm up before romping on the gas, you should be ok.
Our CR-V has been fueled up exclusively with Top Tier gas (yeah Costco!) and always gently driven, so that is reassuring.
Alot of good (and conflicting) advice given. Our 2011 CR-V so far has not exhibited any obvious problems or concerns so far (knock on wood) at less than 60000 miles. The engine still runs as smooth as the day I bought it and there has been no observable oil consumption. Therefore, I will stay the course and continue to use the Mobil1 0w-20 AFE. I ran out of my stash of OEM Honda filters (the "better A01). I will switch to the Fram Ultra and will definitely do another UOA on my next oil change to reassure myself that the lead levels are not going to spike up. Like I stated, I am likely going to trade this car in 3 years or so and my gut feeling is that the car will be OK for at least that long (likely for much much longer than that).
Anyways, thanks for all the replies!
Originally Posted by gregk24
The excessive oil consumption is caused by using poor quality fuels, and high rpm/load before engine fully warming up (per Honda). As long as you use top tier fuel and let your engine warm up before romping on the gas, you should be ok.
Our CR-V has been fueled up exclusively with Top Tier gas (yeah Costco!) and always gently driven, so that is reassuring.
Stick with 0w-20, easier on the timing chain and tensioner
Stick with the M1 0w20. It's been amazing in a couple Honda Fit engines I've been around.
Have you had the cooling system flushed yet? Overflow tank topped off? Random thought is all.
I agree with those saying test again with the SAME oil, but get a TBN in the report as well.
Have you had the cooling system flushed yet? Overflow tank topped off? Random thought is all.
I agree with those saying test again with the SAME oil, but get a TBN in the report as well.
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
No reason to change what you are doing, it is working fine.
If you want to stay with A01's you can get them on Amazon, and can also get HAMP which are the same thing.
If you want to stay with A01's you can get them on Amazon, and can also get HAMP which are the same thing.
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
IMHO, at 10000 miles OCI both would be equally good and either oils shows no superiority than the other in UOA's.
However, AFE 0W20 product sheet does declares it's sulfated ash at 0.8% and TBN at 8.8, whilst there isn't relevant disclosure from PP 0W20.
Besides I'd seen impressive AFE 0W20 UOA's at 15000 - 18000 miles and would love to be provided with links to PP 0W20 15-18k UOA's for comparisons.
Edit:Hence as it is, my vote goes to AFE 0W20 over PP 0W20.
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
IMHO, at 10000 miles OCI both would be equally good and either oils shows no superiority than the other in UOA's.
However, AFE 0W20 product sheet does declares it's sulfated ash at 0.8% and TBN at 8.8, whilst there isn't relevant disclosure from PP 0W20.
Besides I'd seen impressive AFE 0W20 UOA's at 15000 - 18000 miles and would love to be provided with links to PP 0W20 15-18k UOA's for comparisons.
Edit:Hence as it is, my vote goes to AFE 0W20 over PP 0W20.
Last edited:
OP,
I wouldn't change a thing. I use M1 AFE 0w-20 in my '11 and in my '07 K series accord before that. I think it's a great oil for Honda K series motors. You have a nice UOA there. Don't worry about 4 more PPM, it is insignificant. Do a few more UOAs with the same oil, following the MM interval, and observe trends. Might check a TBN once in a while. My TBN is usually in the low 3s with a change interval of around 6500 miles. I would not extend OCI beyond what the MM calls for.
I wouldn't change a thing. I use M1 AFE 0w-20 in my '11 and in my '07 K series accord before that. I think it's a great oil for Honda K series motors. You have a nice UOA there. Don't worry about 4 more PPM, it is insignificant. Do a few more UOAs with the same oil, following the MM interval, and observe trends. Might check a TBN once in a while. My TBN is usually in the low 3s with a change interval of around 6500 miles. I would not extend OCI beyond what the MM calls for.
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
IMHO, at 10000 miles OCI both would be equally good and either oils shows no superiority than the other in UOA's.
However, AFE 0W20 product sheet does declares it's sulfated ash at 0.8% and TBN at 8.8, whilst there isn't relevant disclosure from PP 0W20.
Besides I'd seen impressive AFE 0W20 UOA's at 15000 - 18000 miles and would love to be provided with links to PP 0W20 15-18k UOA's for comparisons.
Edit:Hence as it is, my vote goes to AFE 0W20 over PP 0W20.
You are right, PP doesn't show the sulfated ash, but some had said it's about 1.3%, because of the high detergent it has. But that doesn't really have that much of effect on the car.
The TBN on the PP on the PQIA website, does show it has lower TBN numbers by a little. But if one changes their oil every 5k, I don't think it would a problem.
I am more concerned about cold start ups and how well the oil can handle it's viscosity at high and low temperature changes. Which would oxides faster, which would burn less oil, which would run smoother and etc...
Since your vote is AFE, would you consider using Mobil 1 EP instead?
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
IMHO, at 10000 miles OCI both would be equally good and either oils shows no superiority than the other in UOA's.
However, AFE 0W20 product sheet does declares it's sulfated ash at 0.8% and TBN at 8.8, whilst there isn't relevant disclosure from PP 0W20.
Besides I'd seen impressive AFE 0W20 UOA's at 15000 - 18000 miles and would love to be provided with links to PP 0W20 15-18k UOA's for comparisons.
Edit:Hence as it is, my vote goes to AFE 0W20 over PP 0W20.
You are right, PP doesn't show the sulfated ash, but some had said it's about 1.3%, because of the high detergent it has. But that doesn't really have that much of effect on the car.
The TBN on the PP on the PQIA website, does show it has lower TBN numbers by a little. But if one changes their oil every 5k, I don't think it would a problem.
I am more concerned about cold start ups and how well the oil can handle it's viscosity at high and low temperature changes. Which would oxides faster, which would burn less oil, which would run smoother and etc...
Since your vote is AFE, would you consider using Mobil 1 EP instead?
I've used both AFE/EP 0w20 over the last 55,300 miles in my car. Both are great. The friction modifiers are a bit different in the AFE and I believe the AFE is the best cold weather 0w20 on the market. Both have a Noack around 10.5% which pretty good. I'd continue to use the AFE. IF, SA has an impact on intake valve deposits, that's another reason to stick with Mobil 1.
Originally Posted by buster
I've used both AFE/EP 0w20 over the last 55,300 miles in my car. Both are great. The friction modifiers are a bit different in the AFE and I believe the AFE is the best cold weather 0w20 on the market. Both have a Noack around 10.5% which pretty good. I'd continue to use the AFE. IF, SA has an impact on intake valve deposits, that's another reason to stick with Mobil 1.
Can you point to me where did you get the reference AFE has bettery friction modifiers and is best for cold weather?
I had watch on youtube a man demonstrating all type of syn oils and Pennzoil and Mobil has the best cold pour. It was very interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXcf5g85Dzs
I've used both AFE/EP 0w20 over the last 55,300 miles in my car. Both are great. The friction modifiers are a bit different in the AFE and I believe the AFE is the best cold weather 0w20 on the market. Both have a Noack around 10.5% which pretty good. I'd continue to use the AFE. IF, SA has an impact on intake valve deposits, that's another reason to stick with Mobil 1.
Can you point to me where did you get the reference AFE has bettery friction modifiers and is best for cold weather?
I had watch on youtube a man demonstrating all type of syn oils and Pennzoil and Mobil has the best cold pour. It was very interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXcf5g85Dzs
Unless you get PP for less than M-1 there is no reason to change.
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
IMHO, at 10000 miles OCI both would be equally good and either oils shows no superiority than the other in UOA's.
However, AFE 0W20 product sheet does declares it's sulfated ash at 0.8% and TBN at 8.8, whilst there isn't relevant disclosure from PP 0W20.
Besides I'd seen impressive AFE 0W20 UOA's at 15000 - 18000 miles and would love to be provided with links to PP 0W20 15-18k UOA's for comparisons.
Edit:Hence as it is, my vote goes to AFE 0W20 over PP 0W20.
You are right, PP doesn't show the sulfated ash, but some had said it's about 1.3%, because of the high detergent it has. But that doesn't really have that much of effect on the car.
The TBN on the PP on the PQIA website, does show it has lower TBN numbers by a little. But if one changes their oil every 5k, I don't think it would a problem.
I am more concerned about cold start ups and how well the oil can handle it's viscosity at high and low temperature changes. Which would oxides faster, which would burn less oil, which would run smoother and etc...
Since your vote is AFE, would you consider using Mobil 1 EP instead?
Yes, absolutely as EP 0W20 has 0.8% SA and fair amounts of Moly and Boron.
..... in response, belatedly.
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by zeng
Agree with sticking to AFE 0W20 for its generally good metal wear rates.
OP may consider further extending OCI, if OLM hasn't touch 0 percent, to say 10k miles.
Would Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 be good or better as Mobil 1 AFE?
IMHO, at 10000 miles OCI both would be equally good and either oils shows no superiority than the other in UOA's.
However, AFE 0W20 product sheet does declares it's sulfated ash at 0.8% and TBN at 8.8, whilst there isn't relevant disclosure from PP 0W20.
Besides I'd seen impressive AFE 0W20 UOA's at 15000 - 18000 miles and would love to be provided with links to PP 0W20 15-18k UOA's for comparisons.
Edit:Hence as it is, my vote goes to AFE 0W20 over PP 0W20.
You are right, PP doesn't show the sulfated ash, but some had said it's about 1.3%, because of the high detergent it has. But that doesn't really have that much of effect on the car.
The TBN on the PP on the PQIA website, does show it has lower TBN numbers by a little. But if one changes their oil every 5k, I don't think it would a problem.
I am more concerned about cold start ups and how well the oil can handle it's viscosity at high and low temperature changes. Which would oxides faster, which would burn less oil, which would run smoother and etc...
Since your vote is AFE, would you consider using Mobil 1 EP instead?
Yes, absolutely as EP 0W20 has 0.8% SA and fair amounts of Moly and Boron.
..... in response, belatedly.
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by buster
I've used both AFE/EP 0w20 over the last 55,300 miles in my car. Both are great. The friction modifiers are a bit different in the AFE and I believe the AFE is the best cold weather 0w20 on the market. Both have a Noack around 10.5% which pretty good. I'd continue to use the AFE. IF, SA has an impact on intake valve deposits, that's another reason to stick with Mobil 1.
Can you point to me where did you get the reference AFE has bettery friction modifiers and is best for cold weather?
.... in the form of Moly and Boron in its VOA.
Originally Posted by buster
I've used both AFE/EP 0w20 over the last 55,300 miles in my car. Both are great. The friction modifiers are a bit different in the AFE and I believe the AFE is the best cold weather 0w20 on the market. Both have a Noack around 10.5% which pretty good. I'd continue to use the AFE. IF, SA has an impact on intake valve deposits, that's another reason to stick with Mobil 1.
Can you point to me where did you get the reference AFE has bettery friction modifiers and is best for cold weather?
.... in the form of Moly and Boron in its VOA.
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