ECCPP Timing Belt Kits, Acceptable for the Impoverished ?

[Scanoe]

I did a Forum Search for ECCPP, it did not turn up much.

I have an 2003 Mitsubishi Galant, 2.4L, Auto Trans. I bought the Galant at 219k Miles, it now has 268k. According to the previous owner the Timing Belt was changed at 194k.

Therefore there is roughly 74k Miles on the present Timing Belt. I had a local shop inspect the Timing Belt about 7k Miles ago, their opinion was not to drive it more then 10k Miles with the present belt.

Due to many other factors I'm strapped for Cash at this time but badly need this Galant's Timing Belt Change.

I Deliver Pizza for Pizza Hut 5 Days a week causing the Miles to add up quickly.

This ECCPP Timing Belt Kit is $60 w/Free Shipping. ECCPP Amazon Link

The more Logical choice of a Kit would be Rock Auto Dayco Link
That Dayco for $165 Shipped.

I really don't want to spend $165 at this time, so am Wondering if that ECCPP Kit is Good Enough for 30k Miles or so ?

Thanks in Advance

 

[BrownBox88]

I have the ECCPP kit currently installed on another Galant with the same motor as yours, in my household. The owner isn't going to let it go the full 60k change interval, but instead change it around 35,000 to 40,000 miles as safe measure. The water pump it comes with is made in china, the seals look almost identical to OEM and the pulleys are smooth.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Remember that cheap timing belts cost the same amount of time/labor/money/effort to install as a good TB.

The ONLY logical choice is to get the Aisin kit. Amazon has one on their warehouse deals for under $200. Part number TKM-001

OK fine, the MOST logical choice would be to get a car that has a timing chain.

IF you plan on keeping your Galant for any length of time, get the Aisin kit. If you're just looking to get by until you can get a car with a timing chain, then you cna get something cheap.

 

[Jimzz]

Probably ok if installed well. I would not trust it a full lifespan, mostly the pulleys/water pump more than the belt.

 

[supton]

Hmm, if you could do the work your self then sure, why not. Or if you plan to sell the car after 30k or so. If this is long term though then I wonder if you're not just paying twice for labor--if you used quality parts you'd put off the job for 2x or 3x the time.

 

[FlyNavyP3]

If you're paying to have the work done saving $100 on the kit is a fools errand. If you're doing it yourself and will change it again at a shorter interval or dispose of the car before changing it again sure buy the cheap kit. I can't see the economics of saving $100 on the cheap kit only to pay to have it installed and not trust it.

 

[Scanoe]

If this Galant had less Miles, it currently has near 270k, I would then consider spending more money on it such as an Aisin

When I bought this Galant at 219k it was previously owned by someone whom was far from a Mechanic. Although not abused it wasn't exactly properly maintained. Right after I bought it I had a Shop do a Machine Flush of the Transmission (I've since learned that Machine Flushes aren't suggested on Old Transmissions that were not kept up properly). The Fluid that came out was so dark it literally looked like Used Motor Oil. It was entirely obvious it was still using the Stock Tranny Fluid at 219k, if not the stock fluid it couldn't have been changed more then once.

I had the Shop put in a can of Seafoam Trans-Tune after the Flush (I as well had put in 1 can of the Trans-Tune a couple hundred miles before the Flush). The Tranny slipped from 2nd to 3rd for many miles. Finally after I had put 25k Miles after the Flush I decided to go have it Flushed again, but this time I decided I would add Lubegard Platinum after the Flush. This 2nd Flush again produced Used Oil like color, although only half as bad as the 1st Flush
After about 3 Months of Pizza Delivery with the Lubegard Platinum the Slipping finally disappeared. Now a days the Tranny runs fine but who knows for how long.
Also the Engine goes thru about 1 Quart of Engine Oil per 1,000 Miles (I think the Culprit is the Valve Guides) and that's whilst using Semi-Synthetic High Mileage Oil with Changes every 3 to 4k Miles. Plus I add 1/2 Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the Crank at every Oil Change and add 6 ounces of Marvel to every Gas Tank Fill up.

So I figure it will only be on the road for another couple years, at max, considering also the Struts are still the original, as is the Exhaust System, plus the Suspension/Steering needs a few parts replaced. I only payed $1k for the Galant so I've already received my 'Money's Worth' many times over.

So buying parts for what's minimally needed makes sense for i'm guessing it's not going to last much past 300k Miles.

I've since bought a 1998 Accord with only 155k Miles on it as my 'new' pizza delivery vehicle, but I keep this Galant running as a Temporary Back-Up. If i could put off the Timing Belt Change for another month, I would buy that 60k Mile-Warranted Rock Auto Dayco Kit w/Seals, but i have to do the Belt this week.

 

[Scanoe]

By the Way. I, and a long time auto mechanic friend will be doing all the work in a Garage, so the Labor and Supplies will be less then $100.

I may just drive the Galant til this ECCPP System fails then sell it to a Junk Yard. The Main Consideration is the Transmission, if at 30k Miles from now it still runs as good as it does, I'll opt for another Belt Change, throw in a Cylinder Head Rebuild and happily head toward the 1/2 Million Mile Club

 

[nthach]

If that Mitsu uses the 4G64 or 4G63 engine(I'm researching a TB for a beater Eclipse a friend bought from the impound auctions in SF), the water pump is driven off the accessory drive and there are two timing belts - one drives the balancer shaft and oil pump, one drives the cams. I usually replace the hydraulic tensioners - but in many cases they can be reused if it's not leaking silicone oil, you need to press in the tensioner's rod slowly with a press or vise, a few mm at a time.

I'd throw in a Gates kit sans the water pump and tensioner.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1301906&cc=1398977&jsn=470

 

[brages]

I would just skip the TB change and drive what you have until it fails, IF it fails. Most of the timing belt components I have replaced looked ready for another 100k miles.

You are tight on funds, you already have a backup, the Galant only cost you $1k and it's burning oil at a high rate.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Scanoe
If this Galant had less Miles, it currently has near 270k, I would then consider spending more money on it such as an Aisin

When I bought this Galant at 219k it was previously owned by someone whom was far from a Mechanic. Although not abused it wasn't exactly properly maintained. Right after I bought it I had a Shop do a Machine Flush of the Transmission (I've since learned that Machine Flushes aren't suggested on Old Transmissions that were not kept up properly). The Fluid that came out was so dark it literally looked like Used Motor Oil. It was entirely obvious it was still using the Stock Tranny Fluid at 219k, if not the stock fluid it couldn't have been changed more then once.

I had the Shop put in a can of Seafoam Trans-Tune after the Flush (I as well had put in 1 can of the Trans-Tune a couple hundred miles before the Flush). The Tranny slipped from 2nd to 3rd for many miles. Finally after I had put 25k Miles after the Flush I decided to go have it Flushed again, but this time I decided I would add Lubegard Platinum after the Flush. This 2nd Flush again produced Used Oil like color, although only half as bad as the 1st Flush
After about 3 Months of Pizza Delivery with the Lubegard Platinum the Slipping finally disappeared. Now a days the Tranny runs fine but who knows for how long.
Also the Engine goes thru about 1 Quart of Engine Oil per 1,000 Miles (I think the Culprit is the Valve Guides) and that's whilst using Semi-Synthetic High Mileage Oil with Changes every 3 to 4k Miles. Plus I add 1/2 Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the Crank at every Oil Change and add 6 ounces of Marvel to every Gas Tank Fill up.

So I figure it will only be on the road for another couple years, at max, considering also the Struts are still the original, as is the Exhaust System, plus the Suspension/Steering needs a few parts replaced. I only payed $1k for the Galant so I've already received my 'Money's Worth' many times over.

So buying parts for what's minimally needed makes sense for i'm guessing it's not going to last much past 300k Miles.

I've since bought a 1998 Accord with only 155k Miles on it as my 'new' pizza delivery vehicle, but I keep this Galant running as a Temporary Back-Up. If i could put off the Timing Belt Change for another month, I would buy that 60k Mile-Warranted Rock Auto Dayco Kit w/Seals, but i have to do the Belt this week.
The hard part about maintaining heaps is figuring out how long you are going to keep them and using that to determine maintenance. You have another car, you might as well drive it until she pops. It's going to the scrapyard when you are done with it either way.

Save the worrying for when you get a car that's worth fixing. If you can't do the belt by yourself (my very first DIY job on my very first car was a timing belt, it's not that hard on a four cylinder) I would put the money elsewhere.

Nice to see someone having luck with LG Platinum. I've only seen positive reviews of LG red.

 

[14Accent]

Originally Posted by brages
I would just skip the TB change and drive what you have until it fails, IF it fails. Most of the timing belt components I have replaced looked ready for another 100k miles.

You are tight on funds, you already have a backup, the Galant only cost you $1k and it's burning oil at a high rate.



This is the best advice. Who cares if it fails? I doubt it will. The 4g64 is a great motor and isn't particularly hard on timing belts. Just run that bad boy until it snaps, which I would wager is at LEAST another 50k miles, as long as it doesn't get oil soaked by a failed cam or crank seal.