Issues using push lock hoses for oil cooler

[JHZR2]

I wanted to replace the oil cooler lines on my 1981 MB 240D. Was already doing other maintenance, one connection was seeping a bit, and the rubber was original...

These lines are notoriously difficult to maneuver in and out, even with the engine lifted and an engine mount out. Many owners find other approaches to replace the flexible line section.

I went to my local Parker store and got Parker 836, which is good for oil at pressure to 300F. Nice and flexible. But it's a push lock design. The pressure rating is great and apparently the barbs are VERY aggressive...

Would anyone have reservations running these? OE was one continuous line with the flexible sections crimped to the hard line. The brazed on fittings was a custom job for these.

 

[StevieC]

I never like push lock for anything. When I worked at Ecolab we used a lot of these in low PSI water applications and they would harden over time and start leaking. With all that heat going on I could see this happening as well. I would go with metal all all the way or metal crimped into Neo-hose. JMO.

 

[jhellwig]

Put a hose clamp on it and call it good.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by jhellwig
Put a hose clamp on it and call it good.


Or heat shrink tubing over it.

 

[Trav]

No problem at all just install an Oeteker clamp on each fitting for additional security. Parker can do it in 2 min if you dont have the tool or clamps.

 

[TurboTravis]

ZERO concerns with this, as long as you are using the manufacturers approved fittings for that hose (which is typically their own brand). The only time that I have seen a pushlock hose begin to fail where a braided/solid one would of held up was using them as a drain line for a turbocharger-the rubber cannot handle the heat from the nearby exhaust housing for a long time. I never saw one fail, however the rubber did start to split. Use without hesitation anywhere else on a vehicle! I feel that Aeroquip is the best quality example of pushlock, however Parker is also a good choice.

 

[dlundblad]

Custom cut air compressor lines use this setup. ~90-120 PSI issue free all day long.

 

[Trav]

I should add the type of clamp I am thinking of can be opened to install, it has hooks that fit into slots on one side once fitted crimp the ear.
More for peace of mind than anything as you seem worried about it, those fittings wont come apart.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by dlundblad
Custom cut air compressor lines use this setup. ~90-120 PSI issue free all day long.
Probably a decent amount of heat, too depending on configuration/proximity to compressors or coolers.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by Trav
I should add the type of clamp I am thinking of can be opened to install, it has hooks that fit into slots on one side once fitted crimp the ear.
More for peace of mind than anything as you seem worried about it, those fittings wont come apart.



Yeah I dont know if I am worried about it; but I always value peer review. As I think about it, my concern is less the push lock portion, and more the fact that I added two new threaded joints to the OE design. If I lose a hose, Ill lose a lot of oil fast and it could mean the engine would be toast before I saw oil pressure loss (granted its a mechanical gauge). Other folks in the "community" have done such things as this, but you never know if they encountered issue, or if they are long-enough timers with a car to report it under their watch.

I think the barbs are very aggressive, and I selected the best hose for the job. Folks making hydraulic lines may not care as much; not sure if there's as much on the line for many hydraulic systems... Sure, stop work is huge $$$, but I mean that the engine is in play here...