2011 F-150 Ecoboost timing chain replacement

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Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
70k on a friggin timing chain???????? Chains should be until EOL!!!



Common misconception. They wear (some call it stretch), and it pushes important timing off.


Originally Posted By: gregk24
Is it really necessary to remove the cab from the frame to access timing chain?


I was wondering the same thing... That's insane, and I sure dont see why it would.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Is it really necessary to remove the cab from the frame to access timing chain?


I was wondering the same thing... That's insane, and I sure dont see why it would.



When it is so fast and easy to do and allows so much easier access it makes sense. It is common to do on diesels, especially when pulling heads.
 
Seems ridiculous to pull the cab--but by golly, talk about easy access to the motor (just going off the pic). No leaning over fenders? Looks impossible for a DIY'er but a no brainer for a shop that can afford whatever is required to lift the cab.
 
Originally Posted By: double vanos
117k miles on mine, no problems yet, but I’ve been running 0w40 Edge since around 30-40k miles. OCIs are anywhere between 4K-7k. Quiet as a mouse. Ecoboost engines like a good stout oil. KJSmith has gone the full IOM on his trucks up to 100k miles on Magnatec ; I don’t recall him mentioning chain problems. Agree that it could be a combination of mediocre oils and long OCIs.



My '13 had 147k when I traded it off.
I tried to follow the OLM as much as possible.
No timing chain issues.

Occasionally, I would hear the rattle. Usually on a cold start..... not very often.
I just attributed that two a hung anti siphon or some other temporary issue that would cause the tensioner to relax.

The truck in this case is not driven very much.
I wonder if that is a contributor.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
With variable valve timing and camshaft position sensors shouldn’t an engine be able to compensate for some timing chain wear?


Not very much.....VVT is the reason for such close monitoring of the Cam-Crank relation.
Advancing the cam timing Decreases the Intake Valve to Piston clearance.
Retarding the cam timing Decreases the Exhaust Valve to Piston clearance.

When the Cam Crank relation gets far enough off, A correlation code sets....And VVT operation is canceled/suspended. The ECM is protecting the engine from pistons hitting valves
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
With variable valve timing and camshaft position sensors shouldn’t an engine be able to compensate for some timing chain wear?


The tensioner takes the slack out of the chain... that is the compensation.
When the chain is replaced, everything it touches should be changed also.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
With variable valve timing and camshaft position sensors shouldn’t an engine be able to compensate for some timing chain wear?


Not very much.....VVT is the reason for such close monitoring of the Cam-Crank relation.
Advancing the cam timing Decreases the Intake Valve to Piston clearance.
Retarding the cam timing Decreases the Exhaust Valve to Piston clearance.

When the Cam Crank relation gets far enough off, A correlation code sets....And VVT operation is canceled/suspended. The ECM is protecting the engine from pistons hitting valves


Think I’m happy enough with two 5.3L GM’s …
 
Yikes. At least in PP, 5-30 is the only weight that gets the Ford certification. 10-30 doesn't carry it. So for warranty mine will be on 5-30 for those 36000 miles. As soon as it's past, mine is moving to 10-30. Period.

-m
 
Pulling the cab on a ford truck is cake. I prefer these kinds of repairs cab off. I work on mostly diesels and many in depth engine repairs are far easier with cab removed.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
With variable valve timing and camshaft position sensors shouldn’t an engine be able to compensate for some timing chain wear?


Not very much.....VVT is the reason for such close monitoring of the Cam-Crank relation.
Advancing the cam timing Decreases the Intake Valve to Piston clearance.
Retarding the cam timing Decreases the Exhaust Valve to Piston clearance.

When the Cam Crank relation gets far enough off, A correlation code sets....And VVT operation is canceled/suspended. The ECM is protecting the engine from pistons hitting valves


Think I’m happy enough with two 5.3L GM’s …


GM engineers stuck with pushrod engines for a number of very good reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
With variable valve timing and camshaft position sensors shouldn’t an engine be able to compensate for some timing chain wear?


Not very much.....VVT is the reason for such close monitoring of the Cam-Crank relation.
Advancing the cam timing Decreases the Intake Valve to Piston clearance.
Retarding the cam timing Decreases the Exhaust Valve to Piston clearance.

When the Cam Crank relation gets far enough off, A correlation code sets....And VVT operation is canceled/suspended. The ECM is protecting the engine from pistons hitting valves


Think I’m happy enough with two 5.3L GM’s …


GM engineers stuck with pushrod engines for a number of very good reasons.


Yeah, I think primarily their track record with OHC ones. Northstar and the head bolts coming out of the block, the HF V6 drinking out and eating timing chains...etc. While their pushrod engines haven't been perfect (easy LSx's and piston slap, AFM lifter failure) they definitely have a far better reputation, mainly one that regards them as long-lasting and reasonably problem-free.

There certainly is something to be said for the simplicity and compact nature of a pushrod mill.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Seems ridiculous to pull the cab--but by golly, talk about easy access to the motor (just going off the pic). No leaning over fenders? Looks impossible for a DIY'er but a no brainer for a shop that can afford whatever is required to lift the cab.


Truck cabs are not that hard to pull. Probably harder to not smash the bed in the process when it is still on the truck. My experience is with a GMT400 but I imagine they are even easier to pull nowadays. Think of it as a second hood!

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Yeah, I think primarily their track record with OHC ones. Northstar and the head bolts coming out of the block, the HF V6 drinking out and eating timing chains...etc. While their pushrod engines haven't been perfect (easy LSx's and piston slap, AFM lifter failure) they definitely have a far better reputation, mainly one that regards them as long-lasting and reasonably problem-free.

There certainly is something to be said for the simplicity and compact nature of a pushrod mill.


I think the compact nature is what really made the LSx a legend. GM could put them into more vehicles, then enthusiasts could extract them and put them into even more vehicles.
GM best V8s!
 
OH MY you say the factory REALLY thinks thats a good way to build it? OH MY O forgot its ford. never mind.
 






Everything went smoothly today! As you can see, the original chain was quite stretched, evident by the tensioner being almost completely extended. Should have her back up and running tomorrow, I got held up because Ford sent me the wrong valve cover gaskets.
 
Scratch that. She's up and running! It fired right up and settled into a sweet idle with almost no clatter at all.

One more test drive tomorrow and she'll be ready to deliver. I'm ready to move on!
 
very nice work. engine looks great inside too. Do you think the new chain guides will last any longer or will they wear quickly too?
 
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Scratch that. She's up and running! It fired right up and settled into a sweet idle with almost no clatter at all.

One more test drive tomorrow and she'll be ready to deliver. I'm ready to move on!


How much if you don't mind.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Scratch that. She's up and running! It fired right up and settled into a sweet idle with almost no clatter at all.

One more test drive tomorrow and she'll be ready to deliver. I'm ready to move on!


How much if you don't mind.



12.3 hr + parts.

So around $1800 in labor by itself.
 
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