I have an air cooled R1100S with the factory oil cooler. The bike has 3000 miles and I wanted to switch to M1 15W50 but the daeler said not to. He said just to stick with the BMW brand 20W50 dino. He claims that its very good oil and has the proper additive package for the air cooled boxer engine. I was wondering if this is good advice? My question is, since an air cooled engine would be harder on oil, why wouldn't I want to use a fully synthetic oil?
Oil for a BMW R1100S
- Thread starter Bumper
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Bumper,
You're gonna find that the vast majority of dealers, mechanics, auto parts store workers, etc, etc. really know little to nothing about oil, although they will tell you stuff all day long...
In regards to your engine, yes, using a group IV/V fully-synthetic PCEO is a much better choice in comparison to a mineral-based 20w-50 PCEO/Motorcycle oil.
PCEO - Passenger Car Engine Oil.
You're gonna find that the vast majority of dealers, mechanics, auto parts store workers, etc, etc. really know little to nothing about oil, although they will tell you stuff all day long...
In regards to your engine, yes, using a group IV/V fully-synthetic PCEO is a much better choice in comparison to a mineral-based 20w-50 PCEO/Motorcycle oil.
PCEO - Passenger Car Engine Oil.
Is the dealer telling you not to use synthetic oil or to stick with BMW oils? If I recall correctly, BMW has their own synthetic oil.
As for the Mobil 1 15W50, it should work quite well in your BMW. According to Mobil, the newest formulation has some friction modifiers that could cause clutch slippage in wet clutch bikes but you bike uses a dry clutch.
In terms of engine protection, it shouldn't be a problem but the newest Mobil 1 15W50 has the SL API rating. At one time BMW was claiming that anything other than API SH rated oil would void a warranty. All indications are that Mobil's SL is at least as good and probably better than their SH/SJ formulation.
As for the Mobil 1 15W50, it should work quite well in your BMW. According to Mobil, the newest formulation has some friction modifiers that could cause clutch slippage in wet clutch bikes but you bike uses a dry clutch.
In terms of engine protection, it shouldn't be a problem but the newest Mobil 1 15W50 has the SL API rating. At one time BMW was claiming that anything other than API SH rated oil would void a warranty. All indications are that Mobil's SL is at least as good and probably better than their SH/SJ formulation.
I would never, ever run a mineral-based PCEO in this engine.
The only mineral-based oil I would consider is a HDEO 15w-40
I ran Mobil 1 15W-50 in my '01 R1100S (Omex cams, BBPower chip, Staintunes) from 6000 miles on. Up to then I used Castrol GTX with no apparent harm. I posted a UOA of the most recent interval on Mobil 1.
I'm running Delo 400 15W-40 now while its cooler and will post a UOA for that in about a month when the bike hits 21,000 miles.
This engine is pretty tolerant of about anything as long as you follow the recommended viscosity charts.
You can't go wrong with Mobil 1, but the conventional wisdom is to run the bike for 10-15k miles on dino to get it broken in well then switch to synthetic. Based on my experience you can switch sooner.
The BMW oil is good stuff but pretty overpriced like most motorcycle specific oils.
I'm running Delo 400 15W-40 now while its cooler and will post a UOA for that in about a month when the bike hits 21,000 miles.
This engine is pretty tolerant of about anything as long as you follow the recommended viscosity charts.
You can't go wrong with Mobil 1, but the conventional wisdom is to run the bike for 10-15k miles on dino to get it broken in well then switch to synthetic. Based on my experience you can switch sooner.
The BMW oil is good stuff but pretty overpriced like most motorcycle specific oils.
Jeez.
Lots of experts here.
go to BMWsporttouring.com.
Do a search for oil analysis. I think you will find some great analysis of the Mobil 1 15w50 in the R259 engine.
BTW. I ran approx 10,000 mile intervals using Amsoil 10w40. That is what I would recommend for this application.
You will have more power and better cooling with the 10w40 compared to the 20w50.
Lots of experts here.
go to BMWsporttouring.com.
Do a search for oil analysis. I think you will find some great analysis of the Mobil 1 15w50 in the R259 engine.
BTW. I ran approx 10,000 mile intervals using Amsoil 10w40. That is what I would recommend for this application.
You will have more power and better cooling with the 10w40 compared to the 20w50.
imo, a synthetic oil is not needed in this engine. the dual oil coolers coupled with copious ammounts of finned block area provide a very good cooling effect on the oil. oils in this engine just to not get that hot and are not stressed out very much.
save youre money on the syn, and invest it in a really good transmission lube and tires.
save youre money on the syn, and invest it in a really good transmission lube and tires.
Thanks for all of the help fellas. I think that I'm gonna use BMW20W50 dino until 6,000miles then switch over to mobil 1 15W50. The BMW 20W50 synthetic is $9 per quart at my dealer
!!! I'll let you know how it goes.
Hi,
there was a previous thread on this
This bike as mentioned earlier will be MUCH better off on a 5w-40 oil ( refer your Handbook for Approved/Special oils ). A HDEO is best
The thermostatically controlled oil cooler is the trick ( opens at 90C ) and the best oil you can buy will last a long time in this application
I used Delvac 1 5w-40 in mine with excellent results
The bike is very tolerant of its lubricants
and a move to quality lighter synthetics for the gearbox and final drive are WELL warranted
An ex. happy BMW boxer bike owner
Regards
Doug
'02 Subaru Outback 2.5 manual (Delvac 1)
'98 BMW Z3 2.8 manual (Delvac 1)
'89 Porsche 928 S4 Auto (Delvac 1)
there was a previous thread on this
This bike as mentioned earlier will be MUCH better off on a 5w-40 oil ( refer your Handbook for Approved/Special oils ). A HDEO is best
The thermostatically controlled oil cooler is the trick ( opens at 90C ) and the best oil you can buy will last a long time in this application
I used Delvac 1 5w-40 in mine with excellent results
The bike is very tolerant of its lubricants
and a move to quality lighter synthetics for the gearbox and final drive are WELL warranted
An ex. happy BMW boxer bike owner
Regards
Doug
'02 Subaru Outback 2.5 manual (Delvac 1)
'98 BMW Z3 2.8 manual (Delvac 1)
'89 Porsche 928 S4 Auto (Delvac 1)
If I were to use less than a 10w I would for sure take a sample at a shorter interval say 3,000-4000. I had some minor shear after a 9400 mile interval with the Amsoil 10w40. My actually preference for this bike would be Amsoil's 15w40 AME, price to performance can't be beat. I guess the 15w50 would be along those same lines.
Good luck.
Hi,
mssparks - please read "molechaser's" post
We are/were both users of these bikes and I know them very well - I cannot speak for him but his bike's "mods" speak for themselves
The engine's large oil capacity combined with the oil filter which is extremely good on these engines and the oil cooler which is ducted for efficiency makes for an easy ride for the oil
The thermostat is mostly open in traffic and closed on the open road except at a high ambient
They also loose heat quickly due to the ducted heads, alloy construction and etc.
No need to sample as the oil should be changed at BMW's intervals - it is about 4 litres or so and easy to do
I actually ran Castrol SLX (GC) 0w-30 in mine and it ran a little cooler. My oil cooler worked less with the lighter oils which BMW recommends and these are easier on the electric starter!
GC was taken out in favour of;
DELVAC 1 5w-40,
due to the 45C temps where I live and it was driven quite hard in the summer
Regards
Doug
mssparks - please read "molechaser's" post
We are/were both users of these bikes and I know them very well - I cannot speak for him but his bike's "mods" speak for themselves
The engine's large oil capacity combined with the oil filter which is extremely good on these engines and the oil cooler which is ducted for efficiency makes for an easy ride for the oil
The thermostat is mostly open in traffic and closed on the open road except at a high ambient
They also loose heat quickly due to the ducted heads, alloy construction and etc.
No need to sample as the oil should be changed at BMW's intervals - it is about 4 litres or so and easy to do
I actually ran Castrol SLX (GC) 0w-30 in mine and it ran a little cooler. My oil cooler worked less with the lighter oils which BMW recommends and these are easier on the electric starter!
GC was taken out in favour of;
DELVAC 1 5w-40,
due to the 45C temps where I live and it was driven quite hard in the summer
Regards
Doug
Doug,
How much differnt is the S compared to my R? I can't see that it's much different both are 1100's I would say that my r would be easier on oil as it's less power.
I'm just reporting my experiece with the R259 Boxer engine and the oil's that I used. I had some minor shearing when using Amsoil's 10w40, so I would image that the delvac would be equal to if not less shear stable than the 10w40.
BTW my temps that I rode in were when I lived in El Paso Texas(desert southwestern USA) Winter temps of 25 degress F to over 110 degrees.
Hi,
msparks - that is the point, the BMW handbook's Approved/Special oils permit the lighter grades
and the same lubricants are recommended for both
The change interval recommended by BMW with these oils should be followed even with the large capacity, cooler and filter. If this is done then shearing will not be an issue
Many of these engines do 100k+ with very minimal maintenance
Regards
Doug
msparks - that is the point, the BMW handbook's Approved/Special oils permit the lighter grades
and the same lubricants are recommended for both
The change interval recommended by BMW with these oils should be followed even with the large capacity, cooler and filter. If this is done then shearing will not be an issue
Many of these engines do 100k+ with very minimal maintenance
Regards
Doug
why? my father runs his r1100 really hard, often at speeds over 100mph for hours at a time. hes got more miles than i can remember on that bike, and it runs great on dino. we reciently replaced a headgasket and the insides of that engine were about the cleanest i have ever seen in my life.
isnt this sort of a contradiction?
because right before that, you typed
so on one hand, the bike is easy on the lube, and then you say a synth is a good step up?
please explain.
Hi,
cryptokid - the 5w-40 is much easier on the starter and does provide much better cooling characteristics than heavier oils. A synthetic HDEO will also assist the durablity of the engine when operated "hard" at high ambient temperatures
The use of synthetic lubricants in the driveline makes quite a difference. This bike does NOT have an integrated gearbox so specialised quality lubricants can be used here.
Frictional losses are less and the shift quality is greatly improved especially when cold. OCI's can become "filled for life" on the whole of the BMW's driveline
Regards
Doug
cryptokid - the 5w-40 is much easier on the starter and does provide much better cooling characteristics than heavier oils. A synthetic HDEO will also assist the durablity of the engine when operated "hard" at high ambient temperatures
The use of synthetic lubricants in the driveline makes quite a difference. This bike does NOT have an integrated gearbox so specialised quality lubricants can be used here.
Frictional losses are less and the shift quality is greatly improved especially when cold. OCI's can become "filled for life" on the whole of the BMW's driveline
Regards
Doug
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