2017 Best Value 5" ~ 6" DA Orbital Polisher ?

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Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
While its more money, it gives someone who wants to keep their car looking nice, with a bit more correction capability than a standard DA unit, while still being very gentle and easy to use, with no real danger. Especially with a nice soft, no-cut pad.


The more correction the polisher does to the finish the more clear coat wears off. Then it keeps getting corrected a few times until the hair, thin clear/paint fades away to primer. We've all seen cars like that around esp the darker ones. All it takes is one bad car wash or clearing the car of snow, etc to swirl it up again. Kind of like a cat chasing it's tail.

I like the gentle approach. One of the most knowledgeable guys on here who works on cars for a living including doing auto body will correct it once after painting. Then just focus on keeping it clean, contaminate free and protected. Unless it's a garage queen or a museum piece no reason to keep correcting it. Paint/CC thickness is more important imo. Because once you wear through it, new paint time which can cost thousands.

I remember my neighbor's 1998 black Accord that started to fade on the top services down to the primer around the 9 yr mark. When it was 3 years old or so a car wash "detailed it" with one of those big HD polishers. Not sure if it was a rotary or not. Looked great after words but at what cost. Most of the top of it needed a repaint when he sold it at the 10 year mark. He now has a bright red 08 Saturn Astra that I've detailed since new every year. The finish looks great at the 10 year mark.


This ^. A good car wash soap, clean and gentle mitt with a bucket guard and separate washing supplies for the wheels and under rocker panels and lower bumpers will go a long way in keeping the paint in great shape for many years without any polishing at all.
Automatic car washes, improper/careless washing techniques, failure to remove bird droppings and sap and not wiping the car dry are the main contributors to swirls, water spots and paint damage which leads owners to polish the paint right off the car over time.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
While its more money, it gives someone who wants to keep their car looking nice, with a bit more correction capability than a standard DA unit, while still being very gentle and easy to use, with no real danger. Especially with a nice soft, no-cut pad.


The more correction the polisher does to the finish the more clear coat wears off. Then it keeps getting corrected a few times until the hair, thin clear/paint fades away to primer. We've all seen cars like that around esp the darker ones. All it takes is one bad car wash or clearing the car of snow, etc to swirl it up again. Kind of like a cat chasing it's tail.

I like the gentle approach. One of the most knowledgeable guys on here who works on cars for a living including doing auto body will correct it once after painting. Then just focus on keeping it clean, contaminate free and protected. Unless it's a garage queen or a museum piece no reason to keep correcting it. Paint/CC thickness is more important imo. Because once you wear through it, new paint time which can cost thousands.

I remember my neighbor's 1998 black Accord that started to fade on the top services down to the primer around the 9 yr mark. When it was 3 years old or so a car wash "detailed it" with one of those big HD polishers. Not sure if it was a rotary or not. Looked great after words but at what cost. Most of the top of it needed a repaint when he sold it at the 10 year mark. He now has a bright red 08 Saturn Astra that I've detailed since new every year. The finish looks great at the 10 year mark.


We are talking a flex - a gear driven random orbital polished, not a hd rotary.

As you can select the pad and the chemical, it's quite possible to have no correction, no cut, and just be applying product. It will never cut like a rotary, even with a very aggressive pad and polish. And let's not ignore that you do correct even with a PC 7424. Use a cutting pad and compound and it will correct, just not as well IMO as the flex.

The flex gives options for ergonomics and operations that are much tougher on a pc type ro. There's really not much else to it. You can damage or excessively wear paint with a pc, and you can carefully correct with something more aggressive than a flex.

I agree that minimizing the need to correct is job #1, then doing th minimum necessary. You don't want to be removing thin clears and paint. But that's why I prefer the SiO2 coatings which don't even really get touched for upkeep after the first application of the main product. It is all about minimizing touches.
 
The Flex is very good quality and well worth the money if longevity, smoothness and performance are of any importance, they will last a pro many years and occasional users a lifetime.
In Germany any angle grinder/sander is commonly referred to as a flex regardless of brand name as in "take a flex and cut that that excess rod off".

Personally I prefer a clay bar and a good paste wax built up over time. Just to point out the obvious but when you remove a swirl or scratch you are actually removing all the paint be it clear or color for single stage paints down to the level of the scratch.
Many times I will gently prep a small area that has a scratch that has not gone through to the primer and mix thin clear and apply it with a very small touch up gun then use a blending clear to flatten it out before giving it a light polish.

This maintains the overall integrity of the paint thickness without a full re-coat and is fairly easy and quick to do. Airbrushing and blending scratches that have gone though is also possible but it involves a lot more skill.
 
What is a touch up gun? I like that idea a lot.... though I have to ask, why not touch up with color, either first or only? Do you do anything to level it?
 
I use the Iwata LPH80 with a 1.0 needle, a LPH50 with an 0.4 and 0.6 needle and a G3 with an 0.3 needle for scratch and touch up work. My main full size color gun is the Iwata Supernova gold cap and the Iwata Bellaria for clear.
You can get guns in all sizes and price levels for all sorts of jobs but the LPH 80 and LPH 50 are my favorites for small stuff.

I will have to do a full write up on how to do it properly so the paint adheres properly and looks right without too much finishing.
If the scratch is still in the clear coat there is no point in using color to touch up the scratch, that's just asking for an ugly scar in the panel.
If its through to the primer or metal then color/clear/primer is needed. Its not easy and there is a lot to learn but its not beyond the determined DIY who is willing to practice and invest a few bucks for decent tools, high quality tools do make a difference doing this sort of work.

When the weather is warmer I will scratch a few old panels and go through the steps from simple colors through some horrific pearls on how to touch them up/blend them for nice long lasting results without full panel refinishing.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
We are talking a flex - a gear driven random orbital polished, not a hd rotary.

As you can select the pad and the chemical, it's quite possible to have no correction, no cut, and just be applying product. It will never cut like a rotary, even with a very aggressive pad and polish. And let's not ignore that you do correct even with a PC 7424. Use a cutting pad and compound and it will correct, just not as well IMO as the flex.

The flex gives options for ergonomics and operations that are much tougher on a pc type ro. There's really not much else to it. You can damage or excessively wear paint with a pc, and you can carefully correct with something more aggressive than a flex.

I agree that minimizing the need to correct is job #1, then doing th minimum necessary. You don't want to be removing thin clears and paint. But that's why I prefer the SiO2 coatings which don't even really get touched for upkeep after the first application of the main product. It is all about minimizing touches.


I forgot that you've applied the coating products to the cars. What about clay barring? I remember in the past that you've mentioned never doing that before. It's super easy once you get the hang of it. Just a slight learning curve involved but a must for spring clean up. You can even get a nano sponge that does the same thing on Autogeek for $13 or so. Car wash soap can be the lubricant. So wash, rinse, soap up panel, glide sponge over the area, rinse or wipe clean with plush MF towel.

Fine Grade Nano Sponge

Various Clay Options on Amazon
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
I use the Iwata LPH80 with a 1.0 needle, a LPH50 with an 0.4 and 0.6 needle and a G3 with an 0.3 needle for scratch and touch up work. My main full size color gun is the Iwata Supernova gold cap and the Iwata Bellaria for clear.
You can get guns in all sizes and price levels for all sorts of jobs but the LPH 80 and LPH 50 are my favorites for small stuff.

I will have to do a full write up on how to do it properly so the paint adheres properly and looks right without too much finishing.
If the scratch is still in the clear coat there is no point in using color to touch up the scratch, that's just asking for an ugly scar in the panel.
If its through to the primer or metal then color/clear/primer is needed. Its not easy and there is a lot to learn but its not beyond the determined DIY who is willing to practice and invest a few bucks for decent tools, high quality tools do make a difference doing this sort of work.

When the weather is warmer I will scratch a few old panels and go through the steps from simple colors through some horrific pearls on how to touch them up/blend them for nice long lasting results without full panel refinishing.


Wow! I get that takes a lot of skill..........


Respectfully,

Pajero!
 
I like my GRIOTS
cheers3.gif
 
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