Recent Topics
1971 VW bus. No hose clamps on fuel filter. Fire
by wrcsixeight
04/27/18 01:41 AM
Toyota's Insistence on using ATF in power steering
by alcyon
04/27/18 01:04 AM
200 Mobil Gas Stations coming to Canada
by Snagglefoot
04/26/18 10:13 PM
Brake Pads 2003 Jetta 1.8
by maxdustington
04/26/18 09:56 PM
Any low cal high mag high zinc 5w40's out there?
by Roland1
04/26/18 09:17 PM
straight-weight 20 oil
by OilUzer
04/26/18 08:38 PM
supertech 15W40 5.3 Chevy
by mobilaltima
04/26/18 08:38 PM
Tokyo Roki 15208AA130 - 4708km
by VolkswagenFox21
04/26/18 08:37 PM
Shell Helix Ultra 0W40, 3070Km, Fiat Barchetta
by Popsy
04/26/18 07:39 PM
Marijuana on the left coast
by Snagglefoot
04/26/18 07:24 PM
Ubuntu 18.04 LTS and derivatives are out!
by uc50ic4more
04/26/18 07:21 PM
Cooper CS5'
by gabriel9766
04/26/18 07:07 PM
Zero Turn Front Tires
by AirgunSavant
04/26/18 06:50 PM
$1,000 in rewards/cash back from Chase Bank
by 04SE
04/26/18 06:15 PM
My Life with a Nurse:
by MolaKule
04/26/18 04:32 PM
No start string trimmer
by Whimsey
04/26/18 04:08 PM
HOME REMEDIES Zinc Oxide Folk Remedy- funny
by CourierDriver
04/26/18 01:39 PM
Additive Chemistry Components III
by MolaKule
04/26/18 12:33 PM
Explosion at refinery in Superior, WI.
by john_pifer
04/26/18 12:08 PM
F1 - 2018 Azerbaijan Grand Prix
by gofast182
04/26/18 11:56 AM
Newest Members
Rafaelon, kylek162, Budd33, Jekyll, Superfede
64860 Registered Users
Who's Online
25 registered (4WD, 1080, AnthemBassMan, BlueOvalFitter, Char Baby, 901Memphis), 849 Guests and 60 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
64860 Members
68 Forums
282418 Topics
4715163 Posts

Max Online: 3590 @ 01/24/17 08:07 PM
Donate to BITOG
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >
Topic Options
#4491073 - 08/17/17 01:29 PM Oil for Winter Storage
Building3 Offline


Registered: 04/30/17
Posts: 75
Loc: Michigan
I know for flat tappet engines a high zinc oil is mandatory. This site has many recommendations from which to choose. However, what about long-term/winter storage of cars that need the high zinc oil? For instance, those of us who own muscle cars and 1960's era cars in the upper mid-west need to have them out of the snow and cold for 2 to 5 months. So to prevent bearing wear upon start-up in the spring after months of storage: 1. Is it better to have a 0w, 5w or 10w oil, or a "heavier" 15w to 20w oil in the engine upon start-up? 2. Is synthetic oil or conventional Dino oil preferred in this situation? Thanks!

Top
#4491088 - 08/17/17 01:44 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
kschachn Offline


Registered: 12/26/05
Posts: 9130
Loc: Upper Midwest
In cold situations one would never want the oil any thicker than it already is, so as low a "W" number as you can get is desirable. Oil is immensely more thick at low temperatures compared to operating temperature. Remember that the "W" rating is a cold cranking specification not a viscosity, so there are no situations where a 10W, a 5W or a 0W oil is ever too thin per that rating. It is the other number that would make the oil too thin at operating temperature.

And a question, I thought flat tappet engines only required high ZDDP for break-in, not for continued operation?
_________________________
1994 BMW 530i, 225K
1996 Honda Accord, 268K
1999 Toyota Sienna, 389K
2000 Toyota ECHO, 265K

Top
#4491096 - 08/17/17 01:50 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: kschachn]
redbone3 Offline


Registered: 06/09/12
Posts: 645
Loc: Reno, NV
Use an oil appropriate to the temperature you expect on removal from storage.
_________________________
2014 Passat Wolfsburg, 1995 Miata.

Top
#4491101 - 08/17/17 01:53 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
andyd Offline


Registered: 09/25/04
Posts: 6894
Loc: Marshfield , MA
I've started 20w50 dino down to 10F. On the 528e, I just added a pint of MMO to winterize them.
_________________________
'16 Camry LE STP synth 0w20 and STP filter. the Fridge

1994 Ranger ,the Rat, 5w30 dino, STP filter

'16 Camry SE, Valvoline bulk 0w20 and ? filter

Top
#4491105 - 08/17/17 01:58 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: redbone3]
kschachn Offline


Registered: 12/26/05
Posts: 9130
Loc: Upper Midwest
Originally Posted By: redbone3
Use an oil appropriate to the temperature you expect on removal from storage.

This is correct, I apologize I didn't read the OP's question correctly where the car is just sitting for the winter and not being started. As long as it is above freezing it isn't going to make much difference at all what the W rating is.
_________________________
1994 BMW 530i, 225K
1996 Honda Accord, 268K
1999 Toyota Sienna, 389K
2000 Toyota ECHO, 265K

Top
#4491116 - 08/17/17 02:10 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: kschachn]
Building3 Offline


Registered: 04/30/17
Posts: 75
Loc: Michigan
Thanks for the several quick replies. Maybe I confused the question by talking about the cold. The temperatures will always be above freezing during storage and during start-up and initial use in the spring. What I am most concerned about is bearing wear and getting oil to the main bearings so that they are not starved for oil upon initial staring after 2-5 months of sitting idle. Any suggestions on oil or starting procedures would be appreciated. Thanks!

Top
#4491118 - 08/17/17 02:11 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
newbe46 Offline


Registered: 01/19/17
Posts: 185
Loc: Ontario, Canada
The first couple of years after I bought the M3, I would put fresh dino oil (5w30 or 10w30) for winter storage and I do not start the engine until spring. Only then I would drain the storage oil and put the 10w60 (synthectic) back.

Over the year I have become more lazy. Right now I would just leave the same oil I have in the summer until the next spring and put fresh oil in.
_________________________
2003 E46 M3 Convertible
2004 Odyssey EX-L
2004 Impreza TS Wagon

Top
#4491122 - 08/17/17 02:15 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
HemiHawk Offline


Registered: 03/09/16
Posts: 771
Loc: PA,US
Originally Posted By: Building3
Thanks for the several quick replies. Maybe I confused the question by talking about the cold. The temperatures will always be above freezing during storage and during start-up and initial use in the spring. What I am most concerned about is bearing wear and getting oil to the main bearings so that they are not starved for oil upon initial staring after 2-5 months of sitting idle. Any suggestions on oil or starting procedures would be appreciated. Thanks!


I think its been discussed here before that a car that has sat for years, maybe even decades, still had oil on the components when the engines were opened.

What I do with my car that gets garaged for longer periods of time is cycle the engine without it starting. In modern manual cars you can depress the gas pedal fully when turning the ignition and it wont fire. This cycles the engine at cranking speeds to hopefully move some oil around prior to firing. I guess on an older car removing spark or fuel would essentially do the same thing.
_________________________
2016 Nissan Frontier Pro4x
2017 VW GTI sport
1997 Jeep GC 4.0

Top
#4491138 - 08/17/17 02:33 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: HemiHawk]
newbe46 Offline


Registered: 01/19/17
Posts: 185
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: HemiHawk
Originally Posted By: Building3
Thanks for the several quick replies. Maybe I confused the question by talking about the cold. The temperatures will always be above freezing during storage and during start-up and initial use in the spring. What I am most concerned about is bearing wear and getting oil to the main bearings so that they are not starved for oil upon initial staring after 2-5 months of sitting idle. Any suggestions on oil or starting procedures would be appreciated. Thanks!


I think its been discussed here before that a car that has sat for years, maybe even decades, still had oil on the components when the engines were opened.

What I do with my car that gets garaged for longer periods of time is cycle the engine without it starting. In modern manual cars you can depress the gas pedal fully when turning the ignition and it wont fire. This cycles the engine at cranking speeds to hopefully move some oil around prior to firing. I guess on an older car removing spark or fuel would essentially do the same thing.



That's interesting. I have heard people manual cranking the engine while the car is in storage to keep most of the moving parts lubricated.

You mention depressing the gas pedal fully when turning the ignition and the engine won't fire. Do you mean depressing the clutch?

I always wonder how important it is to crank the engine during winter storage. I have heard both sides of the argument and I'm at the point where I don't even know which side to take.
_________________________
2003 E46 M3 Convertible
2004 Odyssey EX-L
2004 Impreza TS Wagon

Top
#4491155 - 08/17/17 02:55 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: newbe46]
kschachn Offline


Registered: 12/26/05
Posts: 9130
Loc: Upper Midwest
Originally Posted By: newbe46
You mention depressing the gas pedal fully when turning the ignition and the engine won't fire. Do you mean depressing the clutch?

No, the engine won't crank unless the clutch is fully depressed.

I'll have to try the accelerator pedal thing on my ECHO and see if it prevents it from igniting.
_________________________
1994 BMW 530i, 225K
1996 Honda Accord, 268K
1999 Toyota Sienna, 389K
2000 Toyota ECHO, 265K

Top
#4491169 - 08/17/17 03:05 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
FordCapriDriver Offline


Registered: 10/22/15
Posts: 2328
Loc: Balearic Islands , Spain
If you won't be starting it in sub freezing temperatures really even a 15W-40 will flow fine, i've started my 1975 Capri with 20W-50 in the sump at slightly below freezing with zero issues.
_________________________
1975 Ford Capri II Ghia 3000 V6
1988 Ford Escort 1.6 Xr3i Convertible
Finnish expat living in Spain
My clothes smell like 15W-40 HDEO and 20W-50.

Top
#4491180 - 08/17/17 03:22 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
Linctex Offline


Registered: 12/31/16
Posts: 5731
Loc: Waco, TX
You could prime the oil pump with a drill in the spring.

Or add an oil accumulator... close the valve when you are putting it away, it'll hold pressure all winter. Open it so it pre-lubes the system before you start it.
_________________________
"The evidence demands a verdict".
(Re:VOA)"it's nearly impossible to actually know the particular additives that are in there at what concentrations."

Top
#4491211 - 08/17/17 03:58 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
dlundblad Offline


Registered: 09/30/13
Posts: 9683
Loc: Indiana
Are you planning on changing the oil after storage? Supertech 20w50 will work if so.. (Somewhat wasteful IMO, but to each their own. ~$15-20 to sleep well at night is worth it. Don't let store brand conventional scare you. It'll hold up well with 1 hr and a few miles of use. smile )

If not, do yearly changes of Valvoline VR1. Run the car on the road until hot, change the oil when the filter is scorching your hands, get her hot one last time then park until Spring. Do not start it up during storage.

I bought a whole bunch of VR1 for $2 a quart for dad's 240z's for Christmas. I want to say Oreilly has it for $25 a jug, which I feel is a decent price for a yearly oil change on a toy.





Edited by dlundblad (08/17/17 04:00 PM)
_________________________
03 Jeep WJ 4.0 197k Castrol Edge 10w40 HM Fram XG16
02 Volvo S60 2.4T 170k M1 0w40 Mann HU819X
97 Chevy Blazer 4.3 142k Rotella T5 10w30 Fram TG3980


Top
#4491269 - 08/17/17 05:16 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
Audios Offline


Registered: 11/19/11
Posts: 807
Loc: Lyndhurst NJ
What about a cheapie magnetic stick on block heater that you can use for a few hours before startup, and keep the oil warm. You can also pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and crank the engine a decent amount to get the oil up.
_________________________
2002 VW Golf TDI-Mobil 1 5/40 TDT
2005 BMW M3 BMW Twin Power 10/60
1997 John Deere Gator 4x2
2007 Mercedes GL320 CDI Fuchs 5/40 GT Pro XTL

Top
#4491320 - 08/17/17 06:16 PM Re: Oil for Winter Storage [Re: Building3]
SilverFusion2010 Offline


Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 1545
Loc: Crawfordville FL
I would go with a 10w30, but I don't think the viscosity matters.

To accomplish what I think you are going for... Fill the crankcase with oil on storage, and drain to correct level before starting. If you were careful, you could keep a container of clean, "storage" oil and reuse it every year. If you do this I would pick whatever you can get cheapest.

Please note that this would be ridiculous overkill and probably doesn't matter. There is residual oil on the parts. It doesn't evaporate or magically disappear in a closed crankcase.
_________________________
2010 Ford Fusion SE 3.0L V6, 178k miles M1 AFE 0w-20

Top
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >