...as effective as it is in a transmission? I am leary on flushing a 13 year old truck (145k miles). I has had two prior flushes, and two drain and fills over the years, all conventiona green. I have 3 years and 40 k on the last flush and there is some gunk in the degas bottle.
Progressive dilution work for cooling system?
- Thread starter Cmarti
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Is this the F-150? I have one of the same vintage.
Instead of doing a quick flush, think about an actual cleaning. Two bottles of Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner & gallons of distilled water -- drive for six hours. Then, drain that nastiness out.
Refill 50/50 with distilled water (used Prestone Extended Life myself).
Everything is spotless and doing great.
Instead of doing a quick flush, think about an actual cleaning. Two bottles of Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner & gallons of distilled water -- drive for six hours. Then, drain that nastiness out.
Refill 50/50 with distilled water (used Prestone Extended Life myself).
Everything is spotless and doing great.
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Is this the F-150? I have one of the same vintage.
Instead of doing a quick flush, think about an actual cleaning.Two bottles of Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner & gallons of distilled water -- drive for six hours. Then, drain that nastiness out.
Refill with a 50/50 mix (used Prestone Extended Life myself).
Everything is now spotless and doing great.
Yep 2001 f150. It hauls goose decoys and my daughters hay burner. I cant get over the sticker shock on the new ones for that type of dirty work!
So you did not blow up the water pump or plug the core without coolant? All sorts of catastrphic tales on the web.
Is this the F-150? I have one of the same vintage.
Instead of doing a quick flush, think about an actual cleaning.Two bottles of Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner & gallons of distilled water -- drive for six hours. Then, drain that nastiness out.
Refill with a 50/50 mix (used Prestone Extended Life myself).
Everything is now spotless and doing great.
Yep 2001 f150. It hauls goose decoys and my daughters hay burner. I cant get over the sticker shock on the new ones for that type of dirty work!
So you did not blow up the water pump or plug the core without coolant? All sorts of catastrphic tales on the web.
Hello, I was going to say the same thing. I dilute a lot first then get my money's worth from a cleaner.
My friend's F-150 was so foul we used household dishwasher detergent THEN a quick flush product THEN a killer caustic with skulls and crossbones on the label.
Each time we got dark, dirty rinse water to exit the cooling system. Felt good to do. Kira
My friend's F-150 was so foul we used household dishwasher detergent THEN a quick flush product THEN a killer caustic with skulls and crossbones on the label.
Each time we got dark, dirty rinse water to exit the cooling system. Felt good to do. Kira
Another thought considering that with "progressive dilution" you're looking to replace less than 100% of the fluid:
When you're replacing the ATF you're trying to:
1-remove contaminants
2-restore frictional characteristics
But when you're replacing the anti-freeze you're trying to:
1-replenish anti-corrosion additives
2-replenish other additives
3-remove contaminants
Word on the street is you can mix-and-match ATF so long as you're mixing suitable ATF with suitable ATF. With coolant you only count on as much corrosion protection as provided by the additive in the coolant type that you're using most of. This means that if you're replacing 80% of your coolant and the other 20% is of unknown or incompatible type you should consider the corrosion inhibitors in that 20% to be fully depleted regardless of age.
When you're replacing the ATF you're trying to:
1-remove contaminants
2-restore frictional characteristics
But when you're replacing the anti-freeze you're trying to:
1-replenish anti-corrosion additives
2-replenish other additives
3-remove contaminants
Word on the street is you can mix-and-match ATF so long as you're mixing suitable ATF with suitable ATF. With coolant you only count on as much corrosion protection as provided by the additive in the coolant type that you're using most of. This means that if you're replacing 80% of your coolant and the other 20% is of unknown or incompatible type you should consider the corrosion inhibitors in that 20% to be fully depleted regardless of age.
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Yep 2001 f150. It hauls goose decoys and my daughters hay burner. I cant get over the sticker shock on the new ones for that type of dirty work!
So you did not blow up the water pump or plug the core without coolant? All sorts of catastrphic tales on the web.
The only caveat that comes to mind is that with solely distilled water & cleaner in the system, this obviously isn't something you want to be doing when the temps are literally freezing cold.
Other than that, no doom & gloom -- actually, quite the opposite experience here. My F-150 wasn't exactly meticulously maintained prior to my ownership, and among the issues...zero heat. With distilled/cleaner in the system, whatever blockage was there dislodged, and excellent heating was restored!
Yep 2001 f150. It hauls goose decoys and my daughters hay burner. I cant get over the sticker shock on the new ones for that type of dirty work!
So you did not blow up the water pump or plug the core without coolant? All sorts of catastrphic tales on the web.
The only caveat that comes to mind is that with solely distilled water & cleaner in the system, this obviously isn't something you want to be doing when the temps are literally freezing cold.
Other than that, no doom & gloom -- actually, quite the opposite experience here. My F-150 wasn't exactly meticulously maintained prior to my ownership, and among the issues...zero heat. With distilled/cleaner in the system, whatever blockage was there dislodged, and excellent heating was restored!
JHZR2
Staff member
Id do a citric acid flush if it really is dirty. Id imagine it isnt, rather just a bit neglected. Id probably drain the radiator and flush it with some water without touching the rest of the system. Refill the radiator with new coolant and some Schaeffer's clean and cool or RMI-25 or equivalent and drive for a while. Then do another drian and refill, or if it is time, pull the thermostat/water pump and do the real job.
How about a coolant filter?
I would go with G-05 after the system is clean. No need to use "ole green". I went to G-05 in a 93 Suburban and 94 Camry and a 199x Bobcat with no problems. As long as the engine can take silicates (which any engine that can take "ole green" can) you are fine with G-05.
I would go with G-05 after the system is clean. No need to use "ole green". I went to G-05 in a 93 Suburban and 94 Camry and a 199x Bobcat with no problems. As long as the engine can take silicates (which any engine that can take "ole green" can) you are fine with G-05.
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