I notice the pad are not sliding on the caliper retaining clip while i am installing a set a new pad. then i read some post on the internet and my freidns also told me, just file or grind some materials on the ear to get more space between pad and caliper support bracket. however i am wondering if this is the right way to do, as i imaging grinding also remove paint and may result in more rusting from the ear area of pad, causing pad to stuck even more in future.... but then what do i do when the ear is just a little too big to slide easily? thanks.
grinding away some"ear" of the brake pad?
- Thread starter gogozy
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Are the slides in the caliper perfectly clean? I would think that it could get pretty dirty in there are hang up the pad a bit. If it is clean I cant see how filing off a little to make it fit would hurt anything.
yes, I remove dirt, black and some rust from caliper and bracket, and pad clip (is that what it's called?) the new pad had a maybe 1 or 2mm of nudge on the top of the ear i like to grind if off, but i wonder if removing painting from the pad will cause rust (and cause stuck pad) in future?
thanks
thanks
Are they brand name or OEM pads? Maybe compare to a different brand at an auto parts store near you? If they are a match and still rub, I don't see why you could not just put a little paint back on where you grind if you are worried about rust.
I've had to do it.
Some rust had built up on the rear brakes of my Sonata over the last couple years. I had to do some filing on the pads as well as cleaning up the bracket and re-lubing everything.
Some rust had built up on the rear brakes of my Sonata over the last couple years. I had to do some filing on the pads as well as cleaning up the bracket and re-lubing everything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDbHCpLxNF8 The first couple of minutes explains a lot.
I don't know how to embed the video .. perhaps a mod would help.
TIA Bob
I don't know how to embed the video .. perhaps a mod would help.
TIA Bob
Originally Posted By: gogozy
I notice the pad are not sliding on the caliper retaining clip while i am installing a set a new pad.
Firstly: WHAT KIND OF CAR? You may not think so, but it IS important to know that.
Secondly: Have you looked under the "retaining clip" to see if there is rust there already? On certain brake designs, rust under the pad shims can clamp the pads to the mount bracket, resulting in binding and seizure of the pads. Hondas are infamous for this.
As for Papa Bear and embedding a video, just select the "Enter a media tag" button, which is the 5th one from left in the Reply window (looks like a blue rectangle), and paste your previously-copied URL.
Like so:
I notice the pad are not sliding on the caliper retaining clip while i am installing a set a new pad.
Firstly: WHAT KIND OF CAR? You may not think so, but it IS important to know that.
Secondly: Have you looked under the "retaining clip" to see if there is rust there already? On certain brake designs, rust under the pad shims can clamp the pads to the mount bracket, resulting in binding and seizure of the pads. Hondas are infamous for this.
As for Papa Bear and embedding a video, just select the "Enter a media tag" button, which is the 5th one from left in the Reply window (looks like a blue rectangle), and paste your previously-copied URL.
Like so:
If you grind too much they can be noisy.
But yeah the rattle clips have to come off and scrape the rust down.
Isn't syl-glide for the pins and not the ears? If I do anything to the ears it's a teeny dab of anti seize, don't want it getting on the friction part.
But yeah the rattle clips have to come off and scrape the rust down.
Isn't syl-glide for the pins and not the ears? If I do anything to the ears it's a teeny dab of anti seize, don't want it getting on the friction part.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Firstly: WHAT KIND OF CAR? You may not think so, but it IS important to know that.
Secondly: Have you looked under the "retaining clip" to see if there is rust there already? On certain brake designs, rust under the pad shims can clamp the pads to the mount bracket, resulting in binding and seizure of the pads. Hondas are infamous for this.
sorry, i forgot brake system are the same!! it's a 2004 Acura TSX, i have to agree the infamous part, that I felt TSX require services each year. there were some rust under the clip, and I had remove as much as I can. btw, any better way to remove rust then brushing it with wire brush?
Firstly: WHAT KIND OF CAR? You may not think so, but it IS important to know that.
Secondly: Have you looked under the "retaining clip" to see if there is rust there already? On certain brake designs, rust under the pad shims can clamp the pads to the mount bracket, resulting in binding and seizure of the pads. Hondas are infamous for this.
sorry, i forgot brake system are the same!! it's a 2004 Acura TSX, i have to agree the infamous part, that I felt TSX require services each year. there were some rust under the clip, and I had remove as much as I can. btw, any better way to remove rust then brushing it with wire brush?
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you grind too much they can be noisy.
But yeah the rattle clips have to come off and scrape the rust down.
Isn't syl-glide for the pins and not the ears? If I do anything to the ears it's a teeny dab of anti seize, don't want it getting on the friction part.
thx for this forum, I use Syl-glide to lube the pin, and use the permatex Ceramic Brake lube at the ear... or shall i use anti-seize?
If you grind too much they can be noisy.
But yeah the rattle clips have to come off and scrape the rust down.
Isn't syl-glide for the pins and not the ears? If I do anything to the ears it's a teeny dab of anti seize, don't want it getting on the friction part.
thx for this forum, I use Syl-glide to lube the pin, and use the permatex Ceramic Brake lube at the ear... or shall i use anti-seize?
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Isn't syl-glide for the pins and not the ears? If I do anything to the ears it's a teeny dab of anti seize, don't want it getting on the friction part.
The Sil-glide website says it's "recommended for the entire brake assembly."
http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/automotive/154
Quote:
The material is formulated for optimal performance for all braking systems. Protects and
seals out moisture, where other types of lubricants may deteriorate the rubber parts
causing failure. SIL-GLYDE Brake Lubricant is recommended for stopping pad squeal,
caliper slides, back-side of disc pads, for ease of rebuilding & assembly, backing plate
contacts, for lubricating caliper piston bores, anchor & slider bolts, adjusters, and parking brakes.
Obviously, you don't want to get it on the friction material, but it appears they recommend it for many parts of the brake system. My understanding is that "backing plate contacts" would include the part of the caliper bracket where the pad slides.
Isn't syl-glide for the pins and not the ears? If I do anything to the ears it's a teeny dab of anti seize, don't want it getting on the friction part.
The Sil-glide website says it's "recommended for the entire brake assembly."
http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/automotive/154
Quote:
The material is formulated for optimal performance for all braking systems. Protects and
seals out moisture, where other types of lubricants may deteriorate the rubber parts
causing failure. SIL-GLYDE Brake Lubricant is recommended for stopping pad squeal,
caliper slides, back-side of disc pads, for ease of rebuilding & assembly, backing plate
contacts, for lubricating caliper piston bores, anchor & slider bolts, adjusters, and parking brakes.
Obviously, you don't want to get it on the friction material, but it appears they recommend it for many parts of the brake system. My understanding is that "backing plate contacts" would include the part of the caliper bracket where the pad slides.
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