Need some new tools for removing hard to reach plugs...suggestions. thanks!
I need some new "hard to reach" spark plug tools
- Thread starter Blaze
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U joint extensions for a socket set will help.
Any of those bendy snake tools with a magnet and LED on the end is really useful once plug is threaded out completely. Sometimes the rubber grip inside the spark plug socket is TOO GOOD and the socket gets trapped. UGH. Bad enough on 4 cylinder dohc where they are on top and all plugs shoulda been a 5 minute job.
I like the stanley twist rachet, its action continues to turn in the same direction: 89-962. Awesome for all kinds of limited range of motion jobs, like oil servicing, bell housings etc. It's on sale on sears right now, since you are on the computer already try to hunt down and stack coupon codes while you are at it for more savings.
http://www.sears.com/stanley-hand-tools-38in-drive-rotator-ratchet/p-00973636000P
I like the stanley twist rachet, its action continues to turn in the same direction: 89-962. Awesome for all kinds of limited range of motion jobs, like oil servicing, bell housings etc. It's on sale on sears right now, since you are on the computer already try to hunt down and stack coupon codes while you are at it for more savings.
http://www.sears.com/stanley-hand-tools-38in-drive-rotator-ratchet/p-00973636000P
Is there a specific vehicle/engine that you're having trouble with ? Without that info it is hard to offer useful tips.
I like to use a length of fuel hose to pull plugs out of deep wells and initially thread them back in. Flexible, but a tight enough grip to start the plugs without risk of cross-threading.
Last time I was in the great state of Washington I bought a 3 piece set made by OTC that has a knurled extension built in to each socket. It came with the two standard automotive sizes (5/8" & 13/16") along with a special 9/16" socket for Ford's 5.4L 3V engine. I payed about $30 over the counter at an industrial supply store, probably much cheaper online. They are great, since then I have hardly used any of my other plug sockets. Very well made, exact fit, tight fitting boots, nice finish, the built in extension is very, very helpful. No country-of-origen though, so I assume they are Taiwanese.
Plug sockets can be purchased with a u-joint built in to the socket. Craftsman sells these.
For the ever present problem of the socket sticking to the plug after installation a 3/8" extension with a locking tip works great, much better than trying to fish the socket out with needle nose pliers.
Plug sockets can be purchased with a u-joint built in to the socket. Craftsman sells these.
For the ever present problem of the socket sticking to the plug after installation a 3/8" extension with a locking tip works great, much better than trying to fish the socket out with needle nose pliers.
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I have a Snap-On flex head ratchet. Works wonders in tight spots.
Originally Posted By: getnpsi
Any of those bendy snake tools with a magnet and LED on the end is really useful once plug is threaded out completely. Sometimes the rubber grip inside the spark plug socket is TOO GOOD and the socket gets trapped. UGH. Bad enough on 4 cylinder dohc where they are on top and all plugs shoulda been a 5 minute job.
I like the stanley twist rachet, its action continues to turn in the same direction: 89-962. Awesome for all kinds of limited range of motion jobs, like oil servicing, bell housings etc. It's on sale on sears right now, since you are on the computer already try to hunt down and stack coupon codes while you are at it for more savings.
http://www.sears.com/stanley-hand-tools-38in-drive-rotator-ratchet/p-00973636000P
i usually tape the socket and various pieces together loosely so it can flex but it wont fall apart.
a few short extensions and u-joints usually works
Any of those bendy snake tools with a magnet and LED on the end is really useful once plug is threaded out completely. Sometimes the rubber grip inside the spark plug socket is TOO GOOD and the socket gets trapped. UGH. Bad enough on 4 cylinder dohc where they are on top and all plugs shoulda been a 5 minute job.
I like the stanley twist rachet, its action continues to turn in the same direction: 89-962. Awesome for all kinds of limited range of motion jobs, like oil servicing, bell housings etc. It's on sale on sears right now, since you are on the computer already try to hunt down and stack coupon codes while you are at it for more savings.
http://www.sears.com/stanley-hand-tools-38in-drive-rotator-ratchet/p-00973636000P
i usually tape the socket and various pieces together loosely so it can flex but it wont fall apart.
a few short extensions and u-joints usually works
Great help!...thanks. Its a 2003 Ford Ranger V-6. Also have a couple Ford 460's.
Originally Posted By: Blaze
Great help!...thanks. Its a 2003 Ford Ranger V-6. Also have a couple Ford 460's.
For those applications there isn't a whole lot needed beyond a long handled ratchet, flex head ratchet, swivel joint and different lengths of extensions. All of which you should have anyhow to get anything done on your cars. PB Blaster, elbow grease and patience are always helpful and inexpensive.
For the 03 Ranger 4.0 V6 passenger side spark plugs you'll find going through the wheelwell is much easier than going down through the engine bay. Just pull the front wheel and they're right there - very easy to change. The drivers side should be accessible from the top, but through wheelwell may help with the back one.
What vehicle are the 460s in ?
Keith
Great help!...thanks. Its a 2003 Ford Ranger V-6. Also have a couple Ford 460's.
For those applications there isn't a whole lot needed beyond a long handled ratchet, flex head ratchet, swivel joint and different lengths of extensions. All of which you should have anyhow to get anything done on your cars. PB Blaster, elbow grease and patience are always helpful and inexpensive.
For the 03 Ranger 4.0 V6 passenger side spark plugs you'll find going through the wheelwell is much easier than going down through the engine bay. Just pull the front wheel and they're right there - very easy to change. The drivers side should be accessible from the top, but through wheelwell may help with the back one.
What vehicle are the 460s in ?
Keith
there should be a gameshow where you get to kick an engineer in the nuts for making maintenance items like spark plugs, fuel filters, pcv valves, etc. inaccessible without moving or removing a bunch of stuff...seriously, having to remove an intake manifold to access the rear bank of plugs is insanely idiotic.
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