The diff between a 24F, 27f, and a 35, group bat?

Joined
Dec 19, 2004
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354
Location
New Orleans La
Online at advanced they list those three batteries as an exact fit for a 2006 V6 Tacoma prerunner.
 
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In a southern state like New Orleans La, I can understand going for the extra reserve capacity, because you will NEVER be trying to start it at temperatures below Zero Fahrenheit.

For northern states CCA would be the first concern, and one would want to get a battery with the most CCA.
 
24F: 10 3/4(L) x 6 13/16(W) x 9(H)
27F: 12 1/2(L) x 6 13/16(W) x 8 15/16(H)
35 : 9 1/16(L) x 6 7/8(W) x 8 7/8(H)

With and height are similar for all three sizes, but 27F is more than 3" longer than 35 and 1 3/4" longer than 24F.

I would buy 27F if it fits.
 
Your truck most likely came with a 27F group size battery.

The 35 and the 24F are listed because they will also fit.

The 27F is the largest, followed by the 24F, which is the same width but a little shorter and not quite as long, and then the 35, which is smaller in every dimension.

Here's a little breakdown on the Duralast batteries that are sold at Auto Zone:

27F-DLG Duralast Gold: 710 CCA, 165 reserve min., 50 lbs., $109

24F-DLG Duralast Gold: 750 CCA, 135 reserve min., 44 lbs., $109

35-DLG Duralast Gold: 640 CCA, 100 reserve min., 38 lbs., $116

All Duralast Gold have a 36/96 warranty (36 mos. free replacement, 96 mos. prorated).

All these have plenty of CCA to start your truck. If you have towing pkg, inverter, or aftermarket electronics, you may want to go with the 27F, since it's physically larger and will potentially last longer for that reason.

Personally I have an Ever Start Maxx 24F from Wal-Mart, @ 700 CCA, with 3-year free replacement. That's just what they had in stock at Wal-Mart when I went. Not sure if it has a prorated warranty. It cost me about $80 plus tax in April 2011. I can't remember if my truck had a 24F or a 27F in it as original equipment. Bought my truck new in June 2007, so the OE battery lasted almost 4 years. Pretty typical for OE batteries in my area.

I work at Auto Zone, and I can tell you, any of those three will fit.

They also offer the Duralast Platinum, which is a sealed, spillproof, maintenance-free AGM battery (absorbed glass mat). The main advantage is that it's leakproof under normal circumstances, so you don't have to worry about corrosion. This type of battery is also more resistant to vibration, deep-cycling (although it's not a deep-cycle battery), and periods of unuse than a flooded lead-acid battery, and can deliver more current under certain circumstances.

However, the Platinum doesn't have the pro-rated warranty - just a 36 mo. free replacement and that's it. Consequentially, most folks go with the Gold instead.

The Platinum for your truck would be the Duralast Platinum 34R-AGM: 750 CCA, 120 reserve min, 43 lbs., $146
 
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It's also plausible they put the smaller battery in at least some of the new trucks to get them in a lighter EPA/CAFE weight class. I had a hyundai accent that came with a skinny little thing but its battery tray was also drilled and tapped to move the hold down for a "real" battery.
smile.gif


In the deep south you want fewer CCA as it means thicker plates.
 
Cost cutting would be my guess.
Factory issued battery would be the smallest/cheapest possible, and the suggested replacements are the largest/ most powerful that will fit.
 
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Bullet - point of reference.
Rav4world forum has a thread on the duration of life for new batteries in their vehicles. The average is less than three years. Kind of tells you.
Same way with tires.
 
The Kirkland (BCI Group 35) Costco's fitment code 3 Battery has 800cca and used to be in the $60-70 range.

If those previously mentioned dimentions are correct I'd just look for the biggest (in cca) battery that would fit (with the terminals on the correct side, BTW).

There would seem to be a lot of wiggle room both from a co$t and size standpoint...

Cheers!
 
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
Your truck most likely came with a 27F group size battery.

The 35 and the 24F are listed because they will also fit.

The 27F is the largest, followed by the 24F, which is the same width but a little shorter and not quite as long, and then the 35, which is smaller in every dimension.

Here's a little breakdown on the Duralast batteries that are sold at Auto Zone:

27F-DLG Duralast Gold: 710 CCA, 165 reserve min., 50 lbs., $109

24F-DLG Duralast Gold: 750 CCA, 135 reserve min., 44 lbs., $109

35-DLG Duralast Gold: 640 CCA, 100 reserve min., 38 lbs., $116

All Duralast Gold have a 36/96 warranty (36 mos. free replacement, 96 mos. prorated).

All these have plenty of CCA to start your truck. If you have towing pkg, inverter, or aftermarket electronics, you may want to go with the 27F, since it's physically larger and will potentially last longer for that reason.

Personally I have an Ever Start Maxx 24F from Wal-Mart, @ 700 CCA, with 3-year free replacement. That's just what they had in stock at Wal-Mart when I went. Not sure if it has a prorated warranty. It cost me about $80 plus tax in April 2011. I can't remember if my truck had a 24F or a 27F in it as original equipment. Bought my truck new in June 2007, so the OE battery lasted almost 4 years. Pretty typical for OE batteries in my area.

I work at Auto Zone, and I can tell you, any of those three will fit.

They also offer the Duralast Platinum, which is a sealed, spillproof, maintenance-free AGM battery (absorbed glass mat). The main advantage is that it's leakproof under normal circumstances, so you don't have to worry about corrosion. This type of battery is also more resistant to vibration, deep-cycling (although it's not a deep-cycle battery), and periods of unuse than a flooded lead-acid battery, and can deliver more current under certain circumstances.

However, the Platinum doesn't have the pro-rated warranty - just a 36 mo. free replacement and that's it. Consequentially, most folks go with the Gold instead.

The Platinum for your truck would be the Duralast Platinum 34R-AGM: 750 CCA, 120 reserve min, 43 lbs., $146


Every battery I’ve bought in the last twenty years has been from Autozone, except the one in now. I bought that from Orliey’s because it was an emergency. The battery still works, but last week when I opened the hood the terminals and hold down were corroded bad. This weekend I’m heading back to AZ.
 
Unless you are in cold environments , i would pick the battery with just enough cranking amps to do the job. My feeling is with higher cca batteries, you have more yet thinner plates. I like thicker plates for longer life. Thats why i would get the biggest size battery, but the lower cca's that would do the job.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bullet
Every battery I’ve bought in the last twenty years has been from Autozone, except the one in now. I bought that from Orliey’s because it was an emergency. The battery still works, but last week when I opened the hood the terminals and hold down were corroded bad. This weekend I’m heading back to AZ.


Sounds like you have a conventional flooded lead-acid battery, and it leaked liquid electrolyte out from under the vents. That's a common occurrence with this type of battery, and can be minimized, if not prevented altogether, by doing 3 things:

1. Use the felt rings that go on the posts under the cable clamps (factory-treated to neutralize spilled electrolyte).

2. Cover the clamps and hold-down bracket with grease to protect them from spilled electrolyte and sulfuric acid fumes that vent from the battery as a part of normal operation.

3. Check under the hood every 3 or 4 fill-ups for leaked electrolyte. If any has spilled, clean with a solution of warm water and baking soda (approximately 2 tablespoons of soda to a half-pint of water). This will neutralize the acid in the electrolyte. Obviously, don't get any down into the battery vents, as it can inactivate the battery.

- If corrosion already exists, the above solution may be used with a wire brush to clean the cable end clamps. Auto parts stores and Wal-Mart, etc. carry a handy battery cleaning brush that is perfect for cleaning the inside, conducting surface of the cable end clamps. It also includes a brush for cleaning the battery posts.

Remember, corrosion on the cable end clamps inhibits electrical conduction. If there is not a good connection, it will kill a new battery prematurely due to the alternator not being able to properly charge it.

Do you have a Nissan, by chance? For some reason, Nissans are bad about getting severe corrosion on the terminals and hold-down bracket, as you've described.
 
I found the information that the 24F comes with a higher RC and CCA ratings, with a bit higher price. So it would be advisable to invest a Group 24F battery to ensure that the battery has enough power to help get your car’s engine started easily.

Regarding the dimensions, Group 24F batteries measure 10.3 x 6.8 x 8.9, whereas the Group 35 batteries measure 9.1 x 6.9 x 8.9 (~1 inch in length), so ensure that the 24F you intend to buy can get in your battery box.
Source
 
I found the information that the 24F comes with a higher RC and CCA ratings, with a bit higher price. So it would be advisable to invest a Group 24F battery to ensure that the battery has enough power to help get your car’s engine started easily.

Regarding the dimensions, Group 24F batteries measure 10.3 x 6.8 x 8.9, whereas the Group 35 batteries measure 9.1 x 6.9 x 8.9 (~1 inch in length), so ensure that the 24F you intend to buy can get in your battery box.
Source

I sure hope the OP decided on a battery by now.
 
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