Chain lube (Yes, another)

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Used many types over the years and have never found one I really like. Saw on ADVRider where some (quite a few) use ATF and state it works very well.

According to the the chain manufacturers, gear oil is preferred, an 80-90w. I would assume this is for the 'pressure' handling equation vs heat.

My question is, out of motor oil, gear oil and atf, which handles the punishment a drive chain encounters best, all the while keeping the chain clean and lubed at the same time?
 
This is a good question. My best guess is that you wouldn't notice a difference between any of those three as far as chain life. Sounds messy, though, compared to other chain lubes/waxes, especially ATF.

If you are a dirt rider, keep in mind the wet lubes (the oils you listed and some spray-on lubes) can attract dirt to the chain, becoming a nice lapping compound to grind down important parts.
 
With a standard chain(all we had in the 70's) we use to heat paraffin wax, ball joint grease and lots powdered graphite. Put the chain in it and move it around to get into the links then take it off the heat to let it set up a little, then take the chain out and hang it up to let any lube that has not set up drain off back into the lube pan.

We desert raced back in the early 70's and this made our chains last a long time. Kept the dirt and sand out of the links so the chain would not wear out as fast.
I would not do this with a o-ringed chain.

ROD
 
I've been using WD40 on my road bike chains for about 10 years. I've used it on a ZZR600, SV650, TL1000S, CBR1000RR and a VTR1000F.

I got sick of chain lube because it always attracted too much dirt. The best thing about WD40 is, it doesn't harm o-rings and it cleans and lubricates at the same time and doesn't attract dirt or spray dirty gritty [censored] all over your back wheel.

I have had no excessive wear of my chain or sprockets and I've done a lot of track days too with no problems. Even on my 2007 Fireblade.
 
I use Schaeffer #277
http://www.schaefferoil.com/roller-chain-lube.html

Tri-Flow is also excellent. PG1 Blue is excellent, as is the DuPont yellow label Teflon Chain Saver aerosol.

Chain saw bar oil is good due to the tackiness additive. ATF is gear lube--consider the gears inside your automatic transmission. Heavy gear oil has extreme pressure additives--always good.
 
I usually use the bottle of bar oil (red bottle), but when I was doing some cutting at a friends place I ran out. He had some of that Lucas thick & sticky oil stuff. I poured it on a few times and was able to get the job done. I wouldn't use it in a engine, but for the chainsaw chain/bar it got me through the cutting job near the end.
 
Originally Posted By: suzukiguy1978
I've been using WD40 on my road bike chains for about 10 years. I've used it on a ZZR600, SV650, TL1000S, CBR1000RR and a VTR1000F.

I got sick of chain lube because it always attracted too much dirt. The best thing about WD40 is, it doesn't harm o-rings and it cleans and lubricates at the same time and doesn't attract dirt or spray dirty gritty [censored] all over your back wheel.

I have had no excessive wear of my chain or sprockets and I've done a lot of track days too with no problems. Even on my 2007 Fireblade.


AGREED: but i also like Tri-Flow lubricant, ive tried a zillion lubes and as long as WD is applied every few hundred miles its a great way to go.. I tend to get Lazy at times and i think tri-flow seems to last a little longer than WD there both on my shelf
 
I tried many different kinds of chain lubes. For the amount of riding that I did, I bought a Scott Oiler and just used 5w-30 or 5w-20 engine oil. Engine oil does get a little messy if you drive long miles non-stop. I had two choices to make: 1) use a tacky lube that wouldn't last on long trips, but was clean; or 2) use engine oil and get long chain life, but a dirty bike around the sprockets. I would get between 8-12k miles with a tacky spray (PJ-1), or 22-30k miles with engine oil in the scott oiler.

several things I tried:

Wheel bearing grease
PJ-1
Dupont Chain lube
STP oil treatment
WD-40
Tri-Flow
Boeshield
Gear oil 80w-90
LubroMoly HiTack (not available anymore)
 
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Only negative thing about wd40 only, is it doesnt do anything for sprocket life(film strength wise. Now if your easy on chains and sprockets and get 30,000 miles or more on a chain set, maybe it doesnt matter.

But If your really hard on chains sets, cutting that metal to metal contact in a Street use bike, makes a HUGE difference in sprocket life. I actaully have 100,000 miles on my vfr rear sprocket, I did change the front around 53,000 miles , but It was in far better shape than I expected, could easily have ran it another 10,000 miles.

The whole point, its that film strength that cuts that Metal to metal thats allowing me to do that. Sevarl years ago I was haveing a tough time destroying front sprockets in less than 10,000 miles, I thought there was no hope, till I discovered the miracle drug of synthetic Lithium.


I use a synthetic Lithium product, its exceeeded all gear oils triflows , waxes, Ive ever tried.
 
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