RP Purple Ice or Amsoil Dominator Coolant...best?
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The coolant tempature is still regulated by the thermostat so the temp is still going to be within an acceptable temp range. I also have used (gunk super coolant optimizer). Similar to ww or purple ice on several vehicles with positive results. Granted it may not be necessary in a street car but doesn't mean it has no effect.
Originally Posted By: robertcope
It seems to me that if your car lost 15F under normal operating conditions that your thermostat must be messed up. I would expect WW to help in situations where there is not enough cooling capacity, for example if you were at the track on a very hot day, not in daily driving situations. Maybe I am wrong.
+1
I'm really surprised by claims of across the board temp drops. Under highway cruising conditions (55+ mph in your highest gear, your car already warmed up), you should see no difference in coolant temperature when using these coolant additives that reduce the surface tension of water if your cooling system is working properly (e.g. thermostat, pump, radiator/pressure cap). In fact unless it's really hot outside (100+F) you should see temps right at or just above the crack or initial opening temp of your thermostat with and without these additives.
BTW, there are senarios where these products help, such as on autox/race-tracks or with cars that see a lot of stop and go traffic (city taxis), but as others have already stated for the vast majority of cars/drivers there is little to no benefit.
It seems to me that if your car lost 15F under normal operating conditions that your thermostat must be messed up. I would expect WW to help in situations where there is not enough cooling capacity, for example if you were at the track on a very hot day, not in daily driving situations. Maybe I am wrong.
+1
I'm really surprised by claims of across the board temp drops. Under highway cruising conditions (55+ mph in your highest gear, your car already warmed up), you should see no difference in coolant temperature when using these coolant additives that reduce the surface tension of water if your cooling system is working properly (e.g. thermostat, pump, radiator/pressure cap). In fact unless it's really hot outside (100+F) you should see temps right at or just above the crack or initial opening temp of your thermostat with and without these additives.
BTW, there are senarios where these products help, such as on autox/race-tracks or with cars that see a lot of stop and go traffic (city taxis), but as others have already stated for the vast majority of cars/drivers there is little to no benefit.
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I put the Gunk Super Coolant in my 96 Escort Lx after I flushed the cooling system as it stated that it helped reduce hotspots.
I have never used a coolant addative in my radiators to cool temps down more. I have never had overheating issues since I stopped driving vehicles from the 60's-70's. And those vehicles were what they were. Today, the engineering is so much better.
What alot of people don't realize is that, "Water Wetter" type products were designed for race track use because alot of/maybe all race tracks rule against using automotive anti-freeze/coolants due to the track will become very slippery should an engine begin to leak. Yeah, I know, oil gets on race tracks too! But, you gotta have oil!
Anyway, the companies are marketing these coolant, cooling products for not only the person that is racing but, the general public too. Some people use these cooling addatives instead of fixing their cooling issues but most daily drivers don't need them.
What alot of people don't realize is that, "Water Wetter" type products were designed for race track use because alot of/maybe all race tracks rule against using automotive anti-freeze/coolants due to the track will become very slippery should an engine begin to leak. Yeah, I know, oil gets on race tracks too! But, you gotta have oil!
Anyway, the companies are marketing these coolant, cooling products for not only the person that is racing but, the general public too. Some people use these cooling addatives instead of fixing their cooling issues but most daily drivers don't need them.
I just want to add that I have driven from NY to FL in July and no cooling issues. Also, I have driven in Phoenix in Aug when it's been 120 deg F in stop-n-go traffic and no issues and driven that same vehicle from Phoenix to LasVagas and no issues. Oh yeah, it was cooler in LasVagas...111 deg F. All cases using only 50/50 coolant.
Antifreezes already have surface-tension reducers in them. Adding more is a waste of money, and based on my (and others') experiences, these products will begin to turn "gummy" and leave deposits on your overflow bottle well before your coolant needs changing.
Waste of money... I have used all of these and never got any improvements in any newer or classic cars it was used in.
Running more water then coolant and your engine will run cooler. Doing this though will screw you in the winter months and also will effect the corrosion resistance of the coolant.
Running more water then coolant and your engine will run cooler. Doing this though will screw you in the winter months and also will effect the corrosion resistance of the coolant.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Street car/van. You don't need the stuff.
Disagree, the amsoil stuff says it will increase the warm up time during cold weather. That's probably the #1 reason for most people to use the stuff.
Secondly the corrosion protection could help down the line as the car gets older.
For the small cost, $10 it will easily pay for itself.
Street car/van. You don't need the stuff.
Disagree, the amsoil stuff says it will increase the warm up time during cold weather. That's probably the #1 reason for most people to use the stuff.
Secondly the corrosion protection could help down the line as the car gets older.
For the small cost, $10 it will easily pay for itself.
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If my ATF is cooled by my the engine coolant radiator - if I lower the temp of the engine coolant it should in theory lower the temp slightly of the ATF fluid is this correct?
These products do not lower the coolant temperature (unless the thermostat is already fully open which is unlikely). They improve the conduction of heat from the metal of the engine into the coolant...and therefore may raise the coolant temperature...and then improve the conduction of heat from the coolant to the metal of the radiator.
Your ATF cooler is likely in the cool tank of the radiator, right? Take a look. The radiator has two tanks, maybe top & bottom, maybe left & right. The hot coolant from the engine enters at the top (and maybe into one side tank) and the cooled coolant returns to the engine on the bottom (and maybe the other side tank). We know what the temperature is of the hot coolant entering the radiator, right close to the set point of the thermostat. We do not know what the temperature is of the coolant exiting the radiator...faster flow and less cooling on hot days, slower flow and more cooling on cold days. The thermostat lets just enough cool coolant from the radiator into the engine to keep the coolant in the head at set point.
So...the coolant additives might improve the transfer of heat to the radiator and result in cooler coolant in the cool tank of the radiator. Might. This might result in slightly cooler ATF. It would be worth a coupl'a bucks to try, but not much more. You'll be better off to use a superior ATF and to have an additional ATF cooler installed.
If my ATF is cooled by my the engine coolant radiator - if I lower the temp of the engine coolant it should in theory lower the temp slightly of the ATF fluid is this correct?
These products do not lower the coolant temperature (unless the thermostat is already fully open which is unlikely). They improve the conduction of heat from the metal of the engine into the coolant...and therefore may raise the coolant temperature...and then improve the conduction of heat from the coolant to the metal of the radiator.
Your ATF cooler is likely in the cool tank of the radiator, right? Take a look. The radiator has two tanks, maybe top & bottom, maybe left & right. The hot coolant from the engine enters at the top (and maybe into one side tank) and the cooled coolant returns to the engine on the bottom (and maybe the other side tank). We know what the temperature is of the hot coolant entering the radiator, right close to the set point of the thermostat. We do not know what the temperature is of the coolant exiting the radiator...faster flow and less cooling on hot days, slower flow and more cooling on cold days. The thermostat lets just enough cool coolant from the radiator into the engine to keep the coolant in the head at set point.
So...the coolant additives might improve the transfer of heat to the radiator and result in cooler coolant in the cool tank of the radiator. Might. This might result in slightly cooler ATF. It would be worth a coupl'a bucks to try, but not much more. You'll be better off to use a superior ATF and to have an additional ATF cooler installed.
I think there is some solid logic behind the tstat operation. I know that my engine seems to run the same temperature regardless of the outside temperature. Unfortunately, that temp range is 194-206F. I would like to get that down but improving cooling will probably just result in the tstat closing more.
I read something tonight on another forum about some magic chemistry when combining AMSOIL Antifreeze with Redline Water Wetter. Anyone else heard of this?
My main concern is head gasket health. I think the high operating temperature of the engine has an impact over a long period of time. Coolant acidity certainly will have an impact as well. Cavitation in the pump probably isn't good either. Seal conditioners are probably a good thing, I would think. And anything that keeps the water pump alive has to be a good ting as well as protectants for the aluminum walls of the cooling system.
I read something tonight on another forum about some magic chemistry when combining AMSOIL Antifreeze with Redline Water Wetter. Anyone else heard of this?
My main concern is head gasket health. I think the high operating temperature of the engine has an impact over a long period of time. Coolant acidity certainly will have an impact as well. Cavitation in the pump probably isn't good either. Seal conditioners are probably a good thing, I would think. And anything that keeps the water pump alive has to be a good ting as well as protectants for the aluminum walls of the cooling system.
Better to just do a radiator drain and fill every year or every other year depending on miles driven. Keep fresh coolant in your car and you should not have any issues.
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Better to just do a radiator drain and fill every year or every other year depending on miles driven. Keep fresh coolant in your car and you should not have any issues.
Agreed, Antifreeze has enough of the good stuff already included. Buy a quality branded coolant and call it a day
Better to just do a radiator drain and fill every year or every other year depending on miles driven. Keep fresh coolant in your car and you should not have any issues.
Agreed, Antifreeze has enough of the good stuff already included. Buy a quality branded coolant and call it a day
Factory coolants is what i use. Nothing else.
I always thought you would see higher, more accurate and consistent temps due to more complete contact of the temp sender.
I've read almost every WW thread out there and they all end up the same. People say its not needed, creates gunk etc. However What about the water pump? I've never had a water pump fail until I've put WW into my 240sx. Maybe some WW seeped past the WP seal and dissolved the grease from the bearing?
Years later I put amsoil coolant boost in my 240sx, and in the winter it took about 25 minutes for the car to reach 180*f. It still takes a while in the summer, and this is with a new OE t-stat. 50/50 ratio. But now on my track car I definitely need some assistance cooling down two turbos. I'm hoping to run 25% coolant and maybe some coolant boost. I'm just concerned for the seals, and any other type of acidic properties these products may have.
I've read almost every WW thread out there and they all end up the same. People say its not needed, creates gunk etc. However What about the water pump? I've never had a water pump fail until I've put WW into my 240sx. Maybe some WW seeped past the WP seal and dissolved the grease from the bearing?
Years later I put amsoil coolant boost in my 240sx, and in the winter it took about 25 minutes for the car to reach 180*f. It still takes a while in the summer, and this is with a new OE t-stat. 50/50 ratio. But now on my track car I definitely need some assistance cooling down two turbos. I'm hoping to run 25% coolant and maybe some coolant boost. I'm just concerned for the seals, and any other type of acidic properties these products may have.
Originally Posted By: Bigsyke
I always thought you would see higher, more accurate and consistent temps due to more complete contact of the temp sender.
I've read almost every WW thread out there and they all end up the same. People say its not needed, creates gunk etc. However What about the water pump? I've never had a water pump fail until I've put WW into my 240sx. Maybe some WW seeped past the WP seal and dissolved the grease from the bearing?
Years later I put amsoil coolant boost in my 240sx, and in the winter it took about 25 minutes for the car to reach 180*f. It still takes a while in the summer, and this is with a new OE t-stat. 50/50 ratio. But now on my track car I definitely need some assistance cooling down two turbos. I'm hoping to run 25% coolant and maybe some coolant boost. I'm just concerned for the seals, and any other type of acidic properties these products may have.
Coolant boost seems better than WW on the corrosion, so I do not think that the things will become worst if you add it.
I used to use WW, it was more oily than Coolant Boost which ha no viscosity, so I do not think that it will lubricate the water pump.
So far the car goes better since I put it, I'm sure because a more uniform temperature of the engine,it has lowered the hot spots that are present in every engine especially on the engines prone to sludge.
I always thought you would see higher, more accurate and consistent temps due to more complete contact of the temp sender.
I've read almost every WW thread out there and they all end up the same. People say its not needed, creates gunk etc. However What about the water pump? I've never had a water pump fail until I've put WW into my 240sx. Maybe some WW seeped past the WP seal and dissolved the grease from the bearing?
Years later I put amsoil coolant boost in my 240sx, and in the winter it took about 25 minutes for the car to reach 180*f. It still takes a while in the summer, and this is with a new OE t-stat. 50/50 ratio. But now on my track car I definitely need some assistance cooling down two turbos. I'm hoping to run 25% coolant and maybe some coolant boost. I'm just concerned for the seals, and any other type of acidic properties these products may have.
Coolant boost seems better than WW on the corrosion, so I do not think that the things will become worst if you add it.
I used to use WW, it was more oily than Coolant Boost which ha no viscosity, so I do not think that it will lubricate the water pump.
So far the car goes better since I put it, I'm sure because a more uniform temperature of the engine,it has lowered the hot spots that are present in every engine especially on the engines prone to sludge.
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