OK -- this is a weird one. My Focus interferes with my garage door opener. My garage door opener is less than 5 years old (Chamberlain screw drive). I have to literally press the remote button 10-20 times before it closes -- ONLY when the Focus is running. At first I thought it was Sync(Bluetooth) or Sat Radio related -- because my previous ride didn't have those features. However, I've turned all that off, and I still can't open/close the door w/o pressing it 10+ times. Turn Focus off, and it works the first time -- every time. It's really annoying! I have no problems using Homelink in my other ride, nor did I have problems with the same remote in my previous Ford (Sport Trac). Garage door openers operate in the 300-400MHz range, so I can't figure out what could be interfering with it. The problem didn't appear immediately after buying the Focus. A bell just went off: I did add an aftermarket amp -- which is always on when the car is on. I could try pulling the fuse in it -- long shot -- but that's the only thing changed.
Car interferes with Garage Door Opener?
- Thread starter kkreit01
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Did this occur before you put in the new amp? Did pulling the amp fuse take care of it?
Other thought: if the batteries are weak in the garage door remote, then it would have trouble sending a reliable signal, especially with interference. I'd try the remote in the Explorer in the Focus to see if it duplicates the situation.
Other thought: if the batteries are weak in the garage door remote, then it would have trouble sending a reliable signal, especially with interference. I'd try the remote in the Explorer in the Focus to see if it duplicates the situation.
I haven't tried disabling the amp yet. I don't recall the problem starting immediately after I bought the Focus. It started later -- around the time the amp was installed. I have checked the batteries, and they are good. I do have another remote, but I can't program it at all (don't know what the deal is there?). My other ride uses Homelink, and it works fine.
Can you hold the door opener out the window and over the roof of the car so the metal of the roof provides some shielding from the cars interior? That would further point to something in the interior of the car.
You could also try exiting the idling car with the opener and see how far away you need to be before the opener begins working correctly.
You could also try exiting the idling car with the opener and see how far away you need to be before the opener begins working correctly.
Thats a weird problem!
Id change the batteries.
Id change the batteries.
Here's another strange one: my mother's alarm remote can open and close her friend's garage door!
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Can you hold the door opener out the window and over the roof of the car so the metal of the roof provides some shielding from the cars interior? That would further point to something in the interior of the car.
You could also try exiting the idling car with the opener and see how far away you need to be before the opener begins working correctly.
I'll try both of these. Once I tried out the window and it worked. Next time it didn't. Everytime I think I have a solution figured out, it fools me. I'll try the "walking away method".
I removed the fuse from the aftermarket amp this weekend, and it's nothing with the amp itself. I have an LOC connected straight to an empty slot in the fusebox. I may try removing it. It's truly a frustrating amd strange problem. It works every time (first try) when the car is turned off all the way -- even when the remote still in the car. It seems to work better if I hit the remote at a great distance from the door (while coming home). I'm not going to turn the car off immediately after backing out of the garage - that's too many cold starts. I'll keep hitting the remote 10-20 times before I do that (or use the keypad -- which I had to once already).
Thanks for all your suggestions. I have not read of anyone else with this issue. I've read of military interferance. I work for for Marines. Maybe my car absorbs the RF as it's sitting in the parking lot 9 hrs/day?
Can you hold the door opener out the window and over the roof of the car so the metal of the roof provides some shielding from the cars interior? That would further point to something in the interior of the car.
You could also try exiting the idling car with the opener and see how far away you need to be before the opener begins working correctly.
I'll try both of these. Once I tried out the window and it worked. Next time it didn't. Everytime I think I have a solution figured out, it fools me. I'll try the "walking away method".
I removed the fuse from the aftermarket amp this weekend, and it's nothing with the amp itself. I have an LOC connected straight to an empty slot in the fusebox. I may try removing it. It's truly a frustrating amd strange problem. It works every time (first try) when the car is turned off all the way -- even when the remote still in the car. It seems to work better if I hit the remote at a great distance from the door (while coming home). I'm not going to turn the car off immediately after backing out of the garage - that's too many cold starts. I'll keep hitting the remote 10-20 times before I do that (or use the keypad -- which I had to once already).
Thanks for all your suggestions. I have not read of anyone else with this issue. I've read of military interferance. I work for for Marines. Maybe my car absorbs the RF as it's sitting in the parking lot 9 hrs/day?
Originally Posted By: kkreit01
It seems to work better if I hit the remote at a great distance from the door (while coming home).
It's interesting you should mention this. I had a remote that did the same thing-it would work fine if I was close to the door or in the garage, or out on the road about 100 yards away from the house, but didn't work in between. If I was at the end of the driveway at the mailbox the remote wouldn't work, even if I held it out the window and pointed it at the garage door (driveway is about 200 feet long). My opener is also a Chamberlain.
The interesting part is if I'm out walking I keep one of the older remotes in my jacket pocket. I notice the same issue-I can't open the door if I'm walking up the driveway, but if I'm out on the road or close to the door it opens correctly.
I purchased a Chamberlain KLIK1U universal remote for my car and haven't had an issue since.
My wife's Subaru with Homelink never had the problem.
It seems to work better if I hit the remote at a great distance from the door (while coming home).
It's interesting you should mention this. I had a remote that did the same thing-it would work fine if I was close to the door or in the garage, or out on the road about 100 yards away from the house, but didn't work in between. If I was at the end of the driveway at the mailbox the remote wouldn't work, even if I held it out the window and pointed it at the garage door (driveway is about 200 feet long). My opener is also a Chamberlain.
The interesting part is if I'm out walking I keep one of the older remotes in my jacket pocket. I notice the same issue-I can't open the door if I'm walking up the driveway, but if I'm out on the road or close to the door it opens correctly.
I purchased a Chamberlain KLIK1U universal remote for my car and haven't had an issue since.
My wife's Subaru with Homelink never had the problem.
I have a 2nd remote, but I can't seem to program it? It's real odd. I don't want to erase all remotes, because it was a pain to program Homelink (and then I'm afraid none will work). My problem seems similar to yours, except it always works anywhere -- as long as the car is OFF. This morning, I tried out the window -- above the car -- no worky. I left the car (closed the door), and walked away 15', and still no worky. I actually had to use the keypad this morning.
300-400mhz. high frequency for vehicle interference.
here's a shot in the dark.... add good ground straps with good solid connections to the hood on both sides, to vehicle body, then add supplemental ground from one of those points to the engine, as well as the battery. If you want to go further, tie in the alternator frame, and add smaller ground to the ECU mount if it's not inconvenient.
tying all these grounds essentially helps the hood shield more RF.
I had ground issues in a 01 minivan, and while trying to solve headlight flickers, the transmission ended up improving its shifting 2-fold....
M
here's a shot in the dark.... add good ground straps with good solid connections to the hood on both sides, to vehicle body, then add supplemental ground from one of those points to the engine, as well as the battery. If you want to go further, tie in the alternator frame, and add smaller ground to the ECU mount if it's not inconvenient.
tying all these grounds essentially helps the hood shield more RF.
I had ground issues in a 01 minivan, and while trying to solve headlight flickers, the transmission ended up improving its shifting 2-fold....
M
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I would start by replacing the remote battery. If that doesn't fix it, I'd remove the alternator belt and see if that makes a difference.
If that has no effect, I'd crawl under the vehicle and start looking for a magnetic tracking device.
If that has no effect, I'd crawl under the vehicle and start looking for a magnetic tracking device.
I'll try the battery again (kiss). I have tested the battery with a battery tester, and it was fine. It could be low now due to the excessive use. The thing the kills me is "it works fine with the car off".
I had a similiar problem + when the furnace would kick on the garage door would open if that car was in the stall.
I bit the bullet and re-programed the system and it has worked good for years.
I bit the bullet and re-programed the system and it has worked good for years.
Update: I was able to get my 2nd garage door remote working last night -- by replacing the battery (even though it tested OK). However, this remote only works outside of the car even if the car is running or not. This AM, I held it out the window, and it worked. SO, I have 1 remote that works outside of the car (running or not), and 1 remote works if the car is OFF (inside or out).
I also had another hunch this AM: I have a set of winter tires on -- w/o TPMS sensors. The OEM set is in the basement, but still talking to the ECU (receiver in the car). I checked frequencies of Ford TMPS sensors, and BOOM -- they operate in the 300-->400MHz range -- same as garage door openers. This has to be causing my interference. The only other RF in my garage is digital cable, and it's always been there. The Focus has the stem sensors, and my previous Ford had the band ones. This has to be the difference. Now why Homelink still works flawlessly (in my other ride) is another question...
I also had another hunch this AM: I have a set of winter tires on -- w/o TPMS sensors. The OEM set is in the basement, but still talking to the ECU (receiver in the car). I checked frequencies of Ford TMPS sensors, and BOOM -- they operate in the 300-->400MHz range -- same as garage door openers. This has to be causing my interference. The only other RF in my garage is digital cable, and it's always been there. The Focus has the stem sensors, and my previous Ford had the band ones. This has to be the difference. Now why Homelink still works flawlessly (in my other ride) is another question...
I have this same problem with my 2014 Subaru Forester and a 1997 Craftsman garage door opener. I will try:
- Turning off the car in order to close the garage door
- Putting the car into park to close the garage door.
Someone in another forum wrote that when the car starts up, the TPMS system spends some time "pinging" the tires to verify their presence and correct operation. If this is what I'm waiting the 1 minute for, merely putting the car into park probably won't help, but turning off the car should.
- Turning off the car in order to close the garage door
- Putting the car into park to close the garage door.
Someone in another forum wrote that when the car starts up, the TPMS system spends some time "pinging" the tires to verify their presence and correct operation. If this is what I'm waiting the 1 minute for, merely putting the car into park probably won't help, but turning off the car should.
You hit the nail on the head, or tire.
Garage remotes are very weak transmitters but a garage receiver has to be stronger. Is the keypad wireless too? They can be.
The homelink mirror has no batteries, wired directly to 12V and again is a strong transmitter because of this. It doesn't rely on a battery exposed to the elements to generate power which even when new I've found barely make the grade.
So if the tires in your basement are always transmitting or just being woken up when he Focus starts then that constant back & forth communication would create a lot of interference.
Edit: Also look at the size difference, a good bet is the Homelink mirror also has a larger antenna to transmit. The other recourse is to try setting a different frequency on the unit and relearn everything again.
Garage remotes are very weak transmitters but a garage receiver has to be stronger. Is the keypad wireless too? They can be.
The homelink mirror has no batteries, wired directly to 12V and again is a strong transmitter because of this. It doesn't rely on a battery exposed to the elements to generate power which even when new I've found barely make the grade.
So if the tires in your basement are always transmitting or just being woken up when he Focus starts then that constant back & forth communication would create a lot of interference.
Edit: Also look at the size difference, a good bet is the Homelink mirror also has a larger antenna to transmit. The other recourse is to try setting a different frequency on the unit and relearn everything again.
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I had a similar issue after Verizon installed the ONT (fiber optic network box) in my garage. They swore that the device was not interfering with my GDO, but the range of my remote - changing nothing else - shrank from about 100 feet to about 20 feet.
I bought one of these on eBay and installed it. It restored the range to normal and gives me a much smaller remote as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skylink-318TR-Un...=item4177f13eed
I bought one of these on eBay and installed it. It restored the range to normal and gives me a much smaller remote as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skylink-318TR-Un...=item4177f13eed
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