Fram PH16 - Cut Open

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Originally Posted By: sayjac
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That's my point... That's what I think happened with this filter. I was trying to prove that by having a Pure One or Wix won't show perfect result.
The P1 results, while less than perfect appearance, is not near the 'fail' of the endcaps/media of the OP's orange can. To say otherwise would be false. It's the difference between some wavy, but functioning media (P1), and a what looks to be close to collapsed filter media and endcaps (functioning?) As said, it's the difference in structural integrity between attached metal endcaps and fiber.

In seemingly less than perfect conditions I know which I want to use, why change for all conditions? Especially true when I can get metal endcap design for less money than the orange can?
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Or more money for a filter you know will hold up better is NOT a bad thing.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

A P1 or Wix in that application would look perfect. Been there, done that.


Perfect? really? maybe you can explain why the media on this P1 I pull off is all beat up after 3,000 miles. Give it more time and miles, I wouldn't be surprise it would look worse. Looks at the Microguard in the other thread. It looks great.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2021384&page=1


A few clarifications here:

1) Fram Microguards are demonstrably/objectively good filters, I'm talking specifically about the low-end Frams.

2) What looks so bad about your P1? A few wavy folds is no big deal, it just means that the filter has been subjected to (and survived without losing integrity) a high flow rate and resulting across-media pressure drop. It does look pretty gloopy like it's been catching some stuff that might concern me, and that probably resulted in the pressure drop. All in all, I'd say its doing its job in a bad circumstance (lots of particulates in the oil). Compared to the Fram in THIS thread, and looking JUST at the surface of the media and not worrying about the fold shape, your P1 looks substantially more clogged with thick stuff, likely from all the short trip use. I note particularly the thick smear on one of the metal end-caps- I know it probably got there during the cutting process, but that stuff was likely in the filter housing somewhere before cutting moved it onto the end-cap (correct me if I'm wrong). But the media itself has a thick sheen as well. The Fram from the Durango looks like a pretty normal accumulation, rather than a heavy accumulation from short tripping. The inside of the Fram can looks very clean.

3) The mutilated Fram in *THIS* thread probably isn't actually "mutilated" by the engine itself. It probably WENT IN looking a lot like that and just got more irregular. Its fairly typical because the low-end Frams have so little media and the folds are very large to start with and therefore don't always keep each other perfectly straight and parallel- the folds have space to deform in. Also, I'll bet a lot of the "waviness" in the end cap was there also- note that the end cap doesn't appear to be round from the factory, it appears to be cut with clearance notches to allow oil to flow past it- not an altogether bad idea.

Re-reading my post, it didn't come off exactly like I intended it to, nor the way it sounded in my head. What I really was trying to express is that, despite the fact that I do consider them measurably inferior to other filters, MOST (probably >90%) of the basic orange-can Frams out there work just fine and never cause a problem. Even if you use them exclusively and get a bad one every 10th filter (again just a SWAG, maybe its every 30th filter) its probably not going to ever show up as shortening the life of your engine. The only time I would ever expect a Fram to cause measurable damage is the case where the fliter folds completely collapse around the center tube and cause a very large pressure drop and/or make the filter bypass all the time. Again I consider this more likely to happen in Frams largely because the folds are so "open" that they have more room to move around and collapse on each other, combined with the paper end-caps being less able to hold them in place than metal. I've had that happen to me, and it immediately shows on an oil pressure gauge (or did on my engine, which has a "last in the oil flow path" port for the oil pressure sensor.)

In short- I don't subscribe to the "Orange Frams are the kiss of death!!!) hysteria. Nor do I believe that "they're just fine" either. They're a low-end filter that *generally* works OK, but don't have any margin for error.

So Frams will *probably* never hurt a thing... BUT, If you're cautious enough to worry about finding the best engine oil vs price point, the best drain interval, etc. etc. why would you ever use a filter that is DEMONSTRABLY more likely to be flawed than others, yet only costs maybe $3 less? Buying a $3 Fram verus a $6 Purolator or Wix just seems like false economy to me.
 
I don't think they start out like that, but I agree there could be tighter pleats on it. Tight even pleats is something I look for in any filter. This looks like a classic moisture/coolant issue. That doesn't excuse the filter design from not taking that into account though. I might just take the advice above and look for syn media with metal screen backing going forward to account for all scenarios.

I've opened a few standard orange cans. Here's the latest (PH7317):

fram1.jpg


fram4.jpg


Looks pretty good next to the Toyota and P1, and the end caps were extremely solid, as was the media. That orange can came off a 2005 Civic after 7.5k miles.

The problem with Frams is consistency... this PH16 would be ugly even if it hadn't warped, simply because of the lack of media.
 
I'm not sure I believe that wavy pleats ALWAYS means a moisture issue. I'm not sure a little waviness actually means anything at all, for that matter, but if it does I'd suspect that its a by-product of higher than average pressure drop across the media. That can be due to moisture-induced sludge... but I don't know that its the moisture itself that causes the waves, or of its just the plugging of the filter media and resulting pressure drop- which could be due to other sources of particulates than moisture.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac

Here's a P1 that definitely saw a coolant leak issue. Looks kinda rough (5k/4mon), but better than the OP's orange can. Apples to apples, Classic results would have been similar to the P1.


you read my mind, i was just about to look through my previous posts to bring that one up.... even has the failing gaskets pictured on page 3

if you wanna search through my post history, you will also find a couple WIXs that got beat up by moisture
 
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Originally Posted By: Jakegday
Originally Posted By: sayjac

Here's a P1 that definitely saw a coolant leak issue. Looks kinda rough (5k/4mon), but better than the OP's orange can. Apples to apples, Classic results would have been similar to the P1.


you read my mind, i was just about to look through my previous posts to bring that one up.... even has the failing gaskets pictured on page 3

if you wanna search through my post history, you will also find a couple WIXs that got beat up by moisture

No filter is safe from moisture(well except synthetic wire backed)but it sure is better in that situation to have metal end caps.
 
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