How to add drain plug on transmission pan?

[1 SX]

I was thinking, I drive alot, and dropping the pan every 3 months is kinda a real pain. I will change the filter maybe every year, but its messy, and 17 bolts. How would i add a drain bolt/plug so i can just unscrew the bolt, let the fluid drain, and be on my way? Thanks.

 

[FL_Rob]

I've used the drain plug kits that require only a drill (I forgot what size)and wrenches to tighten the the nut(use a lockwasher) and fitting,but they won't drain completely because of the height of the fitting into the pan.In your case with a partial change every three mo.,its not a big deal.Some have brazed the nut to the bottom of the pan to make it like a standard drain plug to solve that issue.Adding a magnefine filter would really extend filter changes,too.I dont know if any deep pans with a factory plug crosses with your tranny .possibly a 4l65 pan from a yard,its an idea it may be pricey also.

 

[FL_Rob]

Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
I've used the drain plug kits that require only a drill (I forgot what size)and wrenches to tighten the the nut(use a lockwasher) and fitting,but they won't drain completely because of the height of the fitting into the pan.In your case with a partial change every three mo.,its not a big deal.Some have brazed the nut to the bottom of the pan to make it like a standard drain plug to solve that issue.Adding a magnefine filter would really extend filter changes,too.I dont know if any deep pans with a factory plug crosses with your tranny .possibly a 4l65 pan from a yard,its an idea it may be pricey also.

just to clarify I used playdough in the 'cleaned up' pan to check for clearance/interference * BEFORE* I drilled the pan.and torq'd the capture nut to 40ft-lb.

 

[StevieC]

If you are going to do it, do it right. Locate someone that can drill a hole and braze the nut on for you.

Take off the pan, drill a hole and have the nut brazed to the outside of the pan on the lowest part of the pan.

Clean the pan and new bolt area up and paint the nut/brazing with high-quality Epoxy based paint or High-Heat BBQ style paint so that it will prevent it from rusting and then reinstall.

You can also check with performance shops and see if they carry a drain pan that has a drain on it already so it's just a matter of remove/replace.

PM me if you need more help as I have done a few of these for friends.

Steve

 

[Mr_Incredible]

I purchased a pan with a plug for my Camaro. It's a bit deeper, as well.

Since I have a welder I can weld a nut on the backside of the pan if I wanted to.

 

[jcwit]

What StevieC said. I did the same thing other than I had mine welded on, same results tho. I do a drain and fill every other oil change.

 

[StevieC]

Welding is fine if it's a tight seal all the way around, but braising looks better, doesn't usually rust because of the material used in the brazing and is usually tight seal first shot.

Whatever works, just no duct-tape or mighty-putty.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

You would only need to use short welds on the nut inside. The drain plug has a gasket on it on the outside. The inside is irrelevent.

Brazing is an art and I've done a bunch. I would rather weld in a nut. If anything is going to rust in your steel pan, you have much bigger problems than you thought.

 

[1 SX]

Thanks for the replies. This was not as easy as i thought... But dropping the pan every 10K seems worse. I do know a friend who has a welder, so i just might go that route.

 

[StevieC]

I have to drop the pan on my '89 cabriolet and there is even a strong guard that I have to take off as well that protects the pan but it's not all that bad IMO.

Time yourself next time you do it...

 

[Mr_Incredible]

I have a trick I use for the non-drain vehicles when I change tranny fluid.

I get the car warmed up good and suck out the fluid through the fill hole.. The pan drop isn't nearly so traumatic.

I have a 5gal steel bucket that I use for used oil. I have a vent hole as well as the main spout. I put a 6ft length of clear vinyl tubing down the tranny fill hole, put the other end of the tube into the bucket's vent hole, and put the shopvac hose over the bucket's main spout. Viola! Redneck vacuum pump.

Some fill holes have a stop at the bottom that prevents the hose from going all the way to the bottom of the pan. That can be removed once the pan is off. This technique doesn't get 100% of the fluid, but it makes things MUCH less messy.

This contraption also works well to suck out power steering fluid, brake fluid, and any other petroleum based fluid you might want to take to the recycle place.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

Originally Posted By: SL2
Thanks for the replies. This was not as easy as i thought... But dropping the pan every 10K seems worse. I do know a friend who has a welder, so i just might go that route.


Beware weld berries. Make sure all splatter is removed before placing back into service. Likewise with sanding debris. I have a lot of solvent and disposable rags I use to clean the gasket area, those would be great for a final cleaning of debris.

Make sure the pan and all items to be welded are super-clean. No oil on anything. Hit any area to be welded with a piece of rough sand paper or a wire wheel. Make sure you have a good clean area on the pan to place the ground clip.

Good luck.

 

[Trav]

I just pull the return line and fill a gallon jug with the engine running before pulling the pan.
You could even put a T fitting in the return line to pump it out without disconnecting the line.

 

[Papa Bear]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Welding is fine if it's a tight seal all the way around, but braising looks better, doesn't usually rust because of the material used in the brazing and is usually tight seal first shot.

Whatever works, just no duct-tape or mighty-putty.

Can you do my '07 Uplander ?? Do you have aluminum brazing rod ?

When I was a pipefitter in the '60's, I found that folks that brazed everything were poor welders.

 

[jcwit]

You can Tig weld aluminum also known as Heliarc welding. Not hard to do if you know what you're doing.

 

[mechtech2]

A search of online sources and parts stores will tell you what is available to you.
Some 'screw together' types can be improved with judicious use of additional JB weld.
No need for high heat paint in this application .

 

[1 SX]

Yeah, its pretty messy, thats my only issue. Trying to take the 17+ bolts off, all while hot transmission fluid is leaking out all over the place..

 

[ron917]

Is you braze a nut onto the pan, don't do what I did. I left the plug in the nut whiled I brazed it on. Both were zinc coated, and the brazing heat was hot enough to melt the zinc. So the plug was then zinc-brazed to the nut. I didn't know that until I tried to remove it at the next ATF change.

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
I've used the drain plug kits that require only a drill (I forgot what size)and wrenches to tighten the the nut(use a lockwasher) and fitting,but they won't drain completely because of the height of the fitting into the pan.In your case with a partial change every three mo.,its not a big deal.Some have brazed the nut to the bottom of the pan to make it like a standard drain plug to solve that issue.Adding a magnefine filter would really extend filter changes,too.I dont know if any deep pans with a factory plug crosses with your tranny .possibly a 4l65 pan from a yard,its an idea it may be pricey also.


how high does the plug kit stick up? couldn't you cross drill the part sticking up? are you getting the NAPA plug kit?
Is there a picture of it somewhere?

 

[FXjohn]

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?Ntt=spectre+transmission+pan+drain+plug+5449

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