I have been running Mobil 5w-40 since about 2005 in all my enignes. I have 4 UOA's for my Fit. 1K/1K, 3K/4K, 5K/9K, and 7.5K/16.5K (OCI/total miles). I am currently at 6500 miles on latest oil change with 20% oil life remaining. I would be happy to share the UOA reports with you, private e-mail me. My driving mix is 33% highway, 33% suburban, 33% light city. Average mpg for the Fit is 31 - 33 mpg. Straight highway cruising is 35 - 37 mpg. In Indiana where we will get a couple weeks of 0F - 15F mornings, I did not notice any cold start issues. Philip.
Has anyone tried a xw-40 in a 4cyl Honda?
- Thread starter buster
- Start date
- Status
Id' be interested to see how it works out-whichever one you choose. I've got the same car, except with auto trans. Oil history has been 5-20 dino 0-101K then PP (only cause it was 2.79/qt)5-30 since. quieter. miles -=just turned 130K all highway
Steve
Steve
I just replaced the PCV valve, which didn't need to be replaced. LOL It was perfectly fine, as Honda said it most likely would be.
steve, I'm only trying a 40 grade just out of curiosity to see if it cuts down on the 1/2qt per 4k miles of oil consumption I've had since day 1 with this car.
steve, I'm only trying a 40 grade just out of curiosity to see if it cuts down on the 1/2qt per 4k miles of oil consumption I've had since day 1 with this car.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Whatever you use, do a cost:benefit analysis on it. Forget any fuel economy issues, just check the cost of the product vs. the consumption rate over the miles used.
For example it wouldn't work out to use M1 0w-40 @ $6.99/quart without make up vs. $2.80 MC 5w-20 over the same OCI (with consumption). Now if you took it out to the same dollar-miles and saw no consumption with the M1/RTS/whatever, then sure.
For example it wouldn't work out to use M1 0w-40 @ $6.99/quart without make up vs. $2.80 MC 5w-20 over the same OCI (with consumption). Now if you took it out to the same dollar-miles and saw no consumption with the M1/RTS/whatever, then sure.
I would stick with the lighter oil for gas mileage and just keep topping off.
My wife has a 2006 Accord SE with... I think is the same 4 cyl engine.
My wife has a 2006 Accord SE with... I think is the same 4 cyl engine.
Buster, you have a manual trans? I think thin oils are good for automatics, but in a car w/manual trans, thicker oil makes for a better experience. If driven hard, like manuals tend to be, it may be a better option for engine wear protection too.
You're welcome to some Delo 30 from the stash.
Looking forward to your results, whichever you choose.
10w-30 dino....even MaxLife...?
You're welcome to some Delo 30 from the stash.
Looking forward to your results, whichever you choose.
10w-30 dino....even MaxLife...?
Patman
Staff member
Don't do it! A quart every 8k is nothing. If I were you I'd try the Toyota 0w20. My wife's Honda actually consumes less of this oil than it did with Schaeffer Supreme 5w30!
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Buster, you have a manual trans? I think thin oils are good for automatics, but in a car w/manual trans, thicker oil makes for a better experience. If driven hard, like manuals tend to be, it may be a better option for engine wear protection too.
You're welcome to some Delo 30 from the stash.
Looking forward to your results, whichever you choose.
10w-30 dino....even MaxLife...?
These are my choices.
Maxlife 5w/10w30
Rotella 10w30
Rotella 5w40
M1 5w40
Buster, you have a manual trans? I think thin oils are good for automatics, but in a car w/manual trans, thicker oil makes for a better experience. If driven hard, like manuals tend to be, it may be a better option for engine wear protection too.
You're welcome to some Delo 30 from the stash.
Looking forward to your results, whichever you choose.
10w-30 dino....even MaxLife...?
These are my choices.
Maxlife 5w/10w30
Rotella 10w30
Rotella 5w40
M1 5w40
Why don't you just stay with 5w-20 and change your oil every 3,000 miles?
That way your oil level will still be in the OK range when it is oil change time, and you won't need to add any oil.
And according to some sources, a shorter oil change interval may actually give you better fuel economy since the friction modifiers will still be working.
That way your oil level will still be in the OK range when it is oil change time, and you won't need to add any oil.
And according to some sources, a shorter oil change interval may actually give you better fuel economy since the friction modifiers will still be working.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Buster,
Why no M1 0W-40 on your list???
Maybe. 0w oils tend to burn off a bit more.
FWIW, I've had ZERO discernable consumption in the Expedition with the 0w40, and I've been towing with it. It is behaving just like the Delvac 1 in that regard.
It would go through 1L/7,500miles (12,000Km) of the 5w20.
-Chris
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Buster,
Why no M1 0W-40 on your list???
Maybe. 0w oils tend to burn off a bit more.
FWIW, I've had ZERO discernable consumption in the Expedition with the 0w40, and I've been towing with it. It is behaving just like the Delvac 1 in that regard.
It would go through 1L/7,500miles (12,000Km) of the 5w20.
-Chris
I threw in 3 qts of M1 HM 10w30 and 1 qt of 10w40. If this doesn't slow it down, I'm just going to stick with a 5w20. Maybe Valvoline Maxlife blend. There is an actual chemistry behind the Valvoline HM oils. Not sure about Mobil's HM oils. May just be a viscosity fix.
Good call. Let us know the effect.
Just did a 120 mile round trip. Yikes. Major sluggishness. I had the air on, which didn't help any, but it fees like I lost 20 hp. I remember a few years ago I ran GC for awhile and it too made the engine sluggish. Back to 5w20/30 for good unless things improve.
The extra shot of 10w-40 may have been overkill. Maybe the 5w-30 HM with the Starburst would have been closer to normal.
Stick it out for at least 5k. Won't seem as bad after a while, plus the heat of the summer.
- Status