Drum brake problem

[road_rascal]

I posted this question on automotiveforums.com and haven't had a decent answer yet, so here it is again:

A year ago (now 11K on the rears) I replaced the rear drum brakes on my (wifes) '99 Taurus. I put in new shoes, drums, spring hardware and wheel cylinders. Lately there's been a lot of grinding/squeaking from the rear brakes when they're applied (like rusty disc brakes after sitting outside for awhile). It doesn't do it when I apply the parking brake when the car is moving (about 10-15mph). I pulled off the drums (look OK), the shoes look new, nothing is leaking, etc. I lightly sanded the drums and shoes and cleaned them up with brake cleaner. The sound went away for a few weeks and then returned. There wasn't any noise for at least a few months after I replaced everything. I don't drive this car much, but I do all the maintenance on it. The only thing I can think of is that I got a bad batch of shoes and or drums. I bought the drums from Carquest Auto Parts and the shoes from Checker (Raybestos). Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[JTK]

RR, is the noise steady or does it pulse? Reason I ask is, I had a similar situation with my 2001 Windstar. I replaced everything but the drums. I would get a grind/knock noise during light braking. I pulled the drums, sanded, cleaned and reinstalled a few times and it would come back in a week or so. It turned out one of drums was slightly out of round. During light braking, the OOR drum would cause the shoes to knock against the backing plate. A new set of Carquest drums fixed it.

Joel

 

[Quest]

JTK is correct. I would replace the drums and the shoes again.

Also: it is not a good idea to sand the brake shoes with abrasive papers (emerald cloth, wet/dry sandpaper, etc.)for the abrasives may embed into the friction lining material causing uneven yet rapid wear. Whenever something happens to brake friction materials (such as oil-soaked, glazed, etc.) always find out what is the cause of that problem and promptly resolve it first before replacing the friction material with new ones.

Q.

 

[road_rascal]

It's a steady noise. I hate to spend the $$$ on new drums and shoes. Could I just replace the drums, or should I replace everything (except the spring hardware and wheel cylinders)?

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: road_rascal
It's a steady noise. I hate to spend the $$$ on new drums and shoes. Could I just replace the drums, or should I replace everything (except the spring hardware and wheel cylinders)?


If the spring hardware is old, I'd replace it. I had really bad drum brake noise on my previous Ranger after I changed the brakes. As it turns out, the cheapo hardware I got at Advance Auto Parts was not allowing the brakes to self-adjust properly and I was getting the noise as a result. New hardware fixed the issue.

 

[road_rascal]

Spring hardware (Raybestos brand) was new last year and has about 11K on it. Everything that could be replaced, was, except for the backing plate.

 

[RH+G]

Sound like the brakes are not adjusted properly. That is why the noise goes away you apply the parking brake

 

[bigjeffie]

this probably wont jive w/ your philosophy-
but-
the rear drum brakes on my tundra have been seized for some time.

I go in, do this, that, the other...like you,
well, didnt do a complete enough job
continued issues.

now i just ignore them.
rear drums don't seem to do a whole lot for braking anyway.
i have no emergency brake, but otherwise I dont even think of it.

good luck w/ your issues though

 

[road_rascal]

I just took it out for a nice 50 mile drive, and at slow speeds with the parking brake slightly applied, it still makes a small amount of noise. As for adjustments, what else is there to do than use the star adjuster so there's a very slight drag when you spin the wheels? I won't be able to inspect the brakes for a couple of weeks (heated garage at work is a mess). I appreciate all the replies.

 

[Buffman]

I had a similiar issue with my Roadmaster. IIRC wearever drums (brand new) and reman riveted Bendix shoes. After a year with them on, the car acted like the brakes were binding at low speeds when applied. Fine some days, worse other days. Finally got to the point where it was doing it more often. I thought maybe the Eaton was going out. Once I heard it doing it while applying the brake, I went and got new Drums and Shoes. (Duralast) Problem gone.

I think I might have severly glazed over the shoes from all the powerbrake burnouts I did at the track before I got the line lock

 

[1sttruck]

Did a rear brake job on the 99 Taurus last fall, replacing one drum as it get scored. I ended up with noise on the brake with the replaced drum when driving at low speeds, like a grinding noise, which went away when braking. I must have had the wheel off half a dozen times trying to find the problem. I suspected that it was out of round, Schucks replaced the drum, but it still made noise. I bought another drum at Schucks to replace the drum on the other side, and explaind to Schucks that if they both made noise I'd return both of the drums. Eventually figured out that the brakes needed to be adjusted instead of relying upon self adjustment in order to get the noise go away.

 

[mechtech2]

I don't see how an adjustment could affect it. So what if the shoes have to travel another .020" before they engage the drum?
I'd grease the shoe/backing plate pads/points.

Maybe the problem is the shoe material.

You could also try a brake bleed.

 

[Squishy]

Could it be uneven deposits on the drum?

Do ten firm stops from 30 mph followed by five from 50 mph, with a cool-down period of ~ a mile in between. That should deposit a good, even amount.

 

[road_rascal]

I bled the brakes (replaced wheel cylinders) and greased all the points on the backing plate. Carquest said I could return the drums anytime and get replacements. I'll probably get another set of shoes and see if that does the trick. Once I get them replaced again I'll report back. Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

[1sttruck]

"I don't see how an adjustment could affect it. So what if the shoes have to travel another .020" before they engage the drum?"

With adjustment the noise went away. Perhaps the leading edge of the shoes was catching a bit.

 

[fatjack]

Sounds like you didn't break in your brakes, you need to do 10 moderate slow downs form 50 to 20 mph in a safe manner, then drive for 2-3 minutes to allow for cool down before slowing down again. This will help with the bedding process. Than due 500 miles of driving your breaks will be good to go.

 

[alreadygone]

Ever since mfgrs. quit using asbestos I've had rear noise complaints. I've come to believe it's from the black brake dust that accumulates in drum from normal wear, as you can pull drum and dump dust, without ANY other action inside drum and noise will go away. (1) Noise won't hurt a darn thing. (2) if it botherd me that bad, I'd first try a different brand/Qualty level shoe without any other changes.

Best,

Bob

 

[RH+G]

Sounds like you need to make the brakes tighter. A "slight amount of drag" might not be enough. Its hard to say without being their but is sounds like you need more adjustment.

 

[Buffman]

on my issue, the shoes had been adjusted numerous amounts of time with no change. IMO it's pretty hard to bed in a set of rear brakes as more often than not most rear drum cars havethe front brakes doing most of the work on stops due to the prop valve.

 

[road_rascal]

I suppose I could find an empty parking lot and do a few high speed reverse braking procedures

!