Which antifreeze should i use in my hotrod stroked chevy small block with a stock style brass radiator and maybe a aluminum radiator later. I have read about all the comments on green snot and dexcool sludge, so which is best?
which antifreeze
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I'd go with Zerek G-05.
I would read this article:
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2822&location_id=2877
Which states:
We have in previous articles
pointed out that today’s coolant inhibitor
packages contain a small amount
of copper-brass protection, but may
provide little protection if a radiator is
made with high-lead solder. Results of
industry standard tests of the new Toyota
extended-life coolant now show a
substantial weight loss (corrosion), both
in a 50-50 mix and in a 33% coolant
mixture (solder corrosion is much
greater in this more diluted solution).
If you have to change a radiator or
heater core, use aluminum. Or, if it’s an
older car and the owner wants the lowest-
cost radiator, you might procure a
soldered-together copper-brass unit.
Conventional American coolant should
provide better protection against solder
corrosion, which can result in radiator
tube restrictions and leaks. But no
coolant provides perfect protection.
If you’re replacing aluminum parts on
an engine, such as a water pump or even
a new cylinder head, remember that
part’s coolant passages have not been
protected. In those cases you should
perform a complete coolant exchange.
Then....go with your gut instinct.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2822&location_id=2877
Which states:
We have in previous articles
pointed out that today’s coolant inhibitor
packages contain a small amount
of copper-brass protection, but may
provide little protection if a radiator is
made with high-lead solder. Results of
industry standard tests of the new Toyota
extended-life coolant now show a
substantial weight loss (corrosion), both
in a 50-50 mix and in a 33% coolant
mixture (solder corrosion is much
greater in this more diluted solution).
If you have to change a radiator or
heater core, use aluminum. Or, if it’s an
older car and the owner wants the lowest-
cost radiator, you might procure a
soldered-together copper-brass unit.
Conventional American coolant should
provide better protection against solder
corrosion, which can result in radiator
tube restrictions and leaks. But no
coolant provides perfect protection.
If you’re replacing aluminum parts on
an engine, such as a water pump or even
a new cylinder head, remember that
part’s coolant passages have not been
protected. In those cases you should
perform a complete coolant exchange.
Then....go with your gut instinct.
hmmm, I am putting on a aluminum water pump too and the heads are also aluminum.
so do you mean doitmyself that i should go with Go5 and change out the old radiator soon?
so do you mean doitmyself that i should go with Go5 and change out the old radiator soon?
Kestas
Staff member
Copper/brass radiators that are lead soldered are best protected by the old silicated formulae.
Aluminum radiators are best protected by the G-05 HOAT formulae.
Because I own a bone-stock 71 Cutlass, I started a thread on this last July, which was subsequently filled with excellent posts (especially from doitmyself) and links to good information:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...amp;Main=943911
Aluminum radiators are best protected by the G-05 HOAT formulae.
Because I own a bone-stock 71 Cutlass, I started a thread on this last July, which was subsequently filled with excellent posts (especially from doitmyself) and links to good information:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...amp;Main=943911
You guys keep forgetting that today's conventional green coolant is not the high silicate formula of yesteryear. Go to Zerex's site to see that today's conventional green coolant is reduced silicate and they say it is good for 100K miles or 5 years (I personally wouldn't go over 50K/3years, just my opinion.) In my vehicle, I don't run the G05 out to the max. 5 yr./150,000 life span either.
The Zerex conventional green is even recommended for diesels if you add SCA. The old high silicate "green snot" was NEVER recommended in diesels due to cavitation issues.
Silicates protect aluminum - both conventional and G05 would work in your case. If I had to choose, since your vehicle has "old school" metals, I would choose old school coolant.
You will just have to change it a bit more often.
Either product will work for you. IF the internet banter is correct, the conventional MIGHT protect that brass/copper radiator a bit better.
Thanks, so by old school engine parts do you mean that the new green is better for the engine too and not just my old radiator.
Because I will change the radiator maybe next year.
Because I will change the radiator maybe next year.
I suggest you call the companies up and ask them. G-05 supposedly protects longer. Better? I don't know.
Both Texaco and Zerek recommend the conventional for "older" vehicles: http://www.texaco.com/yourcar/havolinecoolants/findRightCoolant.aspI I subliminally interjected "vintage" into your description of "hotrod stroked chevy small block".
It's very difficult to come up with data to support facts on "what's best" issues. Mostly we form opinions based on the tidbits of information available. My personal preference is to usually (not always) follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Good luck!
Both Texaco and Zerek recommend the conventional for "older" vehicles: http://www.texaco.com/yourcar/havolinecoolants/findRightCoolant.aspI I subliminally interjected "vintage" into your description of "hotrod stroked chevy small block".
It's very difficult to come up with data to support facts on "what's best" issues. Mostly we form opinions based on the tidbits of information available. My personal preference is to usually (not always) follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
Good luck!
Kestas
Staff member
If built is changing out the radiator in a year, there's no need to consider an antifreeze that'll protect it, unless there's a copper/brass heater core. He should be looking to an antifreeze that'll protect the next radiator.
I was planning to replace my stock radiator with a aluminum one but who knows i may not change it if i don't need to.
Kestas I couldn't get your link to work and neither could i get doityourselfs to work.
So the new green is the best for me then correct ? I don't mind changing it more often.
Kestas I couldn't get your link to work and neither could i get doityourselfs to work.
So the new green is the best for me then correct ? I don't mind changing it more often.
Kestas
Staff member
Does this help?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post949756
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post949756
Thanks Kestas, Looks like maybe the tradional green is good for aluminum and brass cores.
I wasn't sure if the Greens still caused sludge or if the new greens had enough silacates to protect aluminum and brass cores and engine parts.
I wasn't sure if the Greens still caused sludge or if the new greens had enough silacates to protect aluminum and brass cores and engine parts.
Originally Posted By: built
I wasn't sure if the Greens still caused sludge or if the new greens had enough silacates to protect aluminum and brass cores and engine parts.
I have been in the cooling and Radiator business most of my working life.
I have never seen a cooling system sludged up from Green coolant unless it has never been maintained. I think most on this board care for there cars better than the average guy so I don't see a problem with running the old green stuff.
Odd as it sounds the new coolants make more of a mess than the old ones did when there is a problem.
I wasn't sure if the Greens still caused sludge or if the new greens had enough silacates to protect aluminum and brass cores and engine parts.
I have been in the cooling and Radiator business most of my working life.
I have never seen a cooling system sludged up from Green coolant unless it has never been maintained. I think most on this board care for there cars better than the average guy so I don't see a problem with running the old green stuff.
Odd as it sounds the new coolants make more of a mess than the old ones did when there is a problem.
Hi
Here is some food for thought. VW uses G12 ( Pentosin lifetime antifreeze G001200) It is red (pink) and in my diesel's. never any sludge. It has been in over seven years. Had to add 3 liters when I did the water pump and timing belt change out at 1000,000. Bit pricey but lifetime! Will be changing the cycle over to G12 this spring also. WILL NOT MIX WITH OTHER ANTIFREEZE!!!!
Here is some food for thought. VW uses G12 ( Pentosin lifetime antifreeze G001200) It is red (pink) and in my diesel's. never any sludge. It has been in over seven years. Had to add 3 liters when I did the water pump and timing belt change out at 1000,000. Bit pricey but lifetime! Will be changing the cycle over to G12 this spring also. WILL NOT MIX WITH OTHER ANTIFREEZE!!!!
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I have been in the cooling and Radiator business most of my working life.
I have never seen a cooling system sludged up from Green coolant unless it has never been maintained. I think most on this board care for there cars better than the average guy so I don't see a problem with running the old green stuff.
Odd as it sounds the new coolants make more of a mess than the old ones did when there is a problem.
I'll second that.
The old reliable green anti-freeze can withstand a lot of abuse and neglect.
Whereas Dex-cool has been known for turning into a red sludge with the slightest malfunction of the cooling system.
My personal favorite for many years has been regular green "Texaco Anti-freeze Coolant" in the black bottle.
http://www.texacoxpresslube.com/products/coolants.asp
I have been in the cooling and Radiator business most of my working life.
I have never seen a cooling system sludged up from Green coolant unless it has never been maintained. I think most on this board care for there cars better than the average guy so I don't see a problem with running the old green stuff.
Odd as it sounds the new coolants make more of a mess than the old ones did when there is a problem.
I'll second that.
The old reliable green anti-freeze can withstand a lot of abuse and neglect.
Whereas Dex-cool has been known for turning into a red sludge with the slightest malfunction of the cooling system.
My personal favorite for many years has been regular green "Texaco Anti-freeze Coolant" in the black bottle.
http://www.texacoxpresslube.com/products/coolants.asp
Originally Posted By: 1sparrow
VW uses G12 ( Pentosin lifetime antifreeze G001200) It is red (pink) and in my diesel's. never any sludge. It has been in over seven years.
I believe that it's what BASF calls "Glysantin G 30". Basically it's another DexCool type OAT.
Glysantin G 30 is nitrite-free, amine-free, phosphate-free, silicate-free, and borate-free and meets VW standard TL774D.
As such, it's pretty much subject to the same problems that DexCool exhibits in some cars.
A more universal coolant would be G-05. Glysantin G 05 uses a hybrid corrosion inhibitor package (HOAT) with nitrites, salts of organic acids and silicates, but is free of amines
and phosphates. It works with both ferrous and aluminium alloys. Due to its nitrite content it can be used with diesel that would otherwise exhibit cavitation erosion.
It's also very tolerant of hard water.
VW uses G12 ( Pentosin lifetime antifreeze G001200) It is red (pink) and in my diesel's. never any sludge. It has been in over seven years.
I believe that it's what BASF calls "Glysantin G 30". Basically it's another DexCool type OAT.
Glysantin G 30 is nitrite-free, amine-free, phosphate-free, silicate-free, and borate-free and meets VW standard TL774D.
As such, it's pretty much subject to the same problems that DexCool exhibits in some cars.
A more universal coolant would be G-05. Glysantin G 05 uses a hybrid corrosion inhibitor package (HOAT) with nitrites, salts of organic acids and silicates, but is free of amines
and phosphates. It works with both ferrous and aluminium alloys. Due to its nitrite content it can be used with diesel that would otherwise exhibit cavitation erosion.
It's also very tolerant of hard water.
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