Cleaning and lubricating the Glock

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For shooting cans or targets lube as much as you want, and expect malfunctions if you lube too much and the lube gets fouled. For defensive or offensive use follow the maker's and/or issuing organization's directions, where weapons are expected to be cleaned very well and often kept surprisingly dry. The more sand and dust in the area, the drier the weapon.

In spite of the complaints about the need for a better lube for the M16 due to jams in Iraq, the last tests by the military that I saw found that BreakFree did better than the other recommended 'botique' oils.
 
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The more sand and dust in the area, the drier the weapon.



A recent test by the military has shown this not to be true. Heavier lube is better.

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found that BreakFree did better than the other recommended 'botique' oils.



Heard about that, but I did not get a chance to see what they tested and how.

Glocks are mechanically beautiful inside, it's just the ergonomics that are terrible (to me). The XDs solved this problem IMHO.
 
I did not notice additional replies here until now. What kind of gun oil or gun grease do you use on your Glock/Glocks?
 
I would echo 1sttruck's comments about over lubrication.

Moisture attracks dirt and grime. Over lube and you get an undesirable condition. Every Glock class I've attended only covers lubing the rail/slide contact points, the barrell, and the trigger-bar/connector point of contact. Period.

Now, if you fall into the lake, pool, hog-trough or what-not, then yes, that extreme moisture saturation needs to be dealt with as soon as practical. If you can't do a total strip down, then get to an armorer who can. I have never known a Glock's firing pin to rust just from "useage". And lubing the plunger is un-necessary. If it gets wet, clean it, but don't introduce oil into an area that doesn't require it.

BTW, the "tennifer" treatment is the process that hardens and strengthens the Glock surfaces. The black external surface coating (can't remember it's name) is NOT for durability; it's purpose is for asthetic and concealment purposes.
 
http://www.militarytimes.com/news/2007/07/army_carbine_lubrication_070716/
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Treated with light lubrication, new M16A4s and M4s, performed poorly in the extreme dust and sand conditions of the test, according to a January report from ATEC.

But when testers applied a heavy coat of lubrication to the weapons, the test results showed a “significant improvement.”

Out of the 60,000 rounds fired in each phase, the M4 stoppage-rate dropped from 9,836 with light lubrication to 678 with heavy lubrication.

The M16A4 stoppage-rate dropped from 2,124 with light lubrication to 507 with heavy lubrication, results show.



 
Yes, there are actually three lubrication points on the barrel and also on the hood of the gun above the barrel, and then the slide rails and the trigger bar/connector point of contact. So if a person lubricates the barrel well (except for the back of the barrel) all of those lubrication points will be covered, and then the slide rails and the point of contact between the trigger bar and connector.
 
The only thing is that the regular gun oil or CLP or grease will attract a lot of dust. I think the military needs some kind of special dry lubrication in areas where there is a lot of dust and sand. Maybe some kind of graphited lubricate.
 
Graphite+water+aluminum = bad for gun. Galvanic corrosion.

I've always been heavy with lube and never had a problem. Best "dry" lube I have used is Eezox.
 
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http://www.militarytimes.com/news/2007/07/army_carbine_lubrication_070716/
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Treated with light lubrication, new M16A4s and M4s, performed poorly in the extreme dust and sand conditions of the test, according to a January report from ATEC.

But when testers applied a heavy coat of lubrication to the weapons, the test results showed a “significant improvement.”

Out of the 60,000 rounds fired in each phase, the M4 stoppage-rate dropped from 9,836 with light lubrication to 678 with heavy lubrication.

The M16A4 stoppage-rate dropped from 2,124 with light lubrication to 507 with heavy lubrication, results show.








The M16 is still plagued by the same problems that cursed it 50 years ago.The M-16 and its successor, the shorter M4, are known for their finickiness, jamming in even the most innocuous conditions. In combat, the unreliability of the rifle can be deadly.
 
I haven't seen values for what was actually used, but have the impression that they were using fairly fine dust/sand as teh conditions were supposed to simulate a dust storm. It doesn't sound like they heavily lubed the weapons and rolled them around in coarse beach or desert sand.
 
Well, I went shooting recently and the gun became pretty dirty. I shot more rounds than I should have at one time.

Anyway, I am impressed with the MC-25 gun cleaner from Milcomm. It can be used indoors because it does not have a strong chemical smell. And it did a good job of cleaning.

I am not as impressed with Gunbutter. There was some more wear on the barrel after shooting then had been there before. I would rather use TW25B gun oil and gun grease. Although I have occasional used TW25B gun oil and gun grease in the past I have not really given the product a really good testing. These products are also made by Milcomm.

I am still waiting for the Jardine's Custom extreme use gun grease. It has not arrived yet.

From what I can see right now Hoppes gun oil is adequate. Maybe the TW25B products will be better. I am hoping the Jardine's Custom stuff will be a lot better.
 
I should add probably that the Gunbutter is not made by Milcomm. The TW25B gun oil and gun grease and the MC-25 gun cleaner are made by Milcomm.
 
I don't know who makes Gun Butter but it is to expensive and over hyped.
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Gun Butter is a new technology for specialty lubricants. It is an exotic blend of the finest synthetic lubricants available anywhere in the world. Gun Butter's creation was inspired by shooters who desired consistent function in their shotgun, rifle, and pistol competitions during extreme shooting conditions. Gun Butter was created by an aerospace design team using a Continuous Quality Improvement Process to specifically engineer a complete lubricant for guns.



A bunch of blather.
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micro-mono layer



What does that mean??
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Some people love this stuff, but I must say that I am not surprised by your results. I think you will like the Jardine's much better.

Thanks for the report and glad you like the MC-25.
 
Yes, thanks for telling me about MC-25. So far I have been impressed by it. I can use in indoors because it does not have a strong chemical smell and it seems to clean as well as MPro7 (Hoppes Elite). It is water based. Unless there are problems with corrosion or something I will strongly endorse MC-25.

The stuff I got from Wilson Combat does not impress me much. I will use it up on my SIGs.

After I get the Jardine Custom grease I will give it a try. I don't plan on testing any more stuff. It gets expensive to do testing. But I did want to find the safest to use and most effective cleaners and gun lubes I could find.

It will probably come down to either the Jardine Custom gun grease or else the TW25B grease and TW25B gun oil. I found out just today I can in fact still get the TW25B products locally. But I will probably have to order the MC-25 directly from Milcomm.

I plan on continuing to use the MC-25 gun cleaner. It is a better buy than Hoppes Elite. When I am able to clean outdoors I don't mind Hoppes No. 9. But I don't like to use Hoppes No. 9 indoors. Hoppes No. 9 is probably mainly kerosene. I can handle it but not these bore cleaners that have a smell bad enough to knock a person over.

The Jardine Custom gun grease is actually cheaper than the MC25B gun grease. So I hope the Jardine Custom gun grease works.
 
If you use a phosphor bronze bore brush and hot water then you don't even need to use bore cleaner.

It really works. Just hold your barrel under water and run the brush (preferably one a couple sizes larger than your caliber, I use a .45 brush for a 9mm barrel) back and forth through the barrel a dozen times or so and it will come out spotless.

Towel it off and use compressed air to get the rest of the water out.

Try it sometime, you might be surprised.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
If you use a phosphor bronze bore brush and hot water then you don't even need to use bore cleaner.

It really works. Just hold your barrel under water and run the brush (preferably one a couple sizes larger than your caliber, I use a .45 brush for a 9mm barrel) back and forth through the barrel a dozen times or so and it will come out spotless.

Towel it off and use compressed air to get the rest of the water out.

Try it sometime, you might be surprised.


I ONLY (just to avoid any possible confusion) do this to my barrel, but I must agree that a slightly oversized brush, hot water and plain 'ol dishwashing soap cleans as good as any application-specific product I have ever tried.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Glocks can rust!
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Sure, any gun can rust if it is abused. I have gone scuba diving in the ocean a dozen or more times with my Glock and not a speck of rust on it.

Of course, I clean it ASAP after diving and use spring cups.
 
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its better to UNDER grease a Glock than to OVER grease it.. go to GlockTalk.com pleny of info there... i have a g19 9mm with a tactical light and [censored] i love that thing.. whoever said they are over rated in the combat guns line really needs a kick in the arse and an education..
 
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