Yowza!

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Alright, so I bought a new truck earlier in the year. I just passed 600 miles so I removed the filter and replaced it with another. I dissected the original filter and it doesn't look pretty. This oil will be drained at 1,000 miles just to clear out the garbage and then it's going straight to 5,000 mile intervals per the manual.
 
Holy cow! Yeah, good call on the early drain/filter change.. that looks scary. If you hadn't said it was a new truck, I'd be telling you to get that to a mechanic STAT!
 
I'm a firm believer in an early first oil change on a new or rebuilt engine. Looking at the pictures of a filter from a new engine, that only reaffirms my position on early oil and filter changes. I've done that with every new or rebuilt engine I've owned. That being said, this is just my opinion on oil changes.
 
Hmmm. I hope the next change has a lot fewer disco bits in it. The odd bit of stuff isn't unusual, but there are some longer and larger ones lurking in there.

What kind of truck was it? Anything remarkable about your drive cycle?
 
With that much break in material I would NOT go 5,000, I would do another short run with cheaper oil and get that stuff flushed out.
 
This is from a 2017 Nissan Frontier with the QR25DE 2.5 liter engine. This has 600 miles on it. I put another Nissan filter on and will change it along with the oil at 1,000 miles. Hopefully this is just from the initial junk. Much of this is ferrous so that's from the cam chain and tensioner, the cams, the oil pump, etc.

The canister was absolutely pristine so everything is sitting in the media. This was the factory installed filter and it was a Japanese made Mahle. Their aftermarket number for this engine is Mahle OC575. I'll probably use them after I deplete the Mexican made Gonher filters that the dealership provided.
 
Wow, that's a lot of break-in material. I've always cut open the factory filter on the first oil change of new vehicles, and have never seen anything close to that amount of debris.
 
When a brand new off the production line engine produces that much swarf in 600 miles, you guys should all be aware of why I advocate dumping the FF as soon as you get your car home, and to have done 4 or 5 oil&filter changes in the first 1000 miles.

People run their FF to 5k thinking its a good idea?!?! This thread shows why they're wrong.
 
While we have no way of knowing, I'd think that most of these debris are manufacturing artifacts not properly cleaned from the block and head prior to assembly.
The longer pieces certainly look like machining debris and not anything break-in would produce.
Shame on Nissan!
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
While we have no way of knowing, I'd think that most of these debris are manufacturing artifacts not properly cleaned from the block and head prior to assembly.
The longer pieces certainly look like machining debris and not anything break-in would produce.
Shame on Nissan!


Parts are supposed to be cleaned after machining. Either way, the image shows a serious problem that need to be addressed, the only band aid or crutch in the meantime is VERY frequent changes.
 
Nissan has moved down near the bottom of car reliability ratings, this may be one reason why, it could be normal, but it sure seems abnormal.
maybe everyone should stop cutting open aftermarket fllters and cut open NEW CAR FILTERS
 
I agree with all of you. I am a bit worried about this but there's not much I can do. I'll check it again in 600 more miles and see if there's a nice improvement.
 
When my 2103 Nissan Rogue was new, I cut open the factory filter at about 1,500 miles. It was pristine.
 
I wonder how much good extra oil changes would do? The filter catches what it can and that debris is trapped. New filter and oil isn't going to anything different. I would certainly change the filter before it has so much swarf in it that it goes ino bypass.
 
I will NEVER, EVER buy a Nissan product thanks to dealing with my son’s 2008 Xterra. See the links below to see why.


Transmission cooler/radiator defect:

https://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/08...-failures/?_r=0
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=6923&sid=6ff7c5570bbb47e2c71807583dd1acf5


Timing chain tensioner defect:

http://www.kgglaw.com/resources/investor-consumer-bulletin/nissan-timing-chain-defect-matter/


Chassis defect on Navara (European version of Frontier):

https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/2791663/nissan-navara-safety-fears/

I caught the trans cooler issue in time and bypassed the radiator a year ago. So far so good.
Haven’t had a problem with the tensioner yet but he’s keeping an ear open for strange sounds.


I know all car manufacturers have some issues but it seems to me that Nissan has more than their fair share. What really ticks me off though is that they do not own up to it and stand behind their products.

You’re SOL as far as they are concerned.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
When a brand new off the production line engine produces that much swarf in 600 miles, you guys should all be aware of why I advocate dumping the FF as soon as you get your car home, and to have done 4 or 5 oil&filter changes in the first 1000 miles.

People run their FF to 5k thinking its a good idea?!?! This thread shows why they're wrong.


I like a little grit in the oil. Helps to seal the rings. You could change the factory fill at 10K miles, and an oil change every 10K miles, on most cars, and the engine would happily motor along well past 300K miles, no problem.
 
Originally Posted By: 46Harry
I'm a firm believer in an early first oil change on a new or rebuilt engine. Looking at the pictures of a filter from a new engine, that only reaffirms my position on early oil and filter changes. I've done that with every new or rebuilt engine I've owned. That being said, this is just my opinion on oil changes.


+1

Does Honda (and some other manufacturers) still recommend leaving the factory fill in for the entire first interval? I'd have a hard time doing that...
 
Could that be from cutting the filter open? I dumped the FF in my Jeep at 6k, and there wasn't a spec of metal I could see in the cartridge.
 
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