How can the oil industy create a standard for outboard engines, have stores sell it for 2.50 a quart and tell me it's better than Mobile 1 full syn. How can that be? Are they just loading up the dino juice with Moly and Boron? What am I missing here?
You can't tell me it's better
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Corrosion inhibitors...I think if your engine required 10W-30, that a 10W-30 HDEO might be just as good.
Someone wil correct that.
Someone wil correct that.
Originally Posted By: MGregoir
Corrosion inhibitors...I think if your engine required 10W-30, that a 10W-30 HDEO might be just as good.
Someone wil correct that.
ditto . Marine use is very hard on an engine .
Corrosion inhibitors...I think if your engine required 10W-30, that a 10W-30 HDEO might be just as good.
Someone wil correct that.
ditto . Marine use is very hard on an engine .
JHZR2
Staff member
if it is so hard on engines, then it may be an application where changing more often is the smarter way to go, no matter how superior syn oils may be...
JMH
JMH
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
if it is so hard on engines, then it may be an application where changing more often is the smarter way to go, no matter how superior syn oils may be...
JMH
Only a uoa will tell for sure.
if it is so hard on engines, then it may be an application where changing more often is the smarter way to go, no matter how superior syn oils may be...
JMH
Only a uoa will tell for sure.
Ok, so I'm doing my oil change today and have two questions. I have 2 quarts of Mobile 1 Full Syn 10w40 High Mileage and 2 quarts of the Shell Rotella 15w40. The Mobile 1 was 3 times as much but I've been told the Rotella would work pretty well. What would you use? I also have some Valvoline Full Syn 75/90 Gear Oil that I can use for my Lower Unit. This is a 40 HP Four Stroke Outboard and the manual say I can use 80 or 90 weight lube for the lower unit. Thanks guys.
How often do you use the boat? If you are going to hour out this oil with the boat in use I don't think using automotive products would be as big of concern as if you were storing the boat, in that case I would use an HDEO or a marine oil.
The Rotella is closer to a marine oil than the M1, is heavier, more detergent and has corrosion inhibitors. The M1 has agents in it to swell seals.
As far as gear oil for the lower unit I would be more worried about using a marine oil in that than the engine for sure, as it gets changed less often and sees more abuse.
The Rotella is closer to a marine oil than the M1, is heavier, more detergent and has corrosion inhibitors. The M1 has agents in it to swell seals.
As far as gear oil for the lower unit I would be more worried about using a marine oil in that than the engine for sure, as it gets changed less often and sees more abuse.
Originally Posted By: MGregoir
The M1 has agents in it to swell seals.
Thanks for the Info and I heard the same thing about the seals and thought better of it. In a month or two this boat will hit the water 2 or 3 times a week. For the most part I idle for hours picking up crab traps. The only time I'm running at speed would be to get the crabbing grounds (15 minutes) and coming back to the ramp. I went ahead and put 2 quarts of Rotella T dino in her and changed out the Wix filter with a Mobile 1. I cahnge the oil 2 or 3 times a season and the lower unit oil once a season. I've taken good care of the motor and just had the carbs rebuilt. I'm sure the Rotella will be great this Summer. Thanks again.
The M1 has agents in it to swell seals.
Thanks for the Info and I heard the same thing about the seals and thought better of it. In a month or two this boat will hit the water 2 or 3 times a week. For the most part I idle for hours picking up crab traps. The only time I'm running at speed would be to get the crabbing grounds (15 minutes) and coming back to the ramp. I went ahead and put 2 quarts of Rotella T dino in her and changed out the Wix filter with a Mobile 1. I cahnge the oil 2 or 3 times a season and the lower unit oil once a season. I've taken good care of the motor and just had the carbs rebuilt. I'm sure the Rotella will be great this Summer. Thanks again.
Originally Posted By: Badlees
How can the oil industy create a standard for outboard engines, have stores sell it for 2.50 a quart and tell me it's better than Mobile 1 full syn. How can that be? Are they just loading up the dino juice with Moly and Boron? What am I missing here?
you think industries are honest?
don't be naive, especially when selling a product is concerned.
How can the oil industy create a standard for outboard engines, have stores sell it for 2.50 a quart and tell me it's better than Mobile 1 full syn. How can that be? Are they just loading up the dino juice with Moly and Boron? What am I missing here?
you think industries are honest?
don't be naive, especially when selling a product is concerned.
Simply adding the word "marine" to any product instantly doubles the value. I'm not being sarcastic in the least. It does not mean it's better in any way. The local boat store wants $24/gallon for Mercury's "quicksilver" brand of 2 cycle oil. Non synthetic. The local auto store sells Pennzoil semi synthetic "everything" oil for $15/gallon. And it's better.
On that same note Mercury wants over $400 for a distributor cap on my outboard.
On that same note Mercury wants over $400 for a distributor cap on my outboard.
I've been told that the genuine marine oils have more anti-foaming agents since the engines tend to spend a great deal of time at higher RPMs . . . 3,000 to 4,600 is typical on my inboard/outboard Merc 4.3. I have no idea if this is really true, but it worked on me and I've stuck with Quicksilver oils. They are priced cheaper at Academy than at the local boat dealer. I use a standard automotive oil filter (Purolator), however.
For the next season I may try a decent non-marine oil and keep an eye on the oil pressure. If it stays normal then I assume that would mean no foaming.
For the next season I may try a decent non-marine oil and keep an eye on the oil pressure. If it stays normal then I assume that would mean no foaming.
Originally Posted By: kgvickers
I've been told that the genuine marine oils have more anti-foaming agents since the engines tend to spend a great deal of time at higher RPMs . . . 3,000 to 4,600 is typical on my inboard/outboard Merc 4.3. I have no idea if this is really true, but it worked on me and I've stuck with Quicksilver oils. They are priced cheaper at Academy than at the local boat dealer. I use a standard automotive oil filter (Purolator), however.
For the next season I may try a decent non-marine oil and keep an eye on the oil pressure. If it stays normal then I assume that would mean no foaming.
I have the same 4.3L engine and I use Rotella, Caterpillar, or Delo HDEO's in 15w40 and they all hold the same oil pressure I had with Mercruiser's 25W-40 synthetic marine oil. Engine runs just as smooth and quiet with the HDEO's as with the Merc oil too, even for extended WOT runs at 4600-4800 rpm.
I don't have a problem with using Merc's oil, but it's very hard to find around here & the HDEO's can be had anywhere.
Last OCI I used a Napa Gold filter, but I found that my local Wal Mart sells Quicksilver filters for about the same $$ so I'll use the Quicksilver next time.
I've been told that the genuine marine oils have more anti-foaming agents since the engines tend to spend a great deal of time at higher RPMs . . . 3,000 to 4,600 is typical on my inboard/outboard Merc 4.3. I have no idea if this is really true, but it worked on me and I've stuck with Quicksilver oils. They are priced cheaper at Academy than at the local boat dealer. I use a standard automotive oil filter (Purolator), however.
For the next season I may try a decent non-marine oil and keep an eye on the oil pressure. If it stays normal then I assume that would mean no foaming.
I have the same 4.3L engine and I use Rotella, Caterpillar, or Delo HDEO's in 15w40 and they all hold the same oil pressure I had with Mercruiser's 25W-40 synthetic marine oil. Engine runs just as smooth and quiet with the HDEO's as with the Merc oil too, even for extended WOT runs at 4600-4800 rpm.
I don't have a problem with using Merc's oil, but it's very hard to find around here & the HDEO's can be had anywhere.
Last OCI I used a Napa Gold filter, but I found that my local Wal Mart sells Quicksilver filters for about the same $$ so I'll use the Quicksilver next time.
Well, synthetic is not the most important factor. Look for HD oil and high viscosity and no VII. The boats engine has a different environment compared to a car.
- It is constantly uphill at near WOT. This causes temperature issues, i.e. viscosity reqs.
- You may suffer from fuel dilution i.e. viscosity and add pack reqs.
- You don't generally drive everyday and the engine is is a can in the sea. This can cause issues with moisture/salt/corrosion i.e add pack reqs.
- Generally you dont use the boat at sub zero. So no need for lighter oils.
This doesn't require EXPENSIVE oils, it requires the right oils. I think the idea of HDEO oil or the marine oils is correct. My Volvo v8 requires 20w50 mineral oil at API SG or better. That's not an expensive oil.
Merc sells a good 25w40 oil that will also work. In some markets stratight 30 synth is also a choice.
Here, the Volvo mineral original oil is among the cheapest! The full synth is also cheap but I use the Vovlo Penta dino.
Just don't pour in Mobil1 0w30 just because it is API SM. That's just not what to look for.
- It is constantly uphill at near WOT. This causes temperature issues, i.e. viscosity reqs.
- You may suffer from fuel dilution i.e. viscosity and add pack reqs.
- You don't generally drive everyday and the engine is is a can in the sea. This can cause issues with moisture/salt/corrosion i.e add pack reqs.
- Generally you dont use the boat at sub zero. So no need for lighter oils.
This doesn't require EXPENSIVE oils, it requires the right oils. I think the idea of HDEO oil or the marine oils is correct. My Volvo v8 requires 20w50 mineral oil at API SG or better. That's not an expensive oil.
Merc sells a good 25w40 oil that will also work. In some markets stratight 30 synth is also a choice.
Here, the Volvo mineral original oil is among the cheapest! The full synth is also cheap but I use the Vovlo Penta dino.
Just don't pour in Mobil1 0w30 just because it is API SM. That's just not what to look for.
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Originally Posted By: MGregoir
How often do you use the boat? If you are going to hour out this oil with the boat in use I don't think using automotive products would be as big of concern as if you were storing the boat, in that case I would use an HDEO or a marine oil.
The Rotella is closer to a marine oil than the M1, is heavier, more detergent and has corrosion inhibitors. The M1 has agents in it to swell seals.
As far as gear oil for the lower unit I would be more worried about using a marine oil in that than the engine for sure, as it gets changed less often and sees more abuse.
I spoke with a Chevron Lube Tech one day and he told me that ALL oils have esters in them to help prevent seal shrinkage. It's not just a Mobil One issue. If anyone knows otherwise, I'd like to learn about it.
How often do you use the boat? If you are going to hour out this oil with the boat in use I don't think using automotive products would be as big of concern as if you were storing the boat, in that case I would use an HDEO or a marine oil.
The Rotella is closer to a marine oil than the M1, is heavier, more detergent and has corrosion inhibitors. The M1 has agents in it to swell seals.
As far as gear oil for the lower unit I would be more worried about using a marine oil in that than the engine for sure, as it gets changed less often and sees more abuse.
I spoke with a Chevron Lube Tech one day and he told me that ALL oils have esters in them to help prevent seal shrinkage. It's not just a Mobil One issue. If anyone knows otherwise, I'd like to learn about it.
The ONLY M1 we've ever seen used on the water was the older formula 15W-50, and it performed VERY well. We used it ourselves a couple seasons. Pressure was always good, and I honestly think we saved a little fuel. I don't know how the present EP version would hold up in marine service and shy away from it.
But for everyday, mainstream gasoline marine engine duty, the big brand HDEOs, either in 15w40 or in straight weight 30 or 40, do just as well as the expensive marine oils. The VII argument of the marine vendors has become somewhat of a myth. This isn't 1976.
I'm partial to Rotella, but Delo is also fine.
With the price of gas, take what you save running an HDEO, and spend it on fuel stabilizer. I'm certainly not running big hours this season.
Regular changes are more important than the oil. I knew a guy who ran Pennzoil 10w-30 dino in his 4.3s for thirteen seasons, with religiously moderate change intervals, and the engines were absolutely perfect. Must've been the "Z-7".
But for everyday, mainstream gasoline marine engine duty, the big brand HDEOs, either in 15w40 or in straight weight 30 or 40, do just as well as the expensive marine oils. The VII argument of the marine vendors has become somewhat of a myth. This isn't 1976.
I'm partial to Rotella, but Delo is also fine.
With the price of gas, take what you save running an HDEO, and spend it on fuel stabilizer. I'm certainly not running big hours this season.
Regular changes are more important than the oil. I knew a guy who ran Pennzoil 10w-30 dino in his 4.3s for thirteen seasons, with religiously moderate change intervals, and the engines were absolutely perfect. Must've been the "Z-7".
Not many car engines are designed to be run at 3/4 to full throttle for almost their entire lifespan. Any good synthetic is just as good or better then the Merc synthetic oil.
What is the model number of that outboard with the $400 distributor cap? I'm talking about the tag number on the swivel bracket.
What is the model number of that outboard with the $400 distributor cap? I'm talking about the tag number on the swivel bracket.
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