just avoid 73-87 gm trucks-you will be fine
WTB - Classic Truck - Need Tips
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
When you said "Old" my mind jumped to the 60s, not the 80s ;-)
Of the 80s trucks, I'd have to say watch out for corrosion in the GM products- very prone to it in the beds above the wheel-wells. And of course they have the "side-saddle" gas tanks outside the frame rail- for any truck I'd drive daily I'd consider re-locating a side-saddle tank, and DEFINITELY re-locate any truck older than that (I think they were all gone by the 80s) with an in-cab tank behind the seat. Chevy's shortcomings are pretty heavily offset by easy parts availability, though.
Dodges from the 80s were a little less corrosion-prone than they were in the 70s but still not up to modern standards. Solid, if underpowered drivelines (only smallblocks- 318/360- after '78). But the front suspension wasn't as beefy as either Ford or Chevy until the '94 redesign. There's a reason Dodge wasn't a major player in the truck market from the early 70s to the early 90s. Being a Dodge guy, I'd actually go for one of the square-body solid-axle older (60s) trucks and have a field day modifying it to my tastes.
In the 80s, I'd probably pick a Ford for overall longevity. Like Dodge they were a little underpowered compared to previous and later years, but they don't seem to have the rot problems of either Dodge or GM. Twin "I" Beam is a love-hate thing... indestructible, but drives like a drunk mule on its best days. Sentimentality, but I have fond memories of working summers on a farm driving an early-70s "5/8ths" Ford (the first of the F-150s instead of F-100's) with a 300 six and 3-on-the-tree. ;-)
I always thought the fuel tank behind the seat was a safe, protected place to put it. If it gets busted open there, you have bigger problems than a fuel spill/possible fire.
When you said "Old" my mind jumped to the 60s, not the 80s ;-)
Of the 80s trucks, I'd have to say watch out for corrosion in the GM products- very prone to it in the beds above the wheel-wells. And of course they have the "side-saddle" gas tanks outside the frame rail- for any truck I'd drive daily I'd consider re-locating a side-saddle tank, and DEFINITELY re-locate any truck older than that (I think they were all gone by the 80s) with an in-cab tank behind the seat. Chevy's shortcomings are pretty heavily offset by easy parts availability, though.
Dodges from the 80s were a little less corrosion-prone than they were in the 70s but still not up to modern standards. Solid, if underpowered drivelines (only smallblocks- 318/360- after '78). But the front suspension wasn't as beefy as either Ford or Chevy until the '94 redesign. There's a reason Dodge wasn't a major player in the truck market from the early 70s to the early 90s. Being a Dodge guy, I'd actually go for one of the square-body solid-axle older (60s) trucks and have a field day modifying it to my tastes.
In the 80s, I'd probably pick a Ford for overall longevity. Like Dodge they were a little underpowered compared to previous and later years, but they don't seem to have the rot problems of either Dodge or GM. Twin "I" Beam is a love-hate thing... indestructible, but drives like a drunk mule on its best days. Sentimentality, but I have fond memories of working summers on a farm driving an early-70s "5/8ths" Ford (the first of the F-150s instead of F-100's) with a 300 six and 3-on-the-tree. ;-)
I always thought the fuel tank behind the seat was a safe, protected place to put it. If it gets busted open there, you have bigger problems than a fuel spill/possible fire.
In small towns in Florida, it isn't hard to find a classic truck for sale with minimal rust and years of good maintenance.
However, here in Florida we haven't had smog tests for over 10 years. Many of those older trucks have their smog devices removed, so be ready to do some repairs if you live where smog checks are mandatory.
Of course if you can find a truck that is nice, but is a 1971 or earlier, you don't have to worry about a thing.
Do you like the 1973-1987 Chevy fullsize? There is a bonus if you get a 1987. It has EFI, whereas the 1981-1986 trucks had a complex carb and it had computerized spark timing. I think California trucks had all that stuff a year or two earlier.
However, here in Florida we haven't had smog tests for over 10 years. Many of those older trucks have their smog devices removed, so be ready to do some repairs if you live where smog checks are mandatory.
Of course if you can find a truck that is nice, but is a 1971 or earlier, you don't have to worry about a thing.
Do you like the 1973-1987 Chevy fullsize? There is a bonus if you get a 1987. It has EFI, whereas the 1981-1986 trucks had a complex carb and it had computerized spark timing. I think California trucks had all that stuff a year or two earlier.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
In small towns in Florida, it isn't hard to find a classic truck for sale with minimal rust and years of good maintenance.
However, here in Florida we haven't had smog tests for over 10 years. Many of those older trucks have their smog devices removed, so be ready to do some repairs if you live where smog checks are mandatory.
Of course if you can find a truck that is nice, but is a 1971 or earlier, you don't have to worry about a thing.
Do you like the 1973-1987 Chevy fullsize? There is a bonus if you get a 1987. It has EFI, whereas the 1981-1986 trucks had a complex carb and it had computerized spark timing. I think California trucks had all that stuff a year or two earlier.
Yes, the TBI in 1987 was a huge improvement and a more simple setup. It's definitely the preferred stock form of fuel delivery on these trucks. You can get TBI "tune up kits" at parts stores for $50-$70, less online.
Ultimately, rust needs to be the biggest concern, followed by general condition, then last worry about the factory options. With older trucks, I'd buy a rust free example with the worst engine/fuel system before I'd buy one with highly desirable factory options that is eaten up by rust and rot. You can always build a rust free truck into what you want it to be, but a rusted out one is likely to be a lost cause.
Personally, I like older Fords and I like EFI, so old Ford EFI trucks is what I go for. Multiport EFI was first available on the 1985 5.0 F-150 and 1985 2.3 Ranger, and then gradually offered on other engines. Some people are the opposite, so don't get to hung up on Ford vs. Chevy or any of that. Buy the least rusty truck that you personally like or are comfortable with. If tearing into carbs is not something you are familiar with, I would probably go for multiport injection or TBI, as either one will be less finicky than a carb.
In small towns in Florida, it isn't hard to find a classic truck for sale with minimal rust and years of good maintenance.
However, here in Florida we haven't had smog tests for over 10 years. Many of those older trucks have their smog devices removed, so be ready to do some repairs if you live where smog checks are mandatory.
Of course if you can find a truck that is nice, but is a 1971 or earlier, you don't have to worry about a thing.
Do you like the 1973-1987 Chevy fullsize? There is a bonus if you get a 1987. It has EFI, whereas the 1981-1986 trucks had a complex carb and it had computerized spark timing. I think California trucks had all that stuff a year or two earlier.
Yes, the TBI in 1987 was a huge improvement and a more simple setup. It's definitely the preferred stock form of fuel delivery on these trucks. You can get TBI "tune up kits" at parts stores for $50-$70, less online.
Ultimately, rust needs to be the biggest concern, followed by general condition, then last worry about the factory options. With older trucks, I'd buy a rust free example with the worst engine/fuel system before I'd buy one with highly desirable factory options that is eaten up by rust and rot. You can always build a rust free truck into what you want it to be, but a rusted out one is likely to be a lost cause.
Personally, I like older Fords and I like EFI, so old Ford EFI trucks is what I go for. Multiport EFI was first available on the 1985 5.0 F-150 and 1985 2.3 Ranger, and then gradually offered on other engines. Some people are the opposite, so don't get to hung up on Ford vs. Chevy or any of that. Buy the least rusty truck that you personally like or are comfortable with. If tearing into carbs is not something you are familiar with, I would probably go for multiport injection or TBI, as either one will be less finicky than a carb.
I gotta chime in... classifieds and craigslist can be the worst place to look. If you find it, everybody else will too... friends, and just driving around looking can get you a lot more for the money... back roads great place to start... check any place people post stuff for sale... grocery stores etc... truck driver for work asked me about a old truck driving around town... I researched it... piece of junk... one day saw a truck in a garage with a cover... asked owner... 65 Chevy... restored... been sitting in front of me for 7 years... one day the garage was open.... guy bought it for 5500$.... just gotta look...
Be different. Get a Jeep fullsize pickup.
Originally Posted By: jdirtrider
Also, whats the best way to find/buy a truck like this? Searching nationwide so craigslist might be tough?
http://www.searchtempest.com
You can search all of eBay and craigslist in one search. Let us know what you find.
Also, whats the best way to find/buy a truck like this? Searching nationwide so craigslist might be tough?
http://www.searchtempest.com
You can search all of eBay and craigslist in one search. Let us know what you find.
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