Switched to what from what m2200b?
I'm not quite so concerned with a cost/benefit analysis. Just which is better.
I'm not quite so concerned with a cost/benefit analysis. Just which is better.
Would I benefit from...
- Thread starter RVM
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I switched from M1 to Chevron. I looked at tests in used oils for the GM 3.8, 3.1 I service and decided no difference. I looked like you will, no doubt, and most of the Tacoma tests are using M1 and the owners were happy too. Most of the dino tests for Toyota V6s look ok too but most of the dino users for the truck had older trucks. Try the search function, it really works great. On my Mazda B2200 M1 was an easy choice to drop; I consumed more of it than Chevron or GTX.
Gentlemen
I will find out about the XL lineup from Amsoil and disprove or confirm the "XL was predominately group-3" idea.
Triple_Se7en are you sure that is a good Idea mixing LC with the ASL.
RVM & Truck&Cycle Toyota CAN NOT void your warranty based on oil and filter. As long as you have UOA's to backup your maintenance. 5k oci's are Recommendations nothing more. My recent exchange with chrysler
As Reported in Road King Magazine Nov/Dec 2004 or Road King Website
(Access to it online is no longer possible)
Keep copies of your oil analysis reports. One owner-operator had a warranty claim denied because he went 58,000 miles without an oil change (using synthetic oil and a wrapped-media by-pass filter) when a con-rod bushing broke. He brought out a stack of analysis reports and asked, "Which of these shows that I should have changed oil?" His warranty was honored.
RVM I'm the same way as you and JohnnyO when it comes to my rides.
I will find out about the XL lineup from Amsoil and disprove or confirm the "XL was predominately group-3" idea.
Triple_Se7en are you sure that is a good Idea mixing LC with the ASL.
RVM & Truck&Cycle Toyota CAN NOT void your warranty based on oil and filter. As long as you have UOA's to backup your maintenance. 5k oci's are Recommendations nothing more. My recent exchange with chrysler
As Reported in Road King Magazine Nov/Dec 2004 or Road King Website
(Access to it online is no longer possible)
Keep copies of your oil analysis reports. One owner-operator had a warranty claim denied because he went 58,000 miles without an oil change (using synthetic oil and a wrapped-media by-pass filter) when a con-rod bushing broke. He brought out a stack of analysis reports and asked, "Which of these shows that I should have changed oil?" His warranty was honored.
RVM I'm the same way as you and JohnnyO when it comes to my rides.
RVM:
"Hmm... so what I'm gathering from this thread and from reading lots of other threads is that synthetic provides no lubrication or protection benefit over dino oils unless you are looking for longer OCIs. Therefore, the only advantage to using a synthetic is a longer OCI?"
There are some exceptions, and certainly good synthetics have superior properties to good dinos. Better flow when cold, better resistance to heat, less shearing, and the list goes on. Unless you are doing something out of the ordinary with your engine, though, it just doesn't seem to matter: the actual wear is every bit as good with dinos. I find Havoline and M1 to be equivalent and excellent when looking at UOAs in a wide variety of instances, although noise and consumption are often seen to be higher with M1.
But again, if you see extreme heat in your engine, or extreme cold starts, or extreme revs or if the engine is highly modified, synth would seem justified. Also if you need to run synth because of particular manufacturer specs.
I'm going to try Redline in my wife's car next change, and a long OCI. That way I just won't have to worry about it for a long time, and with a good discount Redline's beefy add pack and keep-it-clean ester base is worth the premium over increasingly pricey M1. My car, which I want to keep running "forever," is going to get a Hav/Delo mix.
MHO.
- Glenn
"Hmm... so what I'm gathering from this thread and from reading lots of other threads is that synthetic provides no lubrication or protection benefit over dino oils unless you are looking for longer OCIs. Therefore, the only advantage to using a synthetic is a longer OCI?"
There are some exceptions, and certainly good synthetics have superior properties to good dinos. Better flow when cold, better resistance to heat, less shearing, and the list goes on. Unless you are doing something out of the ordinary with your engine, though, it just doesn't seem to matter: the actual wear is every bit as good with dinos. I find Havoline and M1 to be equivalent and excellent when looking at UOAs in a wide variety of instances, although noise and consumption are often seen to be higher with M1.
But again, if you see extreme heat in your engine, or extreme cold starts, or extreme revs or if the engine is highly modified, synth would seem justified. Also if you need to run synth because of particular manufacturer specs.
I'm going to try Redline in my wife's car next change, and a long OCI. That way I just won't have to worry about it for a long time, and with a good discount Redline's beefy add pack and keep-it-clean ester base is worth the premium over increasingly pricey M1. My car, which I want to keep running "forever," is going to get a Hav/Delo mix.
MHO.
- Glenn
RVM Welcome,
Your now sucked into oil spell. Ive been running amsoil and redline for the most of my tacoma V6 3.4Ls life with 5K oil change intervals because of warrenty issues. Running a good moble SS will do just as good as the above oils or even better if you look up uoas on moble one oil. I plan on using moble one with an over sized filter and change it every six months.
Your now sucked into oil spell. Ive been running amsoil and redline for the most of my tacoma V6 3.4Ls life with 5K oil change intervals because of warrenty issues. Running a good moble SS will do just as good as the above oils or even better if you look up uoas on moble one oil. I plan on using moble one with an over sized filter and change it every six months.
Hmm, I seem to have come upon a topic that is not quite so simple as I may have thought. Though, I should have deduced that from the other threads I have been reading.
How important are having UOAs done and about how much does it cost?
I'm taking my truck in Monday for an oil change - my first one is free. I've got about 720 miles so I'll just stick with dino to 5k and at that point I will decide what to do. M1 has always served me well, but I've been reading A LOT of good things about conventional Havoline.
What is so great about a high moly count anyway?
How important are having UOAs done and about how much does it cost?
I'm taking my truck in Monday for an oil change - my first one is free. I've got about 720 miles so I'll just stick with dino to 5k and at that point I will decide what to do. M1 has always served me well, but I've been reading A LOT of good things about conventional Havoline.
What is so great about a high moly count anyway?
gary: i pmed pablo about the xl line a week or so ago cause i was curious. he said it used to ge a group iv now it is a group iii. still a good oil.
Gentlemen and Ladies
I told you I would confirm the "XL was predominately group-3" idea and I have.
This is for you and don't get upset I was just concerned is all.
Your Tacoma calls for Amsoil Oil Filter EaO57/SDF57
The Oversize match for that would be EaO15/SDF15
Here's the numbers
THREAD 3/4 x 16 | O.D. 2.920 | HEIGHT 3.496 | I.D.GSKT 2.480 | O.D.GSKT 2.810 | BY-PASS 7-9 PSID | SDF57
THREAD 3/4 x 16 | O.D. 3.720 | HEIGHT 5.276 | I.D.GSKT 2.460 | O.D.GSKT 2.810 | BY-PASS 7-9 PSID | SDF15
[ December 20, 2005, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: Gary Mintz ]
I told you I would confirm the "XL was predominately group-3" idea and I have.
Triple_Se7en
This is for you and don't get upset I was just concerned is all.
TRDUSA2002
Your Tacoma calls for Amsoil Oil Filter EaO57/SDF57
The Oversize match for that would be EaO15/SDF15
Here's the numbers
THREAD 3/4 x 16 | O.D. 2.920 | HEIGHT 3.496 | I.D.GSKT 2.480 | O.D.GSKT 2.810 | BY-PASS 7-9 PSID | SDF57
THREAD 3/4 x 16 | O.D. 3.720 | HEIGHT 5.276 | I.D.GSKT 2.460 | O.D.GSKT 2.810 | BY-PASS 7-9 PSID | SDF15
[ December 20, 2005, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: Gary Mintz ]
Following up Truck&Cycle's heads-up concerning warranty, it's a good idea to keep all the receipts for oil and filters in a safe place, as well as a log of the miles at which you did the oil change, or write the miles on the receipt.
If a dealer/manufacturer is looking to void a warranty based on lack of oil changes (and I can see where it would be appropriate in some instances), they might not be of a mind to take your word for it.
If a dealer/manufacturer is looking to void a warranty based on lack of oil changes (and I can see where it would be appropriate in some instances), they might not be of a mind to take your word for it.
Would a PureOne oil filter be alright for my truck? I've read it's the best filter on the market.
Yes you would benifit greatly in the long run. If you tend to keep a vechile past 5 years then synthetic lubes can have a huge impact. If you operate in cold or harsh environments synthetics can make a huge difference. If you abuse thye vechile a synthetic will hold up better. If you decide to push out the OCI synthetic's also shine. Most true synthetics tend to have better additive packages then their conventional counter parts wich plays as ig of a role as the base stock does in preventing wear. The main advantage to a synthetic is not wear reduction in my eyes but a reduction in carbon deposits, varnish and reduced consuption.
Most longterm damage is caused by deposits. If you use an oil that leave very little residue behind then it will increase the life of the engine all other factors being equal.
I would consider makeing a blend. A 50/50 blend of Mobil-1 and Mobil 5000 would easily get you a lot of the benifits of a 100% synthetic but with reduced cost.Mobil 7500 is mostly GIII wich is what most so called synthetics are made from.
If you are going to buy off the shelf stick with Mobil-1 as it is the only 100% PAO on the stores shelfs in America!
Most longterm damage is caused by deposits. If you use an oil that leave very little residue behind then it will increase the life of the engine all other factors being equal.
I would consider makeing a blend. A 50/50 blend of Mobil-1 and Mobil 5000 would easily get you a lot of the benifits of a 100% synthetic but with reduced cost.Mobil 7500 is mostly GIII wich is what most so called synthetics are made from.
If you are going to buy off the shelf stick with Mobil-1 as it is the only 100% PAO on the stores shelfs in America!
I believe the only actual benefit of synthetic, if you plan on changing your oil every 5K, is in dealing with harsh enviorments, If your driving in extreme cold/extremely hot enviorments or Towing alot. It tends to be more shear stable, has a lower pour point, will not coke/sludge as readily as dino oil.
I'll probably switch to M1 at 5000 miles and continue with a 5k OCI until the warranty is up. Then, I may just stick with the 5k OCI. ^^
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