window won't go up

[berge]

92 legend. passenger front window went down then, later, refused to go back up. from drivers master switch panel and from the passenger doors switch panel there is no response. when I press to go down, I can hear the motor pulling current but there is absolutely nothing when trying to go up.
I put direct power to the motor and it went up no problem. used the switch to pull it back down, direct power and it went up again.
so, I'm assuming it's not the motor and I doubt that both the drivers master window switch and the passenger window switch broke on the down function at the exact same time.
what do I check next?
thanks.

 

[GoldenRod]

Power window relay?

 

[brianl703]

The way the switches are wired, one bad switch can cause both to malfunction.

 

[Matt_S]

I agree with brian. I'd suspect the switch first, most probably the driver's side since that's the one that typically takes the most wear and tear. If there is a relay, you can just try swapping it with a similar relay, but I don't think most cars use relays for power windows.

 

[Dark Jedi]

well it shouldnt but my 03 dakota. I had the same prob and both driver master switch and pass switch both went bad. if you can use the driver side window switch and place hook it up to the pass switch wires. see if it works then. if it does. then its the switches.

 

[Schmoe]

With a '92 model, you may be in for a bit of searching. Just how it is with these older cars. I had my hands full with my '90 Cutlass.

 

[berge]

a broken drivers side master window switch panel can stop the passenger window switch from working properly on the passenger window?

 

[GoldenRod]

quote:

---

Originally posted by brianl703:
The way the switches are wired, one bad switch can cause both to malfunction.

---

Wired in series?

 

[brianl703]

Yes, they are (the master and slave switches are).

Yes, a broken driver's side master switch can cause the the passenger window switch to stop working properly.

The way the master switch works is that it reverses the polarity of the voltage on it's two output wires that go to the slave switch.

The master switch on the diagram I'm looking at has three input wires--two power (one for up, one for down) and one ground. If one of the power wires is dead or not making contact it could cause the problem you're seeing. With the switch at rest it passes the two power wires straight through, but if the switch is damaged it may only pass one through.

The slave switch also have three inputs--the two power wires from the master switch and ground.

The slave switch also reverses the polarity on it's two output wires which connect to the motor. Again, if one of the input wires doesn't have 12V on it, it won't go in that direction.

SO...I'd check the slave switch for the presence of 12V on both input wires. If good, then the slave switch is the problem.

If not, check the master switch for the presence of 12V on both output wires. If good, then the wiring between the master and slave switch is the problem.

If not, then check the inputs to the master switch for 12V. If good, then the master switch is the problem.

If not, then the problem is upstream from the switches.

It's not a bad ground--if it were, the window wouldn't work in either direction.

 

[berge]

I'll check the master switch first, then the passenger door switch, and report back.
thanks.

 

[berge]

used master switch from wreckers solved the problem.

thanks everyone.

 

[obbop]

All cars run on used parts!!!!!

Thus sayeth the bumper sticker the used auto parts firm placed upon the grease-stained counter for the general public to grab and slather upon their conveyance.

Never saw one on any car, never say anyone take one and the pile never seemed to get any smaller.

 

[cousincletus]

I agree with the junkyard. www.car-part.com. You can save big $$$ by shopping there.

 

[flatlandtacoma]

LOL. The electric passenger window in my Tacoma wouldn't roll up the other night, 5 min after I rolled it partially down. It was raining and the windows were fogging a little. Picked up my wife and daughter from a movie and drove all the way home with the window open in the rain. It was warm out and only drizzling and the road noise drowned out much of the complaining.

Got home and look through the fuse boxes for anything labled power windows. No dice. Got out the Hayne's manual. It tells you to check the window lockout switch before troubleshooting a window problem. (I know what that switch does! It would only lock out the passenger switch, not the driver switch! How stupid do they think we are?

) Wouldn't that be funny if somebody thought their window was malfunctioning and it was just locked out!

Proceeded to tear passenger door completely apart and checked out the switch and motor. Switch was fine. Applied +12 volts directly across motor leads. Window rolls down and up just fine. I roll it up and scratch my head. It's after midnight now.

It must be the driver's switch. I had learned from the passenger door panel that I didn't really have to take the whole door apart to get to the switch so it didn't take as long to unplug this one. I look at the back of this integrated master control switch with 10 tiny terminals and think I bet this switch costs more than the PW motor. I flip it back over looking for any broken tabs or anything obviously wrong when I notice the window lockout switch which was depressed..............