Will this motor require 1 or 2 Auto-Rx treatments?
- Thread starter OCB
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I'm thinking a stratigicly placed rocket...or a flame thrower if that were handy
That poor engine is gone...
That poor engine is gone...
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You may go for the bulk delivery offer for fleets
j/k.
Hey, you're in for at least two treatments. I'd change your filters every 500 miles (dump the oil back in if it's not pudding).
Since you've got a camera ..and you already have the "before" shot...how bow keeping an image log between treatments??
Hey, you're in for at least two treatments. I'd change your filters every 500 miles (dump the oil back in if it's not pudding).
Since you've got a camera ..and you already have the "before" shot...how bow keeping an image log between treatments??
API-SA
Using grease for oil is not a good idea in any engine. I suggest kerosene and steel wool.
That looks like tar. Like somebody tried to pave a road inside that engine...a shame.
Holy oil derrick Batman!
What car/engine? Are you going to do Auto-Rx?
What car/engine? Are you going to do Auto-Rx?
Particulars please. Oil and OCI at least.
Uhhh, Frank doesn't have a product for motors yet, only engines.
Please feel free to start slamming me at at point
Please feel free to start slamming me at at point
JHZR2
Staff member
geez.
My GF's 94 integra's engine is set up and looks mechanically almost identical. It has 165k on it and historically has had 1 year changes, thnat typically was at an OCI of 5-10k, per the manual; a lot of it on short trips to the supermarket, the store, etc. (Ive done them in smaller OCIs since Ive known her and have been maintaining her car, to add some 'just in case' cleaning). All on dino until this last oil change, when I switched her to M1.
I pulled the valve cover to replace a seal that wa starting to look a little leaky. I figured that changing to syn would bring out the worst in any leak that might be there.
I was AMAZED to see how clean the whole thing was. I thought I might see some sludge, but to my suprise, there was barely any yellowing on the metal surfaces, as one would expect from use of dino oil for many years and miles. Looked REALLY clean and no signs of there ever being any sludge or even any oil breakdown at all. UOA on that last batch of dino proves it too.
IMO, some engines, like the toyota V6, Chrysler 2.7, etc., etc. may be sludge prone. But, I think more and more that the health of the engine has more to do with how the driver uses it... not necessarily even how they maintain it, but simply how they use it, like driving hard, lots of downshifts, periods above 3500 rpm, etc., indicate how an engine will sludge up or show other problems of any sort.
My GF drives very gently, trying to maximize MPG. She never goes above 75, never really cruises above 71. Cruise control is typically used. Im convinced this is why her engine (which looks almost identical to this one in design and layout) looked and runs like brand new.
Sure, even highway use is easy... but if you need 60 hp at 60 MPh, 85 HP at 75 MPH, and 110 hp at 90 MPH, which one will have the most effect on the oil? well, if an engine is say, 30% efficient, a LOT of the rest of that heat is being taken away by the oil... and up goes oil temp, and on comes the sludge. Doesnt matter what the engine is. Drive it harder, you need more power, and the waste heat needs to go somewhere... not to mention the added stress on other components.
This person probably didnt do their PM that well, but they probably also beat on the car hard, and then wondered why the thing wasnt running right. Maybe they didnt do an oil change for 30k... I dont know, but I do know that enven cheap oils do great these days, and Id have to guess that something else was significant in the overall equation.
JMH
[ May 31, 2005, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: JHZR2 ]
My GF's 94 integra's engine is set up and looks mechanically almost identical. It has 165k on it and historically has had 1 year changes, thnat typically was at an OCI of 5-10k, per the manual; a lot of it on short trips to the supermarket, the store, etc. (Ive done them in smaller OCIs since Ive known her and have been maintaining her car, to add some 'just in case' cleaning). All on dino until this last oil change, when I switched her to M1.
I pulled the valve cover to replace a seal that wa starting to look a little leaky. I figured that changing to syn would bring out the worst in any leak that might be there.
I was AMAZED to see how clean the whole thing was. I thought I might see some sludge, but to my suprise, there was barely any yellowing on the metal surfaces, as one would expect from use of dino oil for many years and miles. Looked REALLY clean and no signs of there ever being any sludge or even any oil breakdown at all. UOA on that last batch of dino proves it too.
IMO, some engines, like the toyota V6, Chrysler 2.7, etc., etc. may be sludge prone. But, I think more and more that the health of the engine has more to do with how the driver uses it... not necessarily even how they maintain it, but simply how they use it, like driving hard, lots of downshifts, periods above 3500 rpm, etc., indicate how an engine will sludge up or show other problems of any sort.
My GF drives very gently, trying to maximize MPG. She never goes above 75, never really cruises above 71. Cruise control is typically used. Im convinced this is why her engine (which looks almost identical to this one in design and layout) looked and runs like brand new.
Sure, even highway use is easy... but if you need 60 hp at 60 MPh, 85 HP at 75 MPH, and 110 hp at 90 MPH, which one will have the most effect on the oil? well, if an engine is say, 30% efficient, a LOT of the rest of that heat is being taken away by the oil... and up goes oil temp, and on comes the sludge. Doesnt matter what the engine is. Drive it harder, you need more power, and the waste heat needs to go somewhere... not to mention the added stress on other components.
This person probably didnt do their PM that well, but they probably also beat on the car hard, and then wondered why the thing wasnt running right. Maybe they didnt do an oil change for 30k... I dont know, but I do know that enven cheap oils do great these days, and Id have to guess that something else was significant in the overall equation.
JMH
[ May 31, 2005, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: JHZR2 ]
triple dittos! Looks like the front side of my old 99 3.0L Sienna...
Can ARX even dissove thick crud like that?
JHZR2
Staff member
Im sure it can,. but it will likely be a slow and expensive process.
Id have to guess that for something like that, a general hand-cleaning, followed by at least two solvent type flushes (can only be done knowing full well that the pan will need to be dropped, oil pickups cleaned out, etc., etc.) then going to maybe an LC and HDEO flush, then two rx intervals to get the gunk out of the small areas easily and safely.
JMH
Id have to guess that for something like that, a general hand-cleaning, followed by at least two solvent type flushes (can only be done knowing full well that the pan will need to be dropped, oil pickups cleaned out, etc., etc.) then going to maybe an LC and HDEO flush, then two rx intervals to get the gunk out of the small areas easily and safely.
JMH
I'm 99% sure that the car in the first picture is a 94-97 Honda Accord 4-cylinder. I have an identical car, but mine only has varnish stains where that one almost has asphalt!
What kind of oil?...non-detergent API SA?
Ken
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