I don't suppose this is as much of an issue on modern bikes but before 1980 it was uncommon to have the brake light actuated by both the front brake and the rear brake. I don't recall front brakes having a brake light switch back in the 60's and 70's although my 79 BMW does. Applying both ensures the brake light gets illuminated.
Why do people use the rear brake?
- Thread starter KrisZ
- Start date
On the street I employ both the CMC fronts and the CMC rear In an effort to
squat the weight transfer whereas on the track I only concentrate on
the CMC fronts... CMC are super light weight Ceramic Matrix Composite disc...
Braking Technique
For a quick stop, apply both brakes simultaneously, squeezing the
front lever progressively harder over one second and easing up on the
rear pedal to prevent a rear-wheel skid. As forward energy dissipates
toward the end of the stop, ease up on the front brake slightly to
prevent sliding the front tire.
It's a good idea to squeeze the clutch as you brake, to remove engine
braking from the equation. Squeezing the dutch allows you to
concentrate on modulating the brakes. To make the shortest possible
stop, you need to modulate both brakes to the point where the tires
just begin to lose traction. Maximum tire traction occurs at about 15
percent slip.
Toward the end of the stop, it's good practice to snick the
transmission into first gear, then support the machine with your left
foot as the bike comes to a complete stop. Your right foot should
still be applying the rear brake. Make a habit of glancing in your
rear view mirror as you stop, checking for drivers dosing on you from
behind 'as would happen in traffic. The only way to get good at
braking is to practice in a 'controlled' environment. Use these tips
as a starting point.
Practice Makes Perfect
You can't expect to be skillful at braking just by reading about it.
You need to practice. I suggest finding a quiet area away from traffic
and making a series of quick stops, preferably at the start of your
riding season. Perhaps you can borrow a vacant portion of a parking
lot early on a Sunday morning. If it's your first attempt at
practicing quick stops, spend two or three hours honing your braking
skills.
Layout a straight 'braking chute' about 100 feet long, with lots of
run-out room at the end. You can mark the chute with small cones or
tennis balls cut in half, with double markers for the point where you
start to brake. Be cautious at first, making your first run at no
faster than 18 mph. If you slide the rear tire at that speed, you need
to correct that problem before bumping your speed up.
Regardless of your experience level or the braking system on your
bike, you might be surprised at what you can learn from quick stop
practice. There is a big difference between slowing from 70 mph to 40,
and making a quick stop from 40 mph to O.
Do us both a favor and wear your best abrasion-resistant riding
gear-just in case you make a little boo-boo. I've seen more than a few
experienced riders who crashed while attempting a quick stop-typically
a result of an inflated image of their braking skills. Even if you
think you're very good at braking, I advise you to start slowly and
gradually work up to higher approach speeds as you demonstrate to
yourself that you have the techniques down. And if the mere thought of
practicing quick stops makes you break out in a cold sweat, I suggest
signing up for a training course where you can build skill under the
watchful eye of an instructor.
Rear Wheel Slides
Be ware that as you approach speeds increase, forward energy increases
and rear wheel traction decreases. If you skid the rare tire into a
slide out and then panic and release the pedal, the bike is very
likely to snap back to center and throw you off the 'high side.' To
avoid a high-side crash, you need to know if you're sliding the rear
tire, and that's not easy to detect from the saddle. I advise you to
find a riding partner who can take turns observing stops, and watch
for a skidding rear tire.
Front Wheel Skids
Front wheel skids result from grabbing the lever too quickly or
holding a death grip on the lever even as the tire begins to slide. An
impending front tire skid causes steering to feel light and
unresponsive. If steering suddenly feels funny under aggressive
braking, you should ease up slightly on the lever. If the front tire
suddenly begins to slide, ease off the brake to restore balance, then
squeeze again-only more smoothly this time.
$2,500 fronts $800 rear CMCeramic Matrix Composite disc...
squat the weight transfer whereas on the track I only concentrate on
the CMC fronts... CMC are super light weight Ceramic Matrix Composite disc...
Braking Technique
For a quick stop, apply both brakes simultaneously, squeezing the
front lever progressively harder over one second and easing up on the
rear pedal to prevent a rear-wheel skid. As forward energy dissipates
toward the end of the stop, ease up on the front brake slightly to
prevent sliding the front tire.
It's a good idea to squeeze the clutch as you brake, to remove engine
braking from the equation. Squeezing the dutch allows you to
concentrate on modulating the brakes. To make the shortest possible
stop, you need to modulate both brakes to the point where the tires
just begin to lose traction. Maximum tire traction occurs at about 15
percent slip.
Toward the end of the stop, it's good practice to snick the
transmission into first gear, then support the machine with your left
foot as the bike comes to a complete stop. Your right foot should
still be applying the rear brake. Make a habit of glancing in your
rear view mirror as you stop, checking for drivers dosing on you from
behind 'as would happen in traffic. The only way to get good at
braking is to practice in a 'controlled' environment. Use these tips
as a starting point.
Practice Makes Perfect
You can't expect to be skillful at braking just by reading about it.
You need to practice. I suggest finding a quiet area away from traffic
and making a series of quick stops, preferably at the start of your
riding season. Perhaps you can borrow a vacant portion of a parking
lot early on a Sunday morning. If it's your first attempt at
practicing quick stops, spend two or three hours honing your braking
skills.
Layout a straight 'braking chute' about 100 feet long, with lots of
run-out room at the end. You can mark the chute with small cones or
tennis balls cut in half, with double markers for the point where you
start to brake. Be cautious at first, making your first run at no
faster than 18 mph. If you slide the rear tire at that speed, you need
to correct that problem before bumping your speed up.
Regardless of your experience level or the braking system on your
bike, you might be surprised at what you can learn from quick stop
practice. There is a big difference between slowing from 70 mph to 40,
and making a quick stop from 40 mph to O.
Do us both a favor and wear your best abrasion-resistant riding
gear-just in case you make a little boo-boo. I've seen more than a few
experienced riders who crashed while attempting a quick stop-typically
a result of an inflated image of their braking skills. Even if you
think you're very good at braking, I advise you to start slowly and
gradually work up to higher approach speeds as you demonstrate to
yourself that you have the techniques down. And if the mere thought of
practicing quick stops makes you break out in a cold sweat, I suggest
signing up for a training course where you can build skill under the
watchful eye of an instructor.
Rear Wheel Slides
Be ware that as you approach speeds increase, forward energy increases
and rear wheel traction decreases. If you skid the rare tire into a
slide out and then panic and release the pedal, the bike is very
likely to snap back to center and throw you off the 'high side.' To
avoid a high-side crash, you need to know if you're sliding the rear
tire, and that's not easy to detect from the saddle. I advise you to
find a riding partner who can take turns observing stops, and watch
for a skidding rear tire.
Front Wheel Skids
Front wheel skids result from grabbing the lever too quickly or
holding a death grip on the lever even as the tire begins to slide. An
impending front tire skid causes steering to feel light and
unresponsive. If steering suddenly feels funny under aggressive
braking, you should ease up slightly on the lever. If the front tire
suddenly begins to slide, ease off the brake to restore balance, then
squeeze again-only more smoothly this time.
$2,500 fronts $800 rear CMCeramic Matrix Composite disc...
Last edited:
Hit a stretch of sand, greasy road or scattered gravel while braking solo front without ABS.
Believe me when I say cantilever and sidepull road brakes exist that provide plenty of power to easily lock up the front brake. Perhaps not on entry level bikes, but the failure to perform is not a design limit.
I actually have a road bicycle with a dummy lever on the left (my right lever goes to the front brake, as it should). I don’t think I’ve ever worn out rear brake pads. I use the brake, lightly (unless it’s an emergency, which let’s face it, rarely happens).
I use rear brakes along with front brakes to get more braking power and stable braking. My bike is old so no ABS for me, crutial to avoid lock up. I had a front wheel lockup on greasy/wet tarmac, the bike went to the ground but because of low speed the damage was minor.
If your not sure of conditions you ideally start on the rear to test conditions then slide into the front once you know what to expect.
Locking the rear usually isn’t as bad unless you are the dumbass that only starts braking after the curve starts, around here the tighter curves conveniently have lots of red gravel scattered from the side into the road, so no carving on the inner lane.
Till the rear wheel leaves the ground.
Back in the good old days 1971 I bought a Kawasaki Mach III and in around 1973ish Suzuki was selling the Water Buffalo complete front fork assembly, wheels brake and Master cylinder . It bolted on the Mach III with very little work needed and it worked pretty good for the time. Any way a light two finger pull could skid the front end the learning curve was rapid I think I discovered stoppies and a couple of friends crashed the bike locking up the front end. I would be terrified to ride todays bike as I drove the Mach III as they also much more powerful and have better everything and as I matured my riding became more conservative. I haven't ridden a bike for 7 years and like Roy Rogers said " When I was younger and fell off of a horse. These days I would splat."On the street I employ both the CMC fronts and the CMC rear In an effort to
squat the weight transfer whereas on the track I only concentrate on
the CMC fronts... CMC are super light weight Ceramic Matrix Composite disc...
Braking Technique
For a quick stop, apply both brakes simultaneously, squeezing the
front lever progressively harder over one second and easing up on the
rear pedal to prevent a rear-wheel skid. As forward energy dissipates
toward the end of the stop, ease up on the front brake slightly to
prevent sliding the front tire.
It's a good idea to squeeze the clutch as you brake, to remove engine
braking from the equation. Squeezing the dutch allows you to
concentrate on modulating the brakes. To make the shortest possible
stop, you need to modulate both brakes to the point where the tires
just begin to lose traction. Maximum tire traction occurs at about 15
percent slip.
Toward the end of the stop, it's good practice to snick the
transmission into first gear, then support the machine with your left
foot as the bike comes to a complete stop. Your right foot should
still be applying the rear brake. Make a habit of glancing in your
rear view mirror as you stop, checking for drivers dosing on you from
behind 'as would happen in traffic. The only way to get good at
braking is to practice in a 'controlled' environment. Use these tips
as a starting point.
Practice Makes Perfect
You can't expect to be skillful at braking just by reading about it.
You need to practice. I suggest finding a quiet area away from traffic
and making a series of quick stops, preferably at the start of your
riding season. Perhaps you can borrow a vacant portion of a parking
lot early on a Sunday morning. If it's your first attempt at
practicing quick stops, spend two or three hours honing your braking
skills.
Layout a straight 'braking chute' about 100 feet long, with lots of
run-out room at the end. You can mark the chute with small cones or
tennis balls cut in half, with double markers for the point where you
start to brake. Be cautious at first, making your first run at no
faster than 18 mph. If you slide the rear tire at that speed, you need
to correct that problem before bumping your speed up.
Regardless of your experience level or the braking system on your
bike, you might be surprised at what you can learn from quick stop
practice. There is a big difference between slowing from 70 mph to 40,
and making a quick stop from 40 mph to O.
Do us both a favor and wear your best abrasion-resistant riding
gear-just in case you make a little boo-boo. I've seen more than a few
experienced riders who crashed while attempting a quick stop-typically
a result of an inflated image of their braking skills. Even if you
think you're very good at braking, I advise you to start slowly and
gradually work up to higher approach speeds as you demonstrate to
yourself that you have the techniques down. And if the mere thought of
practicing quick stops makes you break out in a cold sweat, I suggest
signing up for a training course where you can build skill under the
watchful eye of an instructor.
Rear Wheel Slides
Be ware that as you approach speeds increase, forward energy increases
and rear wheel traction decreases. If you skid the rare tire into a
slide out and then panic and release the pedal, the bike is very
likely to snap back to center and throw you off the 'high side.' To
avoid a high-side crash, you need to know if you're sliding the rear
tire, and that's not easy to detect from the saddle. I advise you to
find a riding partner who can take turns observing stops, and watch
for a skidding rear tire.
Front Wheel Skids
Front wheel skids result from grabbing the lever too quickly or
holding a death grip on the lever even as the tire begins to slide. An
impending front tire skid causes steering to feel light and
unresponsive. If steering suddenly feels funny under aggressive
braking, you should ease up slightly on the lever. If the front tire
suddenly begins to slide, ease off the brake to restore balance, then
squeeze again-only more smoothly this time.
$2,500 fronts $800 rear CMCeramic Matrix Composite disc...
Me? I've used them both since Ive been 6 including a ride this morning on my 1200 bandit.
It became clear on practically my first ride how the physics package worked.
Any "rider" that doenst get the front rear 70/30 ratio isnt really a " rider" but a guy riding a bike.
At some point we may see more single brake linked systems that can haul you down electronically, but my bikes are electronically naked.
I always use both when I'm riding on the street. I primarily use the rear brake for low speed maneuvering in a parking lot, for example.
Why just use the rear brake?, well maybe that's all you need to stop. Everytime I stop, I don't NEED 100% full braking power. If your on a road and notice the traffic light is red, 1 block ahead of you, and all you need to do is slow down slightly before the light changes, why not just use the rear brake ?. Most bikes today have interlocked brakes, so in reality you are using 1 of the front brakes when you apply the rear brake. It's always quicker to grab the front brake in an emergency situation, but not always needed.,,
I use both when stopping. I will use just the front when needing to reduce some speed but not coming to a stop The back brake it seems only provides like 25% o of the total brake power (just guessing here) so just using the rear is not wise.
Coming from racing offroad, you learn how brakes work. The front will stop you and the rear is used for turning.
There are all sorts of scenarios where it can be argued that one brake or the other does an adequate job in normal or low speed riding and there is nothing wrong with that, except using both as a matter of habit prepares you for that emergency when maximum braking is needed. If you don't practice the balance of front vs rear, are you going to perform as well as you should when that emergency need arises. There won't be time to think about the 70/30 rule. Actually I hesitate to quote any fixed percentage of front vs rear because those figures date from when bikes had drum brakes. Modern bikes have such powerful front brakes that's it probably nearer 85/15 these days.
I can't think of any other activity that I would expect to perform well at without having first practiced under safe and low speed conditions.
I can't think of any other activity that I would expect to perform well at without having first practiced under safe and low speed conditions.
Exactly!
I'm not a rear brake user myself but while watching Moto America King of the Baggers racing highlights from Road Atlanta over this past weekend they made mention that the rear rotors of those machines are the same size as a typical Supersport front brake rotor and they use them often around the track. It was also mentioned that those bikes weigh 620 lbs.
On all my scooters and even pedal bike the rear brake is always first and the front is half second behind. Slam on that front brake in gravel or unstable surface you'll regret that decision. And actually on the pedal bike I've went over the handlebars with to much front brake. Motorcycles is heavier so that's kinda mute point.
Bud_One
Site Donor 2022
Both of my bike are non-ABS .
I use both front and rear , but mostly rear for the majority of my stopping needs.
Most of my riding experience has been dirtbikes , offroad , hare scrambles and woods riding.
You don't use the front brake for much doing that type of riding , thus the habit of using my rear only.
But I do see the need for front brake bias when riding on the street.
I use both front and rear , but mostly rear for the majority of my stopping needs.
Most of my riding experience has been dirtbikes , offroad , hare scrambles and woods riding.
You don't use the front brake for much doing that type of riding , thus the habit of using my rear only.
But I do see the need for front brake bias when riding on the street.
Back in the day Mach III were one of the first "motors of death" from
Japan... My USAF buddy bought the first one available in San
Bernardino... He offered me a test hop but warned "WFO and you'll
feel pee running down your leg when it comes on the pipe"
I took it across the street and into a newly plowed field... I had it
screaming near red line in 1st gear... the rear tire spinning a giant
rooster tail of dirt... it would bogged down in the soft dirt...
sinking up to the cases... then pop up and plane on the hard dirt
picking up speed at a alarming rate... Using full power it would turn
carving a deep ditch with every pass... Around and around the triple
went tackling the dirt clods... the Kawie and I raised such a dust
cloud that commuters had trouble seeing the traffic lights...
Exhausted I quit... There were tumble weeds caught between pipes and
layers of fine dust every where I looked on the my buddies new street
bike... However he wasn't concerned... he was more amused someone
would actually dirt dog the beast...
Technically speaking every Rider uses ABS... either be it mechanical or
mental... so which type do you identify with???
Mechanical... An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is a system on
motorcycles which prevents the wheels from locking while braking. The
purpose of this is to allow the rider to maintain steering control
under heavy braking and, in some situations, to shorten braking
distances by allowing the rider to hit the brake fully without the
fear of skidding or loss of control. Disadvantages of the system
include increased braking distances under certain conditions and the
creation of a "false sense of security" among riders who do not
understand the operation and limitations of ABS or their bikes...
Cost $800 weight penalty 20lbs
Mental... An alert rider on a reasonable light weight motorcycle
equipped with the latest designed braking system and skilled in the
threshold braking technique... The purpose of this is to allow the
rider to maintain steering control under heavy braking and, in some
situations, to shorten braking distances by allowing the rider to
modulate the brakes fully without the fear of skidding or loss of
control... Disadvantages of the system include increased braking
distances under certain conditions and the creation of a "false sense
of security" among riders who push beyond their limits of mental
ABS...
Cost $0.0 weight penalty 0.0
If you aren't sure you can judge available traction, speed and distance, or
don't want to think about it that much, then rely on Mechanical ABS. but
if you wish to brake hard and still have some skin in the game then read
on...
Step 1
Sort your bike out... check tire pressures and condition, suspension
settings, brake condition, then find a smooth, straight, clean bit of road
without too much camber. Do a few runs braking fairly hard to warm the
tires and get a feel for how it handles. As you line up for your first hard
stop, you need to be relaxed... If you find yourself pitching forward, grip
the tank with your knees to hold your weight off the bars...
Step 2
The initial phase is important because how you first apply the brakes
determines how the bike reacts. Your brakes are not an on/off switch.
You're looking for a smooth initial application that transfers weight on to
the front tire without suddenly compressing the suspension. If you just
grab on the lever, the suspension bottoms out, and then it can't absorb
any more movement. Something has to give and it's usually the tire which
may begin to break traction... So be smooth and be firm... that's the key...
Step 3
Having transferred the weight onto the front tire, you've given yourself
bags of extra grip. To use it, you need to increase the pressure on the
lever progressively. On any modern Sportsbike and most all Standards you
should be able brake hard enough for the rear wheel to lift off the ground.
If it starts hopping that's because the engine is locking it up... clutch in or
slipped and it should stop...
This is hard as you can brake in normal conditions. At this point, the rear
brake's no use to you at all. This is not a stoppie, by the way, that's a
separate stunt...
Step 4
Once you're up to full braking effort, you still have to assess what's going
in you path. If you're about to cross a patch of oil or cross a patch of dirt,
you'll want to release the lever pressure slightly, then increase it again as
the extra risk is passed. You need to be relaxed enough so that if you feel
the wheel locking, you can let lever off until it spins again, then get back
up to braking pressure. The only way to make this an instinctive reaction is
to practice deliberately locking and releasing the brake... if you don't wish
to risk your prize then Keith Code has a special bike built just for you called
the Panic Brake Trainer...
Step 5
As you come almost to the point of stopping, you'll obviously need to
actuate the clutch lever in to avoid stalling you can do this as soon as you
start to brake, but why not use the engine braking for it will help you keep
control. Secondly, slightly slightly release the braking pressure at the very
last moment. This gives the suspension a chance to return to normal
otherwise you come to a halt, and the forks bounce up from full travel,
which can unbalance you as try to put your foot down and stop... mercy
you don't want to avoid an accident and then drop the bike like a
beginner...
mental... so which type do you identify with???
Mechanical... An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is a system on
motorcycles which prevents the wheels from locking while braking. The
purpose of this is to allow the rider to maintain steering control
under heavy braking and, in some situations, to shorten braking
distances by allowing the rider to hit the brake fully without the
fear of skidding or loss of control. Disadvantages of the system
include increased braking distances under certain conditions and the
creation of a "false sense of security" among riders who do not
understand the operation and limitations of ABS or their bikes...
Cost $800 weight penalty 20lbs
Mental... An alert rider on a reasonable light weight motorcycle
equipped with the latest designed braking system and skilled in the
threshold braking technique... The purpose of this is to allow the
rider to maintain steering control under heavy braking and, in some
situations, to shorten braking distances by allowing the rider to
modulate the brakes fully without the fear of skidding or loss of
control... Disadvantages of the system include increased braking
distances under certain conditions and the creation of a "false sense
of security" among riders who push beyond their limits of mental
ABS...
Cost $0.0 weight penalty 0.0
If you aren't sure you can judge available traction, speed and distance, or
don't want to think about it that much, then rely on Mechanical ABS. but
if you wish to brake hard and still have some skin in the game then read
on...
Step 1
Sort your bike out... check tire pressures and condition, suspension
settings, brake condition, then find a smooth, straight, clean bit of road
without too much camber. Do a few runs braking fairly hard to warm the
tires and get a feel for how it handles. As you line up for your first hard
stop, you need to be relaxed... If you find yourself pitching forward, grip
the tank with your knees to hold your weight off the bars...
Step 2
The initial phase is important because how you first apply the brakes
determines how the bike reacts. Your brakes are not an on/off switch.
You're looking for a smooth initial application that transfers weight on to
the front tire without suddenly compressing the suspension. If you just
grab on the lever, the suspension bottoms out, and then it can't absorb
any more movement. Something has to give and it's usually the tire which
may begin to break traction... So be smooth and be firm... that's the key...
Step 3
Having transferred the weight onto the front tire, you've given yourself
bags of extra grip. To use it, you need to increase the pressure on the
lever progressively. On any modern Sportsbike and most all Standards you
should be able brake hard enough for the rear wheel to lift off the ground.
If it starts hopping that's because the engine is locking it up... clutch in or
slipped and it should stop...
This is hard as you can brake in normal conditions. At this point, the rear
brake's no use to you at all. This is not a stoppie, by the way, that's a
separate stunt...
Step 4
Once you're up to full braking effort, you still have to assess what's going
in you path. If you're about to cross a patch of oil or cross a patch of dirt,
you'll want to release the lever pressure slightly, then increase it again as
the extra risk is passed. You need to be relaxed enough so that if you feel
the wheel locking, you can let lever off until it spins again, then get back
up to braking pressure. The only way to make this an instinctive reaction is
to practice deliberately locking and releasing the brake... if you don't wish
to risk your prize then Keith Code has a special bike built just for you called
the Panic Brake Trainer...
Step 5
As you come almost to the point of stopping, you'll obviously need to
actuate the clutch lever in to avoid stalling you can do this as soon as you
start to brake, but why not use the engine braking for it will help you keep
control. Secondly, slightly slightly release the braking pressure at the very
last moment. This gives the suspension a chance to return to normal
otherwise you come to a halt, and the forks bounce up from full travel,
which can unbalance you as try to put your foot down and stop... mercy
you don't want to avoid an accident and then drop the bike like a
beginner...
Last edited:
