Why are things for sale always freshly serviced?

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I have always told them what oil and fluid brands I put in the car. I'm a techie engineer and particular about my car maintenance.

That usually gets us right to price negotiation.
 
If you were going house shopping, would you care about the condition of the carpet, paint, appliances, etc? Most buyers would, so it's common for some work to be done on a house prior to putting it on the market.
 
Certified" pre-owned vehicle is just a way to jack the asking price up without really putting $$ into vehicles taken in on trade.
 
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Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey
Certified" pre-owned vehicle is just a way to jack the asking price up without really putting $$ into vehicles taken in on trade.
I thought CPO came with a warranty though. They do a pad slap, check the tires and paint, clean it real good, tack on a warranty, at least for Toyota.
 
Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey
Certified" pre-owned vehicle is just a way to jack the asking price up without really putting $$ into vehicles taken in on trade.


As a dealer tech, FAR from it.

When we do a CPO, all maintenance must be done up to date, brakes must be OE and above 50% wear, tires must be OE and above 50% wear. Car gets new OE wipers, air filter, cabin filter, oil change automatically. We used to even install new floor mats. We don't do too many CPO because often we loose 1000's on the deal.

Some [censored] lease returns where the owner did zero maintenance, put [censored] aftermarket brakes on it and brought it back with bald tires can cost $3-4000 to CPO.
 
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I buy brand new, never again a used, hard to track history of used cars including how many ownerships changed hands but service too. I only ue quality full synthetics and the new lower viscosities with better base stock/oils. The stuff I am using now is a 0w-20 with density that only rivals or pended by Redline10w-30 of that racing oil, what's it called. The boutique one that noone buys and is upended by Royal Purple in terms of legacy and lore.
 
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Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
The stuff I am using now is a 0w-20 with density that only rivals or pended by Redline10w-30 of that racing oil, what's it called.


Sorry, could you pleasa explain what you are saying here ?

Density...why are you focussing on that ?
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
The stuff I am using now is a 0w-20 with density that only rivals or pended by Redline10w-30 of that racing oil, what's it called.


Sorry, could you pleasa explain what you are saying here ?

Density...why are you focussing on that ?


it's a part of the correlation between kinematic and absolute viscosity
 
Of course it is...so how does the density of your oil being like that of Redline hold any sway over anything ?

0W20 is...a 20 grade...10W30 is...a 30 grade.

Which is a viscosity range in either case, both containing Kinematic AND absolute viscosity ranges/minimums...no densities in SAE J300.
 
Originally Posted By: ammolab
Serviced? Or claimed to be serviced!

You can always trust a used car salesman, right?


If they told the truth about the oil (which is the one thing the non-car guy buyer might check to try to pretend to be thorough), they must have kept up on the timing belt too, right?
 
It most likely has less VII than all other 0w20 oils since VII lowers density? This suggests a very high quality base stock, the 169 calculated VI might even be all natural without any VII. Is that even possible?

It's hard to imagine a thin 0w20 oil being denser than even a heavy 10w40 but this seems to be the case.

.89 density is pretty high. The only motor oil I know that is higher is Redline, which is .91. Density is an important characteristic because it affects the relationship between kinematic and dynamic viscosity: kinematic vis = dynamic vis / density.

Additionally, thermal conductivity and specific heat are affected by density. Higher density decreases both.
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Idemitsu has a density of 0.844, redline 0.89+

Not to mention, that if I recall correctly, formulators here have warned against trying to read too much into viscosity differences across grades and different basestocks.
 
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
It most likely has less VII than all other 0w20 oils since VII lowers density? This suggests a very high quality base stock, the 169 calculated VI might even be all natural without any VII. Is that even possible?


Where are you getting 0.89 for the Idemitsu 0W20 ?

0.844 on the data sheet.
 
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
It most likely has less VII than all other 0w20 oils since VII lowers density? This suggests a very high quality base stock, the 169 calculated VI might even be all natural without any VII. Is that even possible?


No

Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
It's hard to imagine a thin 0w20 oil being denser than even a heavy 10w40 but this seems to be the case.


See above, I can't imagine it having seen the data sheets.

Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
Density is an important characteristic because it affects the relationship between kinematic and dynamic viscosity: kinematic vis = dynamic vis / density.


It is the determiner of the relationship. One viscosity is "absolute", and discounts inertial effects, one uses it.

It's not some magic property that makes something better.

The viscosities are the viscosities, and determine the J300 grade...targetting high density does not make it effectively a different grade.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
"always" is a big word.


And people who focus on that one word, rather than the meaning of the post is why we have to preface everything we say these days with "not always, but"...
 
This stuff is just to primp up the ad. Personally, I put more stock into how a seller can show me the vehicles was maintained properly over the course of its lifespan...
 
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